Wanderbug - Yes, surprisingly little blackberry in general. The grass from front walk to junipers (love the VW comment!) is 10'. Your photos are handsome so will keep them in mind for the future. Suspect they will first be concentrating on creating a "lounging" space in the back and just try to get planting areas in front figured out for now. The new patio in backyard will be 20' by 27' approx., centering on the window in back which is kitchen eating area inside. Don't know they've given much thought to WHAT to do in design of it. They were able to include a new patio in their financing since the existing patio, after 50 years, was slightly sinking toward the house. The new patio will be a cement product...perhaps just laid in a large squares pattern. Such a large area has to have "segments"...don't know what that would be called...joints? Just enough pattern to keep it from cracking but not enough get into realm of "fancy" or expensive. What do people think? Plain brushed cement or aggregate? Not sure what the style is now when one is doing contemporary patios. I suggested down the road they could eventually do some rectangular, raised planters (could clad them in horizontal, stained slats), maybe incorporating some clean-lined benches (daughter-in-law has mentioned she likes that look) thus tying the back in with any privacy fencing they might put in near front door. Plants in pots will have to do for time being on new back patio. When we rent the trencher for the sprinkler system, we'll be laying in a French drain at the base of the ivy slope in back to help divert water from the house to the sides of the property. Any hints on constructing French drains? The drain pipes on the back of the house were missing! So once those get repaired and some additional drainage put in, I think the water won't be such an issue. The house is located right between a "moderate" to "low" earthquake hazard area so that's hopeful. I purposefully steered them away from houses built in what I call "jello" areas. We also suggested they run a pipe under the new patio as a holding space out toward the ivy slope in case they eventually want to have a gas BBQ or fireplace out there. The Douglas Firs begin immediately at the property line and fill the neighbors property of about 1/2 acre so the needles are definitely acidifying the soil. But, except in tight-squeeze suburbia where all trees have been removed to provide a blank slate, it's hard to get away from their effect here in NW, as you know. But it keeps the rhoddies, azaleas, etc. happy so you just have to amend for other items. Both front and back lawns have quite a bit of moss. Anyone know of a grass that does better in shade? We'll treat for the moss then thought we might over seed, adding a grass more shade tolerant...is there one? I know lawns are going out of style but for now and in the homeowners' stage of life, I think both expansive lawn areas are here to stay for a while. KatherineD - I've always torn out the blue violets that have sprouted in my yard...just seemed they had the potential to be such a nuisance. But now one has entered my yard that has a larger bloom and is more of a pink blossom...it looks like an actual plant rather than a weed with a tiny blossom. I can see how you like them - especially in that picture with the large drift of them. After the cement blocks to the side of the driveway and lava rock (ick!) at the bottom of the juniper bed get power-washed, I hope the creeping phlox (blue-ish lavender color) cascading over them will look good. Also thought some wooly thyme mixed in will add color at another time of the year. Thought we might come up with some dark red plants to mix in front juniper bed to tie lava rock in...maybe heuchera? Any thoughts of something low maintenance? Other than the blossoms that shoot up from huechera that eventually should be cut back, the foliage is low maintenance.

It looks to me as if there is a great deal of planting going on near the house. I would tend to make that much simpler and then connect the beds that are to the right and across the front to provides a sense of privacy and scale. I would also expand the planting bed to the left of the driveway for symmetrical purposes. While the larger tree just to the right of the driveway is gaining some size It is in exactly the wrong place. If it could move as much as five or six feet to the left it would allow for a more inviting view of your front door and more or less frame your view. It seems you have a tapering grade from the planting beds to the curb line I would consider replacing the grass with a lush ground cover. Less mowing and more lovely green. While a agree that creating a sense of balance for the garage would be nice I do not believe a cupola is the way to do it. I believe it would create a bit of a visual distraction.

