I would give it a try. Dig out as far as possible and maybe if you think you really damaged the roots you can add some root hormone which is sold as a powder at many home improvement stores. Good luck and post its outcome.

Joss,

The roots on these don't go very far, if I remember correctly, so dig around and under the roots for best success, and use lots of padding/protection - the Pachypodium has sap that can be an irritant (it's related to Oleander) to a toxin.

I would think a 7' with no or few branches shouldn't be difficult.This is the perfect time-warm long days,no hot weather so far. The tricky part is,once replanted-do not over OR underwater. Under is safest even if you have to put up with some shriveled tips.

There was a behemouth P. lamerii posted a few months ago that was to be moved,I can only wonder how that went.

That one? Not so well....

{{gwi:466930}}

Thanks for your help everyone. I hope the comment on "no hot weather yet" doesn't play a large factor, because its 95 today and has been hot hot hot down here in South Florida for a long long time with high humidity. This particular one only has a fork on the top, each arm only being around 14"s maybe. Its going right back into a pre-dug hole, so I'll keep my fingers crossed. I'm going to truck it from side of the yard to another. Unfortunately it can't stay where its at any longer. Its in flower so I hope that doesn't play a role. Thanks again. Joss

I'd be very careful with watering, Joss. In fact, I think I'd wait about a week before watering.

If it were me, I would transplant it first into a large plastic pot with a very well drained mix. The plant + pot can be moved, protected and moisture control is better. I would drill a bunch of 1/2" holes all along the sides of the pot.

You can keep it warm, dry and shaded for a few weeks while the severed roots heal. You can then situate it into a sunnier spot and begin watering.

Then, after it has re-established and appears to be resuming growth, you can simply submerge the entire plant and the pot into its new home without any worries. New roots will grow right through the holes without skipping a beat.

If it ever needs to be moved again, you can dig out the pot and trim back the roots...and start all over again :-)

x

Thanks again to all. I want to post some information in case someone else ever needs to dig up a Madagascar palm. It was too late for me to use the last suggestion to place it into a pot first, I had already dug it up and moved it to its new spot and planted. Its original location was a shady spot underneath a group of coconut palms and its new spot is pretty much identical, but underneath veitchia palms. Its mostly strong indirect light with maybe some evening sun. Anyhow, cactusmcharris was right about its roots. They didn't go outward much at all, but had a nice thick root going straight down for about 2 feet or so. It had few roots going outward and only about a 1.5 foot diameter. I did cut through a side root unintentionally that was about 1/2" in diameter, but I'm not sure how far that root went out. In the future I would try to dig down as far as possible... I'm not sure if it snapped at the bottom or not. I had dug it at night time in dim light and didn't notice all the roots details. I had already dug its new hole so it was straight out of the ground and right back in. I wore heavy gloves and a jacket to avoid its tough thorns. Unfortunately we had a very severe thunderstorm here in the Miami and Fort Lauderdale area today with winds gusting near 70 miles an hour and a good 1 hours worth of heavy rain. The tree is still standing securely, but was obviously watered... that may not be ideal. I measured the tree this morning at 8 feet 2 inches with an 8 inch base. I hope it makes it. Thanks again, Joss

Warmth will be beneficial - keep the enzymatic activity sustained at a high level for a quick recovery.

Since the plant is already soaked I would consider a systemic fungicide like Daconil.

The biggest risk to the plant is rotting via introduction of a pathogenic fungus through the wounded roots. Keeping the roots dry permits the cuts to callous. Moisture promotes fungal activity.

Why didn't you situate the plant in full sun? They will have no problems with that...

Best of luck

X

Hi X, It just so happens to be our rainy season. I will wrap some plastic around the base of the plant like a Christmas tree skirt... only when its raining of course. I will weigh it down with rocks so the water doesn't leak in. I have some Physan 20 on hand which is another type of fungicide, I suppose it could help?? I hate to give it any more water though... any suggestions about whether it is best to water again with a fungicide or let it dry out first? I didn't plant in all day full sun because the location I chose was where I preferred it and it does well either way. It is getting a little more late afternoon sun than it was, probably the last 2 hours of sun at least as well as the bright indirect light the remainer of the day. If it were to decline, when would I start to notice it? Would the leaves go pretty quick or no way to tell? Thanks!! Joss

I have one by a window-it's over 3' with big dark Plumeria like leaves..My outdoors plants are more linear. SO,in a warm climate-hot- in summer i can see them doing well with great drainage.Too late-but you might have filled with perlite or pea gravel the first 6" around the plant..and under it also. If I lived in Florida,I might plant them all around my property they grow so well there and look both lush and deserty..not many plants have that combination.

joss

I don't think that wrapping plastic will do a good job of keeping the soil dry. Rain will still get through the cracks and will drip along the stem. But I guess it can't hurt to try.

That's a good question about whether you should add more water with a fungicide. I don't know what the "correct" answer is. Perhaps, just wait until right after the next rainy period as it will already be wet.

The good thing you have going for you is the heat. Recovery should be quicker and more likely.

If all goes well, you should see new leaves forming in maybe 4-6 weeks. If the roots rot, you might notice the leaf tips drying out or the leaves yellowing, and the base of the stem will get soft...also after 4-6 weeks or so.

If/ when you see new leaves forming, that is a very good sign.

Best of luck,
x

Well its raining again. I'm positive the plastic is allowing less water to get to the roots. I wrapped it around the trunk base nice and snug and its about 4 feet in diameter or so and held down with bricks. Even if some water gets to the area, it will be much less and dry that much faster. I'll wait a few more days at least and then water with the Physan 20. I wish I had thought of it when planting. I went to a plant sale a couple of weeks back at a private home and they were selling several rare and unusual plants. They had a Madagascar palm in a large pot about the same size as mine and she offered it to me for $125. It sounds like a lot of money, but you wouldn't have to wait years for it to mature. I noticed she still has it. Thanks again! Joss