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donrawson

Fall Hosta Tips

18 years ago

This is an article which I wrote a few years ago for our local hosta society. Hope it is helpful. Don

Fall Hosta Tips

Fall is a great time to be in your hosta garden. After the busy summer days, we can slow down and reflect on the seasons growth. Stand back and just look. Do you have plants that are crowding others? Large hostas towering over smaller ones? Or maybe two cultivars getting intermixed (especially important for plants similar in appearance). Tip #1: Make a list of plants that are crowded and should be transplanted next spring.

Now look for plants that are doing poorly. Are some hostas scorched by the sun? Blues that have turned green? Yellows faded to white? Or is one struggling in too much shade, like ÂWhite ChristmasÂ, ÂGreat ExpectationsÂ, or ÂAbba IrresistibleÂ? Hosta ÂPaulÂs Glory is best in the sun. Are any deprived of water and nutrients due to root competition? Tip #2: Make a list of plants that are growing poorly and should be relocated next spring.

Most hosta gardeners divide their plants to enlarge their garden or to trade with a friend. Now is the time to evaluate each clump, its health and maturity. You can record the number of crowns and know what will be available when they first pop up in the spring. Tip #3: Record plants which are mature enough to divide.


And those slugs...are you feeding them well? They go for the thin, tender leaves. DonÂt worry about the others. When July comes next summer, those rascals will head for those leaves that are full of holes this fall. Tip #4: Record hostas damaged by slugs, and concentrate your slug control methods on those specific plants next summer.


Now that your lists are done, itÂs time to get moving! Tip #5: Save some hosta seeds to grow and then remove those dead flower stalks. They arenÂt attractive during the winter and will be dropping a lot of seeds which creates a weeding chore next summer. Select seeds from your favorites, especially those that are streaked and most likely to produce other streaked seedlings. Gather the seed pods when they turn yellow and let them dry. When they start to split open, shake out the seeds and throw out the debris. Plug in the grow lights and youÂre ready to go!


What about a mulch for the winter? A fall application of manure or leaf-mold around the perimeter of the plant will enrich the soil for next springÂs growth. And your juvenile plants, along with those recently transplanted, will benefit from protection against the cold weather. A coarse material, such as evergreen boughs, bracken fronds, straw, or pine needles can help prevent heaving during the early spring thaws. DonÂt rake up those large dead hosta leaves. Tip #6: Apply an enrichment mulch, and for young hostas, a protective mulch.


And last of all, Tip #7: Prepare a new site if youÂre a real hostaholic. Fall is a great time to collect organic matter- grass clippings, leaves, vegetable garden leftovers, wood chips, watermelon rinds and corncobs...all to be tilled into a new spot and composted during the fall, winter, and spring. The soil is moist and workable. The temperature is comfortable. And you have all those months to dream and plan where each new hosta will go. Send me those mail order catalogs! And grow seedlings, grow!

Comments (9)

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Thank you don,
    All good advice,i sure have enough leaves to get my new bed going,by the way, do i wait for spring to do the ammonia spray,seems like the slugs have fallen in love with my Stained Glass.
    Carol

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Carol, my beer traps have been full of slugs every morning for the past month. May be these are 'sluggish' slugs that would winterkill anyway, maybe not. Check all damp places. Do the ammonia thing under pots, boards, rocks, etc. I get rid of them NOW whenever and wherever I see them.

    Don, another nice list. I wish the weather here was comfortable, maybe next weekend?

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Don you know my exception is not personal!

    "all to be tilled into a new spot and composted during the fall, winter, and spring."

    One organic matter does not become soil easily or as well as on top of the soil. If you till or put organic matter under the soil it decomposes anaerobicly which is not good for the soil. Anaerobic decomposition produces either alcohol or ammonia that are good for the roots.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Hi Butch,
    Do you recommend to allow the organic matter (grass clippings, leaves, etc.) to compost on top of the soil? Wouldn't a large amount of organic matter such as a big pile of leaves (especially oak leaves) break down faster if it's shredded and tilled under? By late Spring, it seems like a new flower bed would be ready to plant. Just wondering how it would work without tilling it under? Don

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    "Hi Butch,
    Do you recommend allowing the organic matter (grass clippings, leaves, etc.) to compost on top of the soil?"

    Hey Yoself,

    BTW, my hosta are doing very well especially H.'Rhino Hide'

    This is another one of those natural things.

    The natural system is set up to do the job. There are organisms designed to begin the process, chew up the coarse material including fungi that breakdown this organic matter. They start the process then they secrete pre-digested organic matter then die or are eaten and other organisms turn this material into another form including worms. Worms will simply come to the surface at night and eat leaves etc.

    Now we move to the next process of more microorganisms eating and being eaten in the process commonly called "soil food-web". Finally all these organisms will break everything down to a form the plant can use. The fungi underground are even different than the ones on the surface, yet the ones on the surface digest even limbs and carry the eaten part into the soil through its hyphae (root like part) where it is consumed by other organisms.

    Underground fungi such as Mycorrhizae that are attached to the roots delivering minerals like phosphors directly to the roots. These fungi including endo and ecto fungi cannot access the minerals from the organic matter directly; it must be digested several times by other organisms before the fungi can do its work.

    If we bury this coarse undigested material it may lay there for sometime, even years undigested. We just cant get in the way of the natural process of compost from the top down.

    Even the compost I produced at the yardwaste compost facility was only barely, very incompletely digested and needed to be put on the surface.

    The idea of tilling/plowing evolves out of row cropping seed crops like corn, etc. and dont really apply to a permanent perennial beds. In fact plowing is falling out of favor for row cropping in favor of "no-till" farming.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    What about dried horse manure? Can it be applied to the soil and rototilled in? We were planning on doing that this fall to our vegetable garden and maybe to some of the hosta beds as we have access to a lot of it.

    Connie

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Butch,
    "If you till or put organic matter under the soil it decomposes anaerobicly which is not good for the soil. Anaerobic decomposition produces either alcohol or ammonia that are good for the roots"
    how is this possible that Anaerobic decomposition is not be good for the soil but it is good for the roots ?
    Manfred

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I've read all of this because I'm in the process of making some new beds and wondering if I should do the 'lasagna' thing or start tilling. I'm sure what Butch (EO) meant to say regarding anaerobic decomposition is that Anaerobic decomposition produces either alcohol or ammonia that are "NOT" good for the roots" ... izzat right, EO? Cuz that's what I've learned from the 'compost' forum.
    Westy

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Westy - I made a new bed last fall following the guidelines for a lasagna bed. Not sure if I did everything totally right, but everything I planted in there this year (hostas and impatiens) did well. We will see how they do in year two.

    I did not till or dig up the old grass.

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