Not all azaleas are susceptible to deer damage, but some are like chocolate to them. Here is a list of plants which includes some varieties of azaleas that deer do not like. I live on acreage near woods so we have deer, coyotes, bob cats, beaver, eagles, etc. Check with your local extension center or talk with a Master Gardener familiar with your area for the best plants. They will provide this information for free! Here are a list of shrubs that are deer resistant. Aesculus parviflora (Bottlebrush Buckeye): Stately specimen that forms a spreading, mounded shrub with tall, pyramidal spikes to white flowers in July. Shade tolerant. Grows to 8 to 10 ft. Aronia arbutifolia ‘Brilliantissima’ (Brilliant Red Chokeberry): Grows to 6 or 8 ft. in height. Has abundant white flowers in spring followed by clusters of red fruit in the fall. Foliage is lustrous green, turning brilliant red in fall. Excellent for border or massing. Betula platyphylla japonica ‘Whitespire’ (Whitespire Birch): Narrow pyramidal white-barked birch that is tolerant of high temperatures and resistant to the bronze birch borer. Grows 30 to 40 ft. Bark does not exfoliate. Buxus ‘Green Mountain’ (Green Mountain Boxwood): Evergreen shrub; upright, 5 ft. high and 3 ft. wide; exceptionally winter hardy; full sun; will not tolerate poor drainage or clay soils. Carpinus betulus ‘Fastigiata’ (Pyramidal European Hornbeam): Deciduous tree; mature height of over 35 feet; very dense, compact, upright branching; will eventually be rounded at the base to 20 ft wide, narrrowing to a rounded point at the top; produces a small 1/4 in. green-brown nut; dark green foliage spring through summer, turning yellow and orange in fall; disease free; drought tolerant; grows easily in sun or partial shade; pH 6.0 to 7.5. Chionanthus virginicus (White Fringe Tree): Deciduous shrub or small tree; height of 15 to 20 ft. with equal spread; attractive specimen or planted in mass in the shrub border; open, rounded form with fragrant white flowers on 6 to 8 in. panicles in late spring; dark blue fruits in August and September, attractive to birds; full sun; prefers deep, moist, acidic soil but is extremely adaptable; tolerant of urban conditions. Clethra alnifolia (Summersweet) Clethra alnifolia (Summersweet): Deciduous shrub; 6 to 8 ft. height with 4 to 6 ft. spread; good for summer flowers in the shrub border; compact, dense form; upright panicles of fragrant white flowers in July and August; grows well in sun or shade; grows naturally in wet soil; salt tolerant. Cornus florida (White Flowering Dogwood): Popular tree growing to 30 ft., rounded shape with early spring flowers, striking wine-red fall foliage. Cornus kousa chinensis (Chinese Dogwood): Outstanding deciduous ornamental tree; grows to 20 ft. high and 15 to 20 ft. in width; broad vase-like shape; abundant, long lasting white blooms in June after the plant has leafed out, followed by a heavy crop of large, attractive, strawberry-like fruits loved by birds. Cotinus obovatus (American Smoketree): Intense fall colors of yellow, orange, red, and reddish-purple. Attractive gray-brown bark becomes scaly with maturity. Grows to 20 to 30 ft. Cotoneaster apiculata (Cranberry Cotoneaster): Low growing (3 ft.)shrub with stiff branching pattern. Effective as bank cover, near walls, ground cover, or as a foundation plant. Large red berries persist all winter. Crataegus viridis ‘Winter King’ (Winter King Hawthorn): Deciduous tree; height of 25 ft. with 20 to 25 ft. spread; ornamental tree ideally suited to the smaller landscape; good for naturalized plantings; rounded habit with vase-shaped branching structure; showy grey stems with lustrous green foliage changing to bronze, red and gold in the fall; white flowers in the spring; large bright red fruit persisting into winter; full sun, tolerant of many soils if given sufficient moisture; has sharp thorns. Diervilla lonicera (Bronzeleaf Honeysuckle): A speading shrub, excellent for mass planting and banks. Small yellow flowers bloom in June and July. Foliage turns reddish-bronze in