Whoever advised you to remove it should be removed from their position of authority, as they don't know what they're talking about. I'd put a large eyescrew in the fencepost at right, at the bottom near the cement footing, straighten the tree by having another person push it straight and then tie the trunk from about the height of the top of the fence to the eyescrew anchor using either strong wire or rope. To protect the trunk from chafing, you can cut a one foot section of old garden hose, and run your rope or wire through that. Black electrical wire is pretty inconspicuous and will probably be strong enough. The tree should regrow roots over the next year, but you might leave the support on for a couple years.

If the trunk was damaged then I'd be a little concerned, but if it just uprooted slightly, as I see it, then by all means try Eric's method.

Closely monitor it as Spring and Summer approach and make sure it is adequately watered when it needs it. Applying a wood chip mulch around the base of the tree (roughly 4" deep or so) should help.

Best of luck!

R

Maybe it will root in, maybe not. It all depends upon whether it truly was rooted in prior to its joust with the wind.

So, it's worth a try to save it.

But when it comes to securing the tree by running a wire through a piece of garden hose, engineering type folks say that's essentially the same effect as using bare wire.

Far better is to use a broad flexible strap.

Beyond that, cross your fingers. Good luck.

If it were mine to deal with, I'd...

1. Dig out some of the dirt outside the main root ball on the side it's leaning away from (this gives the whole thing some place to move back into when I'm pulling it back into position),

2. Get someone to help push/pull it into place and hold it while I secure it with guy ropes to wooden stakes. I use 18" long stakes made from 2x2 (pounding them in at least a foot) and natural fiber robe tied in an open loop (bowline) to the tree, and an adjustable loop (wagoner's hitch) to the stake. I'd use 3 stakes, equally spaced around the tree, knowing that 1 won't really be doing much work right now.

For what it's worth

From the looks of the houses in the background, I'd guess that you are near Sexton Mt. or Murrayhill.

If you can't rock the ENTIRE rootball, leave it as it sits if it's not against a fence.

The top will self-correct, leaving a small curve in the lower trunk.

Drive around town and you will see what I mean.

Have you seen the traffic circle where Sorrento Rd. meets Hart Rd.?

There's an incense cedar in that circular bed that's done just that.

Roots are not steel rods that will just push back in place. If you just pry back on the tree, you can break more roots.

And it will likely fall again (seen it happen a dozen times trying to pull trees back at country clubs).