Judy, I haven't been there this year, but in the past I've seen large bags of vermiculite available at McLendon's in Renton...I'm using up the last of a big bag of perlite I bought there.

Not sure my memory is right, but it seems like our "official" last date of frost is about April 15??? That certainly varies by microclimate, however. Factor in such things as elevation, distance from the waters of Puget Sound, maybe wind protection, etc. Frost is still hitting many areas when others can safely plant.

I've been happy with compost I bought at Cedar Grove, altho it has contains cow manure, so I'm not sure you'd want to use it in a veggie garden. A yard picked up at their plant is usually quite a generous measure.

Patrick

Thanks Patrick! I will definitely go there to check it out! I think I'm supposed to use a variety of compost to get a nutritionally balanced mix for the vege garden. So, I can't just go to one place. I'll probably get some from Cedar Grove and some bags from a few nurseries. And I believe it's okay to use compost with cow manure for the vege garden. Just not from dogs or cats. I am soooo looking forward to getting started soon!

Judy

Judy, I got a huge bag (wt unknown, but about 3.5 ft tall, 18 inches wide and about 10 inches deep) at the Grange Supply in Issaquah. Very reasonably priced and one bag goes a long way.

Bulk compost- if you need a fair amount it's probably cheapest to buy it at Cedar Grove or similar rather than bagged from nurseries. Check Pacific Topsoils too- I've had great feedback on their stuff from other customers.

I'm not sure where you are getting your information from, but any suggestion to include vermiculite for raised bed plantings is outdated. Vermiculite does offer some moisture holding capacity, but so does compost and to an equal extent. What it does NOT provide is much contribution to improved drainage. It can do so for the short term but after several months of moisture retention, it collapses and and any contribution to improved drainage is moot. In fact, if used excessively it can impede good drainage rather than promote it.

If good drainage is what you are aiming for, just the fact of utilizing raised beds should be adequate (raised beds naturally offer superior drainage compared to in-ground plantings) - incorporating additional organic matter in the form of compost is all that you need to add. And it really doesn't matter the source of the compost - if finished or close to, it is pretty much fully decomposed and the original materials that comprised it have been broken down into the their elemental parts. It should contain all the nutrients and trace elements necessary for healthy plant growth. I should clarify that this is the case of commercially prepared or bagged compost - it is unlikely for home composters to achieve the temperatures necessary for a very thorough decompostion unless they are very diligent in their ministrations.

You might want to consider some bagged compost products that feature an assortment of manures as part of the ingredients. Gardner&Bloome makes one called Harvest Supreme that was developed specifically for home veggie gardeners.

You might want to read through some of the posts on the Soils and Composts forum or those on the Container Gardening forum. There have been extensive discussions on numerous threads about the composition of "good" soils for raised beds and containers and the appropriateness of some of these additives as well as the contributions to soil fertility and structure provided by compost.

Poochella - Thanks for the Grange suggestion. That's pretty close to where I live and I've gone there many times for other pet and garden things. I will go there first!

Gardengal48 - Actually I am following a vegetable gardening style called "Square Foot Gardening" by Mel Bartholomew. I don't know if you've ever heard of it, but the people that use it are very successful at growing vegetables. There is a forum on this site for it that I have used for other information, but I wanted to get specific information about the Northwest area and so that's why I'm talking about it here. He recommends a formula for the soil that contains 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 good compost (either homemade or several different varieties combined). This type of vegetable gardening is very specific so I want to follow it exactly.

Judy

For another kind of compost, I would definitely check out Bailey's compost in Snohomish,360-568-8826. They do deliver. I much prefer it to Cedar Grove. They have said vegetable gardens can be planted directly into it.

Also check out DeYoungs in Woodinville for any bulk products. Not sure if they have vermiculite, if you still want it. I, too, have not had good experience with it--it really compacts into a tight mush, for propagating anyway. For drainage, you might prefer adding actual pumice or try turkey grit, instead of vermiculite or Perlite.
I got 50# of SlugGo for about $55.00 at DeYoungs--WAY better price than 2.5# for ~$15.00, retail.