autmn. Insect and disease resistant. Tolerates dry, sandy soils. Sun or partial shade. pH 6.0 to 7.5. Forsythia x intermediata ‘Lynwood Gold’ (Lynwood Gold Forysythia): Fast growing, erect shrub with deep golden-yellow flowers in spring. Grows to 7 feet with equal spread. Tolerant to urban conditions, sun or shade. Fothergilla gardenii (Dwarf Fothergilla): Deciduous shrub; fragrant, white, bottlebrush-like flower spikes in spring before leaves appear; dark green summer foliage followed by good multi-colored fall foliage; plant in sun or partial shade; non-alkaline soil; hardy; excellent for foundation plantings, borders or masses. Fraxinus pennsylvanica ‘Patmore’ (Patmore Ash): Extremely hardy and tolerant of a wide range of growing conditions. Erect growth habit with glossy leaves. Grows 50 to 60 ft. with a 40 to 50 ft. spread. Seedless variety. Gleditsia (Honeylocust): Useful as street or shade tree. Most varieties grow 35 to 45 ft. Hamamelis vernalis (Vernal Witch Hazel): Deciduous shrub; grows 10 ft. in height with equal spread; flowers are yellow to red and begin blooming in February; can be used as specimens, screens and/or hedges; will grow in sun or shade; prefers soil with plenty of organic matter and moisture; pH 6.0 to 7.5. Ilex verticillata (Winterberry): Deciduous holly; 6 to 8 ft. spread; excellent effect in mass plantings or shrub borders; bright red fruits persist as long as not eaten by birds. Native to swampy places, but does well in light to medium moist loam. Both sexes needed for pollination. Sun or partial shade. Itea virginica (Virginia Sweetspire): Small, erect-branched shrub produces fragrant upright flower racemes in June and July. Foliage turns scarlet and crimson in the fall. Sun or partial shade. pH 5.0 to 7.0. Juniperus chinensis 'Hooks' (Hook's Juniper): Evergreen shrub; height of 12-15 ft. with a spread of 2-3 ft; good for specimen or narrow hedge; upright pyramidal shape; green foliage requires little or no shearing to maintain form; prefers average soils in sunny locations. Juniperus chinensis 'Sea Green' (Sea Green Juniper): Evergreen shrub; height of 3 ft. with a spread of 5 to 6 ft; excellent mint-green foliage with arching branches create a low, fountainlike effect. Moist soils are acceptable as long as they are well drained. Optimum growth occurs in sun with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Kerria Japonica (Japanese Kerria) Kerria Japonica (Japanese Kerria): Grows 4 to 5 ft. Single, golden-yellow flowers in spring. Bright green stems all year. Tolerates shade well. Ligustrum obtusifolium regelianum (Regal Privet): Low, dense spreading shrub with a rounded shape. Grows 5 to 6 ft. Has a white flower and a black berry-type fruit. Valuable for growing in poor conditions but prefers dryers sites. Can tolerate severe pruning. Sun or partial shade, pH 6.0 to 7.5. Lindear benzoin (Spice Bush): Dense growing native shrub with small yellow flowers in April, followed by glossy red frutis. Foliage and twigs have a spicy fragrance. Sun or shade, pH 6.0 to 7.5. Liquidambar styaciflua (Sweet Gum): Large conical shaded tree, growing to 60 ft. Star-shaped foliage turns brilliant fall colors. Has corky bark. Lonicera fragrantissma (Winter Honeysuckle): Semi-evergreen shrub with rounded leaves growing 6 to 8 feet in height with equal spread. Highly fragrant white flowers in April. Lonicera xylosteum ‘Emerald Mound’ (Emerald Mound Honeysuckle): Deciduous shrub; 3 to 4 ft. in height with similar spread; effective in massed plantings or as a low hedge; compact, mounded form with dense, attractive bluish-green foliage; yellowish-white flowers in the spring with dark red berries in July and August; resistant to Honeysuckle aphid; sun or partial shade; prefers good, loamy, moist, well-drained soil but will adapt to many types. Lonicera x brownii ‘Dropmore Scarlet’ (Dropmore Scarlet Honeysuckle): Considered the hardiest honeysuckle vine. Bright orange-scarlet tubular flowers from June to October. Magnolia x ‘Betty’ (Betty Magnolia): Deciduous shrub or small tree; 10 ft. height