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mwilk42

Early Blight questions

18 years ago

My tomatoes have early blight and are a sad looking lot. I know that I need to make sure all of the plants, debris, leaves, mulch, etc are out of the garden and I will bleach my cages. Since things were so sorry this year, I thought I would go ahead and get stuff out of there and I had planned to plant a cover crop. Now I am unsure what else I should do to get ready for next year. This is my first year to have this. I don't really have an option to rotate my crops, and I don't want to wait several years before planting more tomatoes. Can anyone offer any suggestions for me? Cover crop? and if so, what?

Thanks in advance

justsaymo

Comments (3)

  • 18 years ago

    It seems like you are on the right track. At the end of your season remove all plant debris. Then turn over the soil as deeply as possible (rototiller, by hand, deep plowing). This helps bury the spores deeply which they say helps prevent disease the following year. You can grow a cover crop of rye or clover (I use rye). Next year space plants as far apart as possible. Continue to use cages to get plants up off the ground. Continue to use mulch, remove weeds, don't wet the leaves of the plants unecessarily, etc. You might also want to use a fungicide preventatively (Daconil, Bravo, or to go more organically use a copper based product). I use Daconil, but want to experiment with an organic copper based spray made by Bonide because the organic people have been asking me about it.

    If you do all the things to the soil I've listed above there is no garuantee that you won't get Early Blight. Early Blight can be carried by the wind, insects, animals, well suffice it to say there are a lot of ways for the spores to affect your plants. BTW, Early Blight is caused by the fungus alternaria solani.

    Good luck.

    Randy

  • 18 years ago

    Like you, I also don't have the luxury of rotating my tomato crop and battled early blight for several years with no success. Knowing that spores are carried in the soil and that most of the time the plants are infected from water splashing off the soil onto the leaves, I tried hardwood mulch over the entire garden. It helped a little, but the plants still struggled with early blight. Last year I used my Mantis to turn the soil. I then put down heavy layers of newspaper all over the garden and hardwood mulch on top of the paper (a thin layer just to hold the paper in place) It worked really well for me. I had healthy plants for the first time in years.
    This year I did the same, and have not had a problem with early blight. I do have to water longer during dry periods to make sure the roots of the plants get deeply watered through the paper after it soaks up some of the water. I also keep the plants well fertilized. I think a healthy plant is able to ward off disease better. And when you plant in the same area year after year, the soil gets depleted of nutrients. I have found Miracle Grow for tomatoes works really well.
    Hope this helps,
    Jennie

  • 18 years ago

    Thank you both very much for your help! Didn't want to overlook anything.
    justsaymo