Sunny or at least warm. Protect the roots in winter, do not leave out during cold spells and allow pot to freeze up like a brick.

I have a couple and they do well in the ground by a concrete east-facing porch. One has a little die-back but not much and still blooms. In a pot is different, as bboy points out. I keep some mini roses over winter on the porch on the concrete which seems to keep the roots from freezing too much.

Pots on concrete get colder than on the ground because warmth comes out of the soil.

bboy, thank you. I can probably put it under the house or in the shed. That should work. Would I cut it down for the winter or just leave the height the way it is?

I've grown choisya in a container - did fine without winter protection, but then I've never had issues with cold damage and container plantings unless it was a true 'temperennial'. And my containers tend to be large. Different locations may experience different conditions.

The yellow-leafed cultivar 'Sundance' is more tolerant of shade - in fact, it will often bleach out or scorch in full sun. And the hybrid 'Aztec Pearl' tends to be a smaller, more compact plant and therefore maybe better suited for longterm container growth.

Don't cut back in winter. If some winter foliar damage is experienced, you can trim back or remove any damage in early spring. My plants are setting flower buds right now.

There are reasons why nurseries over-winter potted broad-leaved evergreens under cover.

The first thing to go is the newest roots, which may be plastered against pot walls if the specimen has not been potted on in a timely manner. When that is the case these most tender roots are right in position to get the full impact of the freezing of the pot walls during a cold spell.

Next least hardy is the mature roots. The most hardy part is the top of the shrub. Some kinds like camellias may look fine until spring, even as late as May, and then fall apart when the top attempts to bloom and grow.

Specimens that have lost only the newest, outermost root growth may merely make less top growth the following growing season than they would have otherwise. You don't know how the whole plant is doing without popping it out of the pot and looking at the roots. As the roots go, so goes the top.

There are reasons why nurseries over-winter potted broad-leaved evergreens under cover.

The first thing to go is the newest roots, which may be plastered against pot walls if the specimen has not been potted on in a timely manner. When that is the case these most tender roots are right in position to get the full impact of the freezing of the pot walls during a cold spell.

Next least hardy is the mature roots. The most hardy part is the top of the shrub. Some kinds like camellias may look fine until spring, even as late as May, and then fall apart when the top attempts to bloom and grow.

Specimens that have lost only the newest, outermost root growth may merely make less top growth the following growing season than they would have otherwise. You don't know how the whole plant is doing without popping it out of the pot and looking at the roots. As the roots go, so goes the top.

I did an experiment, I put a thermometer in a pot on the ground 3' from my concrete porch, 42*F. I put the thermometer in one of the pots on my concrete porch which is also part of the house's concrete earth-berm, is covered, and has a stone wall facing- 50*F. Concrete also absorbs heat from the sun and radiates it. I used to overwinter some mini roses in my unheated but earth-bermed daylight garage, but didn't like carrying pots in and out so started using my front porch, and they did fine. Since it is east-facing it is also great for hardening off tomatoes since they only get some morning sun.