with 8 ft. spread; attractive accent for the smaller landscape or garden; upright, rounded form; large purple-red flowers with white interior open prior to the glossy green foliage; sun or partial shade; prefers loamy, moist, well-drained, acidic soil. Magnolia x ‘Susan (Susan Magnolia): Compact, upright shrub or small tree; 8 to 10 ft. in height with an 8 ft. spread. Long slender red-purple buds open to 5 in. wide flowers in late spring. Magnolia x loebneri ‘Leonard Messel’ (Leonard Messel Magnolia): Shrub or small tree grows 20 to 25 ft., showy 12 petaled flowers are fuchsia pink on the back and white on the inside with a purple-pink line in the center. Myrica Pensylvanica: (Northern Bayberry): Upright, rounded shrub with decorative gray berries (on female only) well into winter. Prefers well drained, sun or partial shade, pH 5.0 to 6.5. Foliage turns deep red in the fall. Nyssa sylvatica (Black or Sour Gum): Pyramidal tree growing to 50 ft. with a 20 to 30 ft. spread. Glossy, leathery leaves that turn intense shades of orange and red in fall. Sun or partial shade. Oxydendron arboreum (Sourwood or Sorrel Tree): Pyramidal, multi-stemmed or low branched habit with white lily-of-the-valley type flowers in July or August, forming prominent seeds which turn vivid scarlet in fall. Excellent specimen grows to 25 ft. Picea pungens glauca (Colorado Blue Spruce): Conical evergreen tree with blue color. Grows to 60 ft. Picea pungens glauca ‘Globosa’ (Globe Blue Spruce): Dwarf form of Blue Spruce, flat-topped and compact in youth, becoming pyramidal with age. Slow growing, height 3 ft. and spread of 4 to 5 ft. Silvery blue color. Picea omerika (Serbian Spruce): Narrow, conical evergreen grows 50 to 60 ft. in height. Its needles are glossy dark green with white stomatic lines underneath. Useful as a specimen or in groups. Pinus densiflora ‘Umbraculifera’ (Tanyosho or Table Top Pine): Compact dwarf tree with a flat top and rounded head. Slow growing to 9 to 10 ft. with a spread of 12 to 15 ft. Unique habit makes this a facinating plant, even for a small garden. Pinus flexilis (Limber Pine): Evergreen tree; 30-50 ft tall; 15-35 ft. wide; dark green needles about 3 in. long; cones 3-6 in. long; full sun or partial shade; adapts to many conditions; slow grower. Pinus mugo (Mugo Pine): Hardy and rugged, dwarf, mushroom-shaped evergreen shrub. Grows 2 to 6 ft. in height with a spread of 6 to 8 ft. Green foliage, 1 in. cones. Pinus nigra (Austrian Pine): Large pyramidal evergreen conifer grows 50 to 60 ft. with a spread of 40 ft. Best for backyard gardens and screens. Quercus bicolor (Swamp White Oak): Good native tree that grows to 50 or 60 ft. Has a broad, rounded head and distincitve light brown flaky bark. Easily transplanted and will grow in poor, drained soils as well as upland sites. Rhododendron ‘P.J.M.’ (P.J.M. Hybrid Rhododendron): Broadleaf evergreen shrub; 3 to 6 ft; rounded shape; variable lavender-pink flowers mid to late April; thumb-sized leaves, dark green in summer and plum-purple in fall; full sun or partial shade; acidic soil. Rhododendron ‘Purple Gem’ (Purple Gem Rhododendron): Low compact and slow growing cultivar with purple-blue flowers that bloom in early spring. Small dark blue foliage turns red-purple in fall. Grows 3 ft. with equal spread. Rhus aromatica ‘Gro-Low’ (Gro-Low Fragrant Sumac): Low growing, spreading habit (to 2 ft. with 6 to 8 ft. spread) makes this an excellent plant for mass plantings and bank control. Small aromatic flowers bloom in the spring and are followed by large, hairy, red fruits in the summer. Prefers dry, well-drained soil in sun or partial shade. Ribes alpinum ‘Green Mound’ (Green Mound Currant): Dense growing shrub, perfect for a low hedge. Foliage turns golden-yellow in fall. Sun or shade. Grows 2 to 3 ft. in height with an equal spread. Rosa rugosa (Rugosa Rose) Fragrant flowers June through September, vary in color from white to pink to red. Its dark green foliage is disease resistant and salt tolerant. Stephanadra incisa ‘Crispa’ (Cutleaf Stephanandra): Rapid