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jakkig_gw

Over-wintering minis in trough

18 years ago

If you have dwarf and mini hostas in a trough, which you can't really turn on its side, like you can a pot, how do you over-winter the trough?

I am in CT on the border of Z5/6 so have freeze/thaw, rain/snow issues.

Thanks for your ideas.

Jakki

Comments (8)

  • 18 years ago

    the biggest key ... to wintering over ALL PLANTS ... in your zone.. is:

    GET THEM DORMANT... KEEP THEM DORMANT...

    its as simple as that ...

    so ... how can you do that ...

    but first ....

    you are in CT... i still havent heard from anyone in that state who doesnt have a rodent/vole problem ... is this a concern???

    and .... describe or give us a pic of the trough .... how big??? are we talking shallow pan like the top of a garbage can.. or a rectangular deepish gizmo ...

    is there proper drainage... whats the potting media .... do you have outbuildings.. other than an attached garage ... any further info might help in defining a procedure ....

    and... why cant you lay it on its side?????

    ken

  • 18 years ago

    Hi Jakkig,
    I have winterd mine over in a trough,one i made myself,it is about 2 feet x 2 feet,and at least 1 foot deep.
    After going dormant,i place the trough under my back porch,no rain gets into it,i have heard you can also place a board on the top,i have never tryed this, but some have .Mine also has good drainage,same hosta have been in there for 3 years now and are doing just fine.
    I am sure there are others who have done differently,all suggestions are helpful.Good luck to you.
    Carol

  • 18 years ago

    Ken -
    The trough is actually a black metal window box on sale from Smith & Hawken - about 9-10" deep potting mix, about 9" wide and perhaps 3' long. There are holes in the bottom for drainage. I can however keep the trough dry during the winter.The medium is Miracle Gro potting mix should I add anything else? I planned to put my newly purchased dwarf hosta in there.

    I figured if I lay it on its side, the mix "block" would fall out!! Guess if it won't then I can put my large ceramic pots on their side too once the mix has frozen. (Should I lean something over the opening so that rodents can't get into the pot opening?).

    I have a "shed" under the sun porch, it has trellis panels around the outside, so it is open to the elements but the trellis will keep out some of the snow/rain etc, but the temperature is going to be within 1 or 2 degrees of unprotected parts of the garden. It won't get much sun, except a bit in the mid to late afternoon, but again because of the trellis the sun will be filtered.
    In that shed I also have some wooden shelving with a plastic cover with a zip up door - sort of mini greenhouse. Although this isn't entirely rodent proof, it would be better than being out in the open (in fact I was thinking I'd put the hostas in pots that I have on the shelves once they'd frozen solid).

    Think I've asked all the questions you asked Ken. Hope it helps!

    I really appreciate everyone's help - EO you posted some pictures of your garden - just the evidence I need to prove to my DH that I can put hosta on the slope which is becoming problematic to mow...many thanks!!! I am learning so much from going back over the 60 odd pages of posts...if I can't garden, I can sit here and learn about my favourite plants.

    Jakki

  • 18 years ago

    "the temperature is going to be within 1 or 2 degrees of unprotected parts of the garden."
    Jakki

    Temperature is simply not a problem with hosta. They can live in z3-4 without any problem and not be bothered by winter cold. The main problem is freeze/thaw sometime during the winter but mostly the problem is spring.

    Simplify your life. Cover this box with chopped up lawnmower cut up leaves at least 4 inches deep under your porch and don't take them out until spring then watch for late freezes and take the box in if they have emerged.

    YES, you may lose one and YES, a rodent may get to them. We "compulsive collectors" never want to lose a single one, even a green seedling. BIG BUTT they can be replaced and we actually lose very few.

    To your hillside, look at the bog idea. If you can't do it then find a pond installer and get a price. If you can afford it or are willing to go the expense of installation the care is simple forever and the hosta grow like weeds.

    My thought for a slope is make terraces interconnected so you only have one watering spot. You can even figure a greywater system with rainwater or household water.

    If you are interested I will talk to the installation people or your husband and take you through step by step. The method can be adapted to any condition.

    email or call if you like wilddog_202@yahoo.com 502-594-8363

    If nothing else it will be interesting to learn how it works.

    Here is a link that might be useful: bog

  • 18 years ago

    Jakki, in regards to your ceramic pots: frozen soil expands and could crack those pots so to be safe, tip those over before the soil freezes, keep them dry and don't let the pot be in contact with ground.

    I don't plant directly in decorative pots but slip nursery pots into them for the season.

  • 18 years ago

    Maryann: thanks for that pointer...the pots are fairly large, but I think I can find a way to do this and keep the pots up off the ground.

    EO - thanks for your pointers too - I have read the posts telling us: It's not the temp stupid, it's the water!!! I guess what I was trying to let Ken know was that there wouldn't be a freeze/thaw or "zone jump" issue, as the temps would be close to our usual temps. But I take your point to heart!

    Also, the bog idea is great! I've just left you a few questions in relation to the constant water experiments you have been doing. I have only just had a quick look at the "bog" link as I need my shut eye (I was going to say "beauty sleep" but I fear it is too late for that to have much effect) - but it seems that it is closely related to the constant water method.

    Jakki

  • 18 years ago

    I've had the best luck overwintering troughs by placing them on the east side of the house, up next to the foundation. The eaves keep them from getting water logged and a few leaves collect around them.

  • 18 years ago

    you said something along the lines of KEEPING THEM DRY ....

    and therein lies [lays?] the problem ...

    dry rot will kill a hosta just as fast as trying to breath in an ice cube .. and a high peat based media can get very dry .... and yet seem moist ....

    they need moisture.. think veggies in the freezer too long.. they dessicate ...

    i lost about 50 plants in spring after the big move ... in pots... when they sprouted early in the pole barn .. and repeated rains and snows and frosts and freezes .... plants in the tokudama/sieboldiana heritage lines.. do not like cold wet feet ... they rotted .... i recall very few that didnt at least sprout ... the problem was when they come up a month or two early ... because of the pots/barn ....

    get them dormant.. keep them dormant.. and dont let them dry out .... some use an ice cube or snowball in the pot.. so on warmer days.. they might melt a bit and provide some moisture.. WHEN THEY NEED IT ... rather than you going out with a watering can .. and doing it at the wrong time...

    all ceramic pots will be broken in z5 ... pull them out of the pots.. and stick them in mother earth somewhere.. and store the pots empty ....

    my best advice... north side of the house ..... after frozen ... place a bag of leaves over the top to protect from ambient water .... and a little extra insulation for those weird temp spikes in february .... AND NO DIRECT SUN >>> EVER >>>>

    good luck

    ken