Happy gardening.

I'm very familiar with "square foot gardening" - it is discussed very frequently on both the Soils and Organic Gardening forums. It is not anything particularly revolutionary and will not provide any better results than more conventional raised bed methods without the unnecessary amendments. In general, peat and vermiculite are no longer recommended soil amendments unless you are creating your own potting medium for containers and even then, perlite, pumice or turface are preferred. And a container potting soil - for pots - is not the same as the soil used in a raised bed. That's a far faster draining soil than is necessary for that situation.

gardengal48 - I'm a little confused at your last reply because I just purchased the brand new 2006 edition of the Square Foot Gardening book by Mel Bartholomew. One of the most important steps in the book says to follow Mel's formula for the soil for the 4x4 boxes. That formula is 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 vermiculite, and 1/3 compost. I'm not sure why you are saying that peat and vermiculate are no longer recommended in square foot gardening.

Hi Judy,

It looks like gardengal48 doesn't recommend peat and vermiculite, however Mr. Mel B does. I have tried SFG (just one 4 x 4 bed) and it's worked very well for me. Why not try it? If it works, great, if not, try something else. :)

Amy

Amy - Thanks for the encouragement! I am definitely going to try the SFG method by the book! After reading much about it on different websites and forums, it does appear that if you follow it carefully, use the soil formula, and make sure it gets enough sun and water, it will be fruitful!! I don't have a lot of time and it seems like this is an efficient way to grow veges to feed my family all summer with minimal work.

In addition, I have about 2 acres consisting of landscaped beds, a rock garden and wildflower meadow that also needs my attention. So, I am just looking for a easy, low maintenance vege garden. We'll see...

Is there any way you can find out where the vermiculite you get has come from? It seems you would not want it from the Libby Montana vermiuculite mine.
Just be careful in handling it --keep it damp, wear a mask, don't let the dust from it get into your home, etc.

A couple of copy and paste links here: and a different link below.
Good luck.

http://www.baltimoresun.com/business/bal-bz.grace23jan23,0,6730671.story?coll=bal-business-headlines

http://www.epa.gov/asbestos/pubs/vermfacts.pdf

Here is a link that might be useful: epa info

Judy, I didn't say that those products were not recommended for the SFG method; only that they are not highly recommended as additives for amending garden soil or for preparing the soil for typical raised beds. If you study soil science, there is nothing these products contribute to growing conditions that amending with quality organic matter - such as compost - will not also achieve (with exception of the peat possibly increasing soil acidity - unnecessary in this area and generally not desired by most veggies). The garden will be just as healthy, prolific and fruitful without incorporating these items. In short, you are spending money on these products unnecessarily. However, if you are dedicated to following the SFG method religiously, go for it.

FWIW, the Libby, Montana vermiculite mine has been closed for years and the asbestos-contaminated vermiculite has been long gone from store shelves. There is a great deal of fine dust that can be produced with vermiculite, especially when you are using it in volume, and it can be a serious respiratory irritant. Using a dust mask and protective eyewear is suggested.

Just to let you know I did a lot of research on vermiculite and the asbestos-contaminated vermiculite which was on the shelves a while ago was old and thus hadn't been through the rigerous testing that it goes through today. Now suppliers of vermiculite are required to go through this testing to ensure there is no asbestos contamination. You can get the vermiculite at the grange - it says medium vermiculite but it is actually a high vermiculite. The grange's supplier is in Snohomish and you can go there and buy it if you don't want to wait the two weeks it takes to get it in. The grange can tell you who they buy it from. I got mine from their supplier.

I have used vermiculite in my cutting bed where compost didn't seem appropriate because of sterility issues. Perlite, peatmoss, and sand is all I use now.

Soils vary. What to add should be based on what the soil being started with is like. Recipes like one mentioned not actually generally applicable, one place could have a sandy soil, another claylike. Mineral composition may vary significantly from one location to the next.

Here is a link that might be useful: Myth: Healthy Soil Has High Organic Content