All depends on power sharing. And the range in question.

Please explain weed. I'm referring to the only induction ranges currently available in the States. The Kenmore/Electrolux or Viking. I'm flexible in terms of consideration of cooktop/wall oven installed U/C. The only caveat for me in terms of getting the induction range (which is probably the way I'll go)is the limited choices available.

I was told by my GC, who is an electrical engineer that the induction cooktops don't really need all that amperage, it's CYA. Also, there are quite a few induction cooktops that only require 30-40 amps, not 50. The Diva induction range requires 80!

Have you considered bosch it has a 40 amp requirement?

I actually was considering the induction range because it would only need one 50amp plug. Even with one like the Bosch that takes 40 amps; I"d still need a separate plug for the UC oven. That's the part that doesn't make sense to me. Why can't there be some device that allows them to share the same plug if the induction range only requires 50 amps. Must be my lack of knowledge speaking! I will also have a second oven like an Advantium installed elsewhere. Part of my motivation to go with the inuduction range is NOT to have to upgrade the electrical/amperage coming to the house. We may have no choice.

You are right.

There is no way to make a _Separate_ "device that allows them to share the same plug". It would cost $x000 to make. It would have too many unknowable factors to consider and to compensate for.

When the oven and cooktop are put in one box together (sold as a unit together), there has to be a sharing device ("load limiting") inside the box -- for whenever you turn every knob on High all at the same time, a Just In Case remote possibility. The no-brainer solution is to limit the power to each load, and when a single designer knows this in advance and includes it in his design, it is quite do-able, as he knows what he s putting into his product. Reducing the current going to each heat element is not rocket science. But reducing current to an unknown product is harder and requires more safeguards which all add up to more money $$$ to build.

There is no other possible way to sell an appliance as a X Ampere device. Only Power sharing, or Current Sharing if you wish to use current (Amps) as the variable that is limited. ((more amps = more power; less amps = less power))

Buy a range and use the existing circuit. Spend less.
Do not pull new circuits. Do no new electrical work.

HTH
-david

Weedmeister explained it. If you look at the Induction cooktops, some of them list power sharing. Copied this explanation from the Induction site:
"A very important datum is the "MaxPower" value. Many units show individual-element powers that add up to impressive totals that the unit cannot really supply. For example, a unit with 4 elements each listed as "2.4 kW" might have a true unit maximum power of 7.2 kW: that means that you could, in this example, run up to three elements at their full power, but if you tried to run all four at full power, each would only be putting out 75% of its nominal maximum (7.2 kW divided 4 ways is 1.8 kW per element, which is 75% of that nominal "2.4 kW"). That is not necessarily a flaw or defect or misrepresentation--there are good reasons for that approach--but you should be well aware of just what you are paying for in actual cost/power terms for the unit as a whole."

Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Some more basic information about power boost and power sharing

the Viking requires 60 amps (it Requires 60 amps, but uses 55. You can't get a 55amp circuit, only 50 or 60). Something like 35 amps goes to the cooktop (unboosted) when all 4 elements are at full power. That leaves 25 