Hey John, this is Shawn from Z6a UT. I think this thread has the answers you want. Cheers!
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/lights/msg1011402624473.html?4

The following is an excerpt from an article by horticultural specialist Wayne Vandre of U of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service:

"Critical experiments show that maximum growth of most plants under cool white fluorescent lights will be equivalent to or better than that obtained under the blue-red phosphors. Work by V. A. Helson, Canada Department of Agriculture, Ottawa; and J. W. Bartok and R. A. Ashley, University of Connecticut, indicate that there is no advantage to the use of blue-red fluorescent tubes except for aesthetic purposes. Some of the names of these special tubes are Grolux, Plant-Gro, Plant Light, Vita Light and Optima. The higher cost of these fluorescent tubes may be justified on experimental or aesthetic grounds but is hardly warranted on the basis of plant growth"

In other words, "vanilla" cool whites are perfectly fine for growing seedling.

I think the only caveat is for fruiting and flowering red is especially important, so if you were attempting to grow to maturity indoors some supplemental red might be beneficial during flowering and fruit set.

Here is a link that might be useful: Fluorescent light for plant growth - U of Alaska Extension Service

I would just change your caveat slightly to say that "for fruiting and flowering red may be important". There are many plants that flower just fine under simple cool white tubes, triggered by variations in daylight length (or probably night length) or temperature, by watering patterns, or simply by the maturity of the plant.

I would suggest that rather than use the cheap cool whites, that you look for tubes which offer 20,000-24,000 hour lifetimes with 90%+ lumen maintenance (usually with a brand name like Polylux or Octron or Lumilux). The lumen output of these slightly more expensive tubes is generally about 10% higher than the cheapest ones (and electricity use significantly lower on an electronic ballast), but more importantly they maintain that output for their entire lifetime. The cheap tubes lose brightness rapidly, 10%-20% in the first 1,000-2,000 hours and up to 40% by the end of their lives, so standard practice has been for growers to swap them out every few thousand hours. Save yourself the trouble, spend a bit more and get a tube that gives you better performance for much much longer.