Lucky you! all symptoms seem normal. u may want to visit exotica nursery in vista. they have a large variety of fruit trees and they even have fruit to sample of whatever is in season.

diana

You can also call the Master Gardener hotline at (858) 694-2860 with your questions. They can be very helpful.

Here is a link that might be useful: San Diego Horticultural Society

Thanks. I've been totally confused about seasons since I came out from the midAtlantic region. Back there, it is ready for heavy frost on the pumpkins and leaves to drop on most anything not evergreen.

Here I'm seeing my asiatic lilies come back from the dead, blooms on the citrus and azaleas, and small fruit on the asian pears. What a strange, wonderful climate.

I can only speak for the nectarines and peach trees as I had those in my old house.
Here's a general outline of their behavior in relation to the seasons. Again these are just for my trees that I have observed, some may be different.

October-November - leaves turn dark, some fallout.
December-January - All leaves gone, tree is dormant.
February - Flower buds emerge.
March - Flower show!
April - New leaf and stem buds emerge, fruits should be visible now.
May-June - growing season, fruits maturing.
July - Fruits are usually ripe by then.
August-September - tree continues to grow.

Its just a general outline and can vary depending on how soon or how late the climate changes for the year.

Those fruit trees that you listed all seem to be ones that need significant winter chilling hours. I'd check the chilling hour requirements of those particular variety of trees and see if they're compatible given the average chilling hours in your area. I tried to grow a pear tree and cherry tree in West Covina, Zone 9. The trees were a big disappointment. If you want a consistant bearing fruit tree in zone 10, make sure you have a low chilling hours variety. Persimmon, Fig, and Pomegranate, in general, are good deciduous Zone 10 fruit trees, among others. I'm sure you could get a lot of suggestions from the gardenweb. Good luck.

Thanks wetfeet101, I'm going to save that guideline in my reference file.

All of the fruit trees I put in are supposedly low chill, but last year we only had 223 hours of chill on our property, so some are borderline. Having a smaller crop is fine with us, in fact we planted 2 different varieties per hole to keep them on the smaller side and to extend the harvest.

We have an old Fuyu Persimmon that produces huge crops (350 lbs last year). If I let these new fruit trees get that big, I'll have to quit my job and open up a produce stand.