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heidi_wa

Where do I start ?!? rev2

21 years ago

I didn't want to hijack Patti's thread, so since this forum doesn't cycle as fast as the Kitchens forum, I started a new one.

I'm in a similar situation, having just finished building our house last December near Snohomish. We have 2 acres, about half cleared and half wooded, with sandy loam over glacial till soil. During final grading the excavator spread all the topsoil on one side of the house and all the subsoil on the other side. I have to amend the topsoil side to grow grass anyway, but now I have significant work to do with soil on the other side too.

I have a limited budget, but I think enough to have a big truckload of compost delivered and one of topsoil, plus my mother-in-law has volunteered to pay for a landscape architect consultation. I'm reading books from the library like mad, trying to learn everything I can to make that consultation as productive as possible. I'm working on two Ann Lovejoy books right now, and she recommends a thick (12"+) application of sandy loam, topsoil and compost. I don't want to go that thick, partly because it's a sloped area, and partly because I don't want to add that much height. She was doing that for planting beds, and what I want to know is if I can do something shallower if I'm only going to plant grass in that section. How deep to grass roots go?

In my searches for topsoil (which brought me to Patti's thread), I found a cached thread from this forum on google that talked about topsoil sources. Has anyone used the topsoil that Northwest Sand & Gravel makes in Snohomish? I'll go look at it before I order it, but another opinion is nice.

There's a link to the house pictures on my members page. I haven't updated it in a while, and you'll find pictures of our cats and the workshop my husband is building mixed in.

Comments (4)

  • 21 years ago

    Purchased soil won't be needed for grass unless existing material is terrible, or there are big holes that need to be filled. Doubt anything you would describe as "topsoil" needs to have additional material put on top, unless you really don't want to rake any sticks and rocks. Likewise, depending on what are the exact properties of the native soil, it may not be necessary to spend hundreds (or thousands) of dollars on soil or amendments to grow other kinds of plants on your site. The part where it is subsoil might be easier to garden if you buy topsoil and dump it in piles on top, contour those into berms and mounds. Otherwise...

  • 21 years ago

    If you are looking for that Better Homes and Gardens Golf Course lawn, the more topsoil you can afford to lay down the better.

    But you would be surprised to see what will grow in the crud you have there. If you give yourself even a couple of inches of topsoil, AND you keep your mower deck on the highest setting (4 inches or taller) your lawn will thrive even in this hot sunny weather without extra water.

    I don't know about the establishing of my lawn, I wasn't hear 18 years ago. But it is just grass on top of glacial till, and it's lush and green most of the year. The clay is another story. It compacts like concrete when it dries out. But even then, if you can keep it watered it grows grass.

    Since you have such a large lot, you might consider a "pasture mix" which is sold at local hardwares and feed stores. Mix it with the local giant vetch and some crimson clover, and it will grow tall and lush, requiring just one cutting a year in the middle of summer. It needs no care whatever.

    Regards,

    FireVicar
    Jim Eichner
    Woodinville WA

    Here is a link that might be useful: You are invited to the Green Elephant Plant Swap

  • 21 years ago

    Since you live in Snohomish, I strongly suggest checking out Bailey's compost for any area where you really need to improve the soil for planting beds, vegetables etc.

    I really hate to see people *buy* topsoil -- it ends up bringing in a lot of weeds. Instead just add, mulch with, and/or work in *compost* to the native soil.

    I have planted directly into pure Bailey's with very good results.

  • 21 years ago

    Thanks for the feedback, and the invite to the plant swap. I was planning on getting my compost from Bailey's, since they seem to be the only one nearby to use dairy manure. I drove by them every day on my way home from work for 2 years. I'll use it to topdress the lawn on the topsoil side. On the subsoil side, I could use all compost, but that would probably be more expensive than a mix. I am apprehensive about buying topsoil, since so many people have poor experiences with it. I would like to visit a couple vendors to see what they're selling, but there's no way to tell about weeds from that, I guess. As it is, the subsoil side is mostly weeds anyway. If I only need a few inches (3"-4"?) over the hardpan, then I can do more square footage at one time.

    I had thought of using a field grass or pasture mix, given our rural location. Is there a problem with seeding the "front lawns" with a turf grass and the remainder of the area in a pasture grass?

    Also, does anyone have landscape architect recommendations? I know Flower World employs one, and so does the Big Tree nursery near Bailey's.