Buckeye, there's a lot that'll work. I'll just get things started. Norway spruce, Colorado spruce, concolor fir, arbor vitae, for a few. Austrian pine would be in the group too, but is just too disease-riden to recommend. Some would say the same of Colorado spruce, but I think they can work fairly well in some instances. Uh.....next......

+oM

contact you local SOIL CONSERVATION DISTRICT ... in the white pages under US GVMT ....

they usually sell such plants in bulk ... small but great price... but more importantly .. they sell stock that will work in your area... as well as many natives ...

they will also provide much information on wind breaks.. which is the same thing as a highway break ...

after reviewing the info they provide ... i suggest you increase your diversity even further.. based on what they sell ... some trees.. some conifers.. some shrubs.. some wildlife sanctuary .... etc .... the further you diversify.. the harder it will be for one plague to roll through and destroy it all ...

good luck

ken

I have been working on a similar project - a deciduous and conifer mix for a reforestation project. After lengthy discussions with experts in this forum, consultations with my local forester, and doing independent research, I concluded that my original plan was not a great idea and was unlikely to succeed. Deciduous trees and conifers have different growth rates so one will crowd out the other unless you take measures to prevent this.

However ... there may be ways to get the effect you want by planting carefully selected species and selective thinning.

Here is a link to a thread about establishing a hardwood-conifer mix. It's long but rich in things you need to learn. It will educate you about these concepts (challenges of establishing a mixed hardwood- conifer mix).

I shifted my goals. I am working on a plan that will include conifers and hardwood trees that are planted so they won't compete with each other, and several single species groves. To learn more about these concepts, download the free publication, "Woodland Visions" from the University of Wisconsin:

http://learningstore.uwex.edu/pdf/G3762.pdf

You came to the right place for advice! I've learned so much on this forum, more than I could imagine.

Pam

Here is a link that might be useful: ISO Advice on Reforestation Projects - Big and Not So Big

buckeye: I misread your post and thought you were planting a 1000 foot fence - I apologize.

Take Ken's advice - contact your local conservation district and your county or regional forestry department - they have experts who will recommend plants that will succeed where you live. They probably have publications on this subject too. Use Google to find their websites - (conservation + your state) - you'll find valuable information and free publications.

Increase the diversity of your selections - your windbreak will be more interesting, attractive to wildlife, and less likely to get killed off by disease.

BTW: There are many threads in GW by people who asked the same question. Use the search box at the top of the page. Type in terms like "windbreak" or "screen neighbor house" or "screen road" for starters. You'll see how other people tackled the same problem.

Pam

for me .. the bottom line is usually along these lines..

i pay outrageous taxes to the various governments.. i may as well use the services they provide ....

and now is a much better time of year to get some individualized care.. rather than in spring or summer.. when these folks get very busy ...

winter to a forester... or Ag agent.. is a good time to walk the property.. and talk ... in other words.. they work year around.. you and i might not want to be out there.. but they wont care .... no need to wait until spring ...

ken

I've done the exact thing you're talking about. Actually when I started planning, I planted in rows with single species such as you mentioned. Later, after deciding I wanted everything to look more aesthetically pleasing and less engineered, I decided to mix the trees within rows and curve the rows some.

I do not suggest sycamore as you mentioned - it loses all leaves in the winter and quickly loses it's lower branches. Here is what I used for the areas I wanted to screen (about 25% of each planted in a random order):

White Pine- beautiful fast growing pine. Will hold lower branches for long period of time - as it grows older, it will lose lower branches

Shingle Oak- fast growing oak - maybe the fastest. Is the best deciduous tree for screening as it holds it's leaves all winter. It will make the screen look less "designed" by adding a deciduous tree in with the conifers.

Red Cedar- surprisingly fairly fast growing conifer. I have been surprised how they have taken off after becoming established. Will hold on to lower branches. Can handle some shade once established.

Norway Spruce- Fast growing conifer that holds it's lower branches. A great tree.

I bought these all from either my dept of conservation or from other states departments. They are also available at mail order nurseries. They were all around 25 cents each. Shingle oak may be the hardest to find, but I can give you some sources if you need some.

All these trees grow fairly fast, are hardy, and will provide a year round screen (the shingle oak will have a month or so in early spring where it will lose it's leaves and form buds). All these trees tolerate clay soils (I have the same). I actually live in Clay County.

I recommend seedlings - they will catch up with larger planted trees in about 5-7 years. Don't overwater the first couple years and provide some SLOW release nitrogen yearly after they are established (after the 2nd year). By the 3rd year they will really start to take off. It will test your patience because they grow very little the 1st couple years as they are developing their root system.

Stick a flag where you want to plant and spray roundup a couple weeks or more before planting to help avoid early grass competition.

Have fun and good luck.

John

For noise issues there I'd go for cup-shaped evergreen leaved trees as they block sound better than anything else.
I believe Magnolia grandiflora was on of the best for that, if not hardy there will likely be something similar.

Hi Buckeye,

How large of a lot do you have and how wide do you want the trees to get? Red Oak, Sycamore and tulip poplar will all grow very fast but also be very wide. I have a Pin Oak that was planted in the mid 70's and it is 35-40'wide. If your soil is not to disturbed and there is beech in the area european beech can also grow fast.

For conifers I like the blue spruce cultivar Hoopsii and Serbian spruce. Norway Spruce will grow faster and be much wider but many of them don't look the best in the area. White pines also grow fast and are attractive. If you want something a little different that is fast growing Lake view garden Center in Fairfield has Cedrus Stenacoma which is a very attractive plant as it gets older. One of the fasted growing conifers here is Dawn Redwood but the drop there needle in winter.

If you want something that stays more narrow I would consider planting serbian and oriental spruce and Spring Grove arborvitae. I would also mix in columner beech and ginkgo. I would avoid any of the firs as they don't do well here. David