growing, low spreading shrub with very dense branches covered with deeply cut, fine textured leaves. Excellent for low hedge, ground cover or hillside planting. Nice for trailing over walls. Best in shade. Syringa vulgaris (Common Lilac): Deciduous shrub grows 12 to 15 ft. in height, has delicate, fragrant, purple flowers in May. Makes a good informal hedge or screen. Prefers sun. Ulmus parvifolia (Chinese Elm): Deciduous tree; excellent, fast growing, durable; disease and insect resistant; drought tolerant; grows to height of 45 ft. and a spread of 25 ft.; foliage is dark, lustrous green turning to shades of gray, green, orange and brown; useful as street trees and in large areas and parks; hardy to Zone 5. Viburnum x ‘Chenaultii’ (Chenault Viburnum): Shrub with dense branching habit and small dark green glossy leaves, grows to 8 ft. Pink to white flowers in late April or early May. Viburnum x rhytidophylloides ‘Alleghany’ (Alleghany Viburnum): Semi-evergreen shrub; USDA hybrid introduction; dark green leathery foliage; resistant to leafspot; creamy-white flowers in May, followed by brilliant fruit in August that matures to black in late September, early October; plants grow to a height of 12 ft. with a width of 10 ft.; berries attract wintering birds. Viburnum dentatum (Arrowwood Viburnum): Valued for its durability and utility. Makes a good hedge, grouping or filler in a shrub border. Very adaptable, grows 6 to 8 ft. in height. Perennials/Ground Covers: Allium (Ornamental Onion): Relative of the onion, useful in border or rock garden and as edging plant. Best in full sun. Foliage dies back during and after blooming. Aquilegia (Columbine): Perennial with distinctive mounds of airy, fan-like leaves contrast with pastel flowers. Best to keep moist in well-drained, rich soils. Its dainty, multi-spurred blossoms attract hummingbirds in spring and early summer. Astilbe ‘Rheinland’ (Rheinland False Spirea): Early summer-flowering perennial that thrives in shaded, moist conditions. Pink flower clusters rise in fluffy plumes over mounded green foliage. Leucanthemum x superbum (Shasta Daisy): Free-flowering perennial growing 24 to 30 inches. White flowers are single or double. Foliage is deep green, and coarsely toothed. Best in full sun and well-drained soil. Galium odoratum (Sweet Woodruff): Perennial with fragrant, small white flowers in May and fine textured foliage. Excellent ground cover . Partial shade to full sun. Helleborus orientalis (Lenten Rose): Perennial with attractive evergreen foliage. Blooms in late winter and early spring in colors ranging from cream to rich dusty rose, often with a hint of green. Superb plant for the shady garden. Hyacinthus orientalis (Hyacinth) Hyacinthus orientalis (Hyacinth): Spring blooming bulb with highly fragrant blooms. Color varies depending on cultivar chosen. Prefers full sun and fertile garden soil. Narcissus (Daffodil): Early to mid-spring blooming bulb. Height 6 to 24 in. depending on selection. Distictive trumpet shaped flowers vary in color, depending on selection. Pachysandra terminalis ‘Green Carpet’ (Green Carpet Pachysandra): Evergreen ground cover; dark green, glossy leaves hold color in sun; part shade preferred; 6 in. high; small white flowers in May. Having been through the program, your local extension center can provide a wealth of information including the best way to plant. On the other end of the spectrum having learned how - I have never lost an azalea I have planted or supervised the planting of.

My daughter and I are passionate gardeners and it was a gut-wrenching decision (not to mention the $3,000 we had not counted on when we moved into this new home) to remove two very large trees. We consulted a licensed arborist who told us it was not a question of "if", but "when" they would fall, either on our home our the neighbor's. They were the wrong species in the wrong place. Do your homework on arborists and tree removal companies (ours has 91 five-star reviews) and don't beat yourself up because you have to deal with a problem you inherited :)