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ebbykay

Why won't a mature blood orange tree bloom?

19 years ago

I consider it mature, it has been in the ground for about 6 or 7 years. It was in bloom when we bought it, but has failed to bloom again. At first my husband would fertilize it in the spring for several years and nothing. Then for the past few years, he quit fertilizing it. Still nothing. It gets lots of sunshine.

He wants to do away with it, but I protest and say that at least the butterflys get to lay their eggs on it.

Comments (26)

  • 19 years ago

    Wrong fertilizer. You need a fert. that is low in N and higher in P & K. Typically a fert. advertised for flowering plants. Apply in winter just before the rains or if no rain slow drip the fertilizer into the plant.

    By the way if that citrus tree in the lawn remove the grass out past the drip line of the tree. Lawns are death on plants as it consumes water and ferilizers before it gets to the tree. Keep the soil covered with small bark mulch and the soil just moist. Trust me on this (: one.

  • 19 years ago

    Thanks Rose, I'll tell my husband what you said. I had already read that today about the grass, but will make sure he listens this time.

  • 19 years ago

    Does your blood orange tree show signs of growth each year, new branches, leaves...is it getting larger every year? Using citrus/avocado fertilizer would definitely help it, and I agree that fertilizing for blooms might be called for here...it's unnatural that there would be no blooms on this tree for 6 years. Is someone pruning this tree?

    You didn't say what kind of blood orange you have, but tell your husband that the Tarocco blood orange tree I had produced the best tasting oranges I've ever eaten. Well worth waiting for.

    jc

  • 7 years ago

    Adele

    I have 5 citrus trees, all produce but the tarocco blood orange tree will not bud or produce fruit. It has been in the ground for about 7 years or longer and is at least 7 ft in height. Beautiful tree but no fruit. I ferllilize with Microlife citrus fertilizer from where i bought the tree. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    I am wondering if this past few colder than normal winters in Texas may be effecting production?

  • 7 years ago

    Well, 16 years after the start of this thread, I'm wondering if either of these non-blooming trees are mislabeled and might be seedling trees. Is there a bud graft on the lower part of the trunk, are there a lot of thorns on the branches? Lots of thorns and no bud graft would indicate a seedling...although seedling trees do bloom, they just take longer to do so and don't usually produce good fruit.

  • 7 years ago

    LOL! It was not quite 16 years ago...probably more like 10-12....that I planted a moro blood orange. I'm getting fruit for the first time this year. I got one or two oranges off of it the first year I planted it, it froze to the ground one year, bloomed last year, and now I have 31 fruit on it this year. I don't know what the root stock is but it was a nursery tree and was probably grafted.We shall see if the fruit are moro. It's certainly not tri-foliate.

  • 6 years ago

    I have 17 different varieties of citrus. My Washington Navel is always loaded with blooms, my Cara Cara which is half the size of my Moro is loaded with blossoms and my Moro has lots of new growth looks so healthy but doesn't have a single blossom.


    If I do not get any blossoms by the end of this month I'm going to take it out of the ground and put it into a container because my ground is valuable real estate and I want something in the ground that will be very productive. I would just swap it out with one of my 11 mandarin varieties that are in containers.


    It is very frustrating to have a tree with no fruit and I don't have the time or patience for them lol.


    I will be making similar decisions this season with some of my avocado trees as well( 10 varieties). The ones that do not produce this year will be going to a new home to make room for something that will produce.

  • 6 years ago

    Amen bro Amen

  • 6 years ago

    Keep the sucker stressed out for a while, don’t feed it, water only when dry. Give it a Low Biuret treatment. You’ll get flowers up the ying yang!

  • 6 years ago

    I’ve heard that moros take a while to bloom but I have a few trees where I’m losing my patience too! Hang in there!

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    5 year old moro froze back 2 years ago it finally bloomed since the 2nd year, only the lower 4ft bloomed looks like a may get around 30-40 if they stay!


  • 6 years ago

    Thank you all for the comments. This tree is at least 120 years old have had no fruit production or only 2 or 3 oranges since planted. What is a Low Bluret treatment?


  • 6 years ago

    Adele, low biuret is a forum of urea powder that you can buy at Amazon. Mix 100gram per gl of clean water. You need to spray your tree a month or more before expected bloom, as your first spray, second spray right after fruit drop and retain fruits. third spray the end of July to make larger fruits. You be surprised how well this work.

  • 6 years ago

    Bob Thanks a million. It is probably to late to expect any bloom this year as the other citrus have bloomed. In fact the Meyers that bloomed the most has no fruit, surprisingly. But I can try to spray all the citrus now to see if that makes any difference. Correction to my comment is that the one Moro is at least 12 years old and have not had more than 1 or 2 oranges in that 12 years. I live in a 9A Zone and should not have any problems, but who knows what kind of graft I got even though i bought it from a reputable garden center in Houston.

  • 6 years ago

    Bob I just checked Amazon but could not find anything other than Scott's lawn food when I put low biuret in the search engine

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Adele, let me check for you , give me a few hours, my coffee still hot.

    OK, I am back, this is what you need. Amazon has it. You have to add a food grade surfactant , 1/2 t spoon. Also availability at Amazon, cheap.



  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Bob is 100 percent correct about spraying low biuret urea a coupule months prior to the tree's bloom date. Sorry but it is too late for this year.

  • 6 years ago

    Silica, if that hasn’t done anything you can chance it. I keep that stuff on hand because it comes in a 5 lb bag, good for a while. Food grade surfactant is also good for a long while.



  • 6 years ago

    Thanks I just placed my order for next season usage.

  • 6 years ago

    Silica hope you stay with this forum, hate to see all the good ones disappear. This forum getting thinner and thinner. We appreciate you more, especially when things get tougher.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    JB made a good point, if it’s a seedling tree, yes it could take a lot longer to start bearing fruit. Starving your tree of nitrogen before new flushing is one way, but they still need micro,s and p, k., just don’t cut the tree down.

  • 6 years ago

    Putting a citrus tree through a period of drought aids in setting fruit production. Starving a tree of nitrogen I think not.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Mine is grafted along with every other fruit tree in my yard.

  • 5 years ago

    Thank you all!

  • 5 years ago

    Ironically, too much fertilizer will prevent/delay a tree from blooming or producing fruit.

    Fertilizer promotes growth, but then all the plant's energy is being diverted to growth rather than fruit production.