That's alright...skip it. I'll either cut the sagging limbs or dig it up and plant something else. 10' plus is a little tall to stake upright on weak branching.

I've lashed bamboo to the length of individual droopy limbs like that on other trees and after a year or 2 when the limbs strengthen, then you can take the boo off and they stay straight. May or may not be worth it- up to you. Just make sure to use something flexible (like pantyhose) to tie the stakes with or loosen it periodically so it doesn't strangle your branches. Boo works well since it's light but strong.

Decrease N increase P & K fertilizer.

Nancy the nancedar

Don't I run the risk of those branches staying in that position if I don't do something soon? Won't they be harder to straigthen back out? That particular branch is suppposed to be the leader, but has several other branches coming off of it that are fairly long also.

Bamboo? Never dealt with if before. Do you buy it in strips, is it pliable, etc?

Boo's pretty stiff, yet a little pliable (enough to bend with the wind)- and you can get it at most any garden center, as different sized poles. You just need them the length of the longest branch, and the 1/2" stuff will work fine. If you know someone or a vacant lot where boo grows, you can harvest some and trim it and use that. For what you have it wouldn't cost that much, though. I know logan's carries it. I attached mine with velcro ties, and occasionally twisties where necessary. I don't know if they'll straighten on the kwanzaan on their own- beyond my ken. If you do nothing else, i'd straighten your leader and the others may follow suit. You can also trim a little from the ends, that will decrease the weight and help them straighten. I did it with an asian pear and asian persimmon- they needed support because they had fruit on them, as well as the branch weight and it worked really well. I knew if i didn't help them, they'd end up bent permanently for sure with the fruit weight holding them down. I left the boo on for 2 years.

Thanks Tammy. Did the bamboo remain intact through storms and such? I'm gonna have to get a pole close to or better than 10' when stuck in the ground to hold them, but the leader I'm gonna have to stake I think...it's pretty rigid and strongly resisting being pulled back. I may have to trim some off the top too, but I sure don't want to...beyond reading about pruning I know nothing and I'll probably gurantee a slice and dice job. Hope not.

Maybe i didn't explain it right. You're right, you will need a long one for your leader- fasten it down as far along the stem as you can, as that will offer some extra stiffness. I'd do at least 6 points along the stem & leader. You probably will need to stake & tie off the stem/leader, too- i had to with the persimmon. But the side branches, you aren't sinking in the ground and propping- you're attaching them as splints right along the branches, forcing then in the direction you want them to grow. That's why lightweight is important, since if they were heavy, they'd just weigh your branches down more. I found it helped if there was enough extra at the end of where the branch met the tree to overlap the trunk by several inches to sort of counter weight the length along the branch. You could, even literally hang a weight there if you needed to keep it as upright as you want if adding the splint made it droop worse. It won't look terribly pretty when you're done- like a cone of spikes under the branches along the trunks- but it does work. You want to attach the splint at at least 3 spots along the branch, one close to the end, one near the trunk and one in the middle. To answer your question, yes- it came through storms just fine. I did very little to it during those 2 years but check to make sure nothing was getting strangled by the twisties. Sometimes bugs can build up under wraps and velcro ties (especially to overwinter), so it isn't a bad idea to check a couple times a year. If this is still murky, email me and i'll sketch what i mean and send it along. I'm a visual person and it's hard for me to express in words what i'm trying to say. Or, you'd be welcome to stop by and i can show you. I'm in garner.

Tammy - thanks for the further explanation. Yes, I think I do see what you mean, and I can visualize the overlap as a anchoring device and that should work, but wouldn't that tend to scratch or cut into the trunk or other branches (not trying to be difficult here)? I have single-staked the JM's I have an also a small pink dogwood for a year for support, so I'm somewhat familiar with the principle. I've just never had the complete tree lay down on me like this and not spring back up. Dang thing looks like a big "chicken" sculptured out of leaves.

Funny visual, Jim!!

I really think that once your trunk is staked (and you can look up the proper way to stake a trunk w/padding and multiple anchor points so it can still move, etc online), that few of the branches will need help. Straightening out the leader will likely do more than you think.

No, i never noticed any scratching up of the trunk and/or branches. If that was a worry, you could pad any spots you were concerned about with old panty hose or something else (tree wrap, horse leg wrap, anything relatively soft). If the overlap goes along another branch you can actually use that to further anchor that branch- i did that in a couple instances and it helped with stability. Most of them will probably fall in between other branches, though. With the thinner boo, it's very smooth and not scratchy. If you harvest some of your own, you'll have the nubs where the leaves come out to contend with, since they are hard to trim completely flush (clippers leave a 1/4" nub). Not sure how they do it with the commercial stuff. I just use those nubs as convenient anchor points, and make sure they aren't rubbing on anything. They grow out on opposite sides, alternating down the stem about every foot or 2. As i said, if you buy boo, those will be ground or cut off, so no worries there.

Could I stake the leader branch, reinforce some other branches like you said, and maybe trim off some of the heavier weight at some of the branch ends? Not really sure how to do that other than just take about 6" off the ends where the weight exists. I think there will be extra growth at those ends that would need to be snipped also, from what I read. Those branches are just too weak, and I'm pretty sure it's my fault through the fertilizing process of my lawn. I completely forgot the effect that would have on those young trees and probably got them growing too fast.

Well, I made an attempt to prop the tree back up yesterday. A little more difficult than I thought it would be. That leader and all the other branches wanted to stay right where they were. I had to use 2 extra long 8' stakes and a double strapped rope stake-down to get it to stand back up. Actually had to move the whole trunk back a couple of inches. Had to lop off 2 long branches unfortuantely, or I would have never got it back in position. Also had to attach another bamboo-like pole to raise up the leader top. The poor tree looks pitiful.

I was up on the top rung of a 6' ladder and I'm a good 6' and the top was a good 2-3' higher than I was. I know there are unwritten rules about snipping off the top of the leader, but I may have to do something if this thing doesnt want to stay erect. ONe guy said to cut all the leaning over branches until they stand up by themselves and then keep pruning the 4-5 stubs tha gorw back in those places. NOt sure what all of that is gonna do except to strengthen the lower branches, but what is the top part gonna look like when it starts to grow out?!?

Your prior post is exactly what i was thinking. Sounds like you're doing what you need to. I've pushed and shoved around the leaders/tops of trunks by feet before- it helps to have somebody else shoving while you're securing. Any time you're moving it far, make sure to pad well the area that the wire or strap goes around the trunk or it will chafe and cut it in the wind. Old water hose, panty hose, anything that's sturdy and won't break down quickly.

I wouldn't do what the other guy suggested or you're liable to have to fight to get a nice form back later. It's hard to erase or outgrow evidence of cutting things down to stubs. You'd want to pick one of the resulting sprouts to replace the leader and branches and prune the rest out for a few years, but it's a lot of work. He's right- it would strengthen them, but at a price. You are fine snipping the leader at 12' if that's where you want the height to end up. If not, select a new one from the new growth like i explained above, and allow that one to grow and no other. The closer to the end of the leader your cut was the less crazy the new sprouts will be energy wise and in number. Hopefully it'll come out slower and straighter. You can pick a sprout on the opposite side of the lean to compensate, too. When you prune when something is in full leaf it tends to zap some of the energy and slow it down, rather than encouraging it to grow like if you dormant prune.

Do watch the fertilizer from now on. The grass will be fine without it, and the cherry will thank you. You can always spread a higher p &k fert around for the tree and let the grass have that, too. Would make it more drought tolerant by helping the roots. Perhaps not as green and fast growing, but then you'd just have to mow less, right?

The do look sad for a while- like someone in a body cast, but it'll all work out ok.

Thanks Tammy. You seem to be more aware of my tree situation and remedial steps back thenthe pros.
I'm sure some arborists would have hissy if they saw what I've done, but how can I call in an arborist when no two of them will call for the same restoration steps. I've talked to a couple already, and one suggested not fertilizing that close again and widening the mulch ring. Well hell, I know that...I wanted expert opinion on what I'm doing to restore the tree back, and I get this crap of what I should have done. ARRRGGHHHH!!!! Makes me a bit frustrated with these so-called experts. Not all of them are like that, I know, but...

Well, I'm no expert- I know just what i've learned by dealing with my situations and what i'm doing or have done to correct them with as as little damage to the tree as possible. I'm sure the experts would say i'm fulla blinkety blank. *shrug* Whatever works for you!

Yep. I just know I'm gonna put these trees at risk by not knowing a dadgum thing. I've been trying to learn, but there sure seems to be conflicting ways of handling these problems.

BTW, that wasn't pointed at you. Just venting. I appreciate all your help.

How much sun is your Kwansan cherry getting? It looks a little sun challenged.

Nope. It's getting full sun from morning to night. I just took the pic at a later time of day. I've been told there's a lot of trees this spring that have had a heavier than usual blooming period. I know mine has, but I don't know about others.

You'll learn through experience Jim. Thing is, there's always more to learn! :)

The tree is young but as it ages will take on a rounded shape. It's ok that it is flopping over. Leave it alone. It will be fine as it ages. It's all part of how a tree widens.

Are you sure the branches come back up?!? I've never quite seen anything like this before. At least not all or most of the branches flopping over.

It will be fine. Some of the branches will thicken into graceful main branches while others will sprout from those branches and grow up. Personally I prefer the shape of trees
that have curves to the branches instead of stiff upright branches.

Well, I had the arborist over to look at the cherry trees and the rest of them also, and he wants to wrap them up instead of trimming them. He said we can always do that later, but wrapping them may strengthen enough to support themselves (good input Tammy). Apparently not a tight wrap (haven't done it before), but a firm wrap with a manila-type wrap to get the vase-shape back and maybe even tieing a guy rope to it. We'll see.

He also said the new Redbud (Appalachian Red) I had put in has to be replaced...partially dead trunk problem. Go figure. Will have to wait until fall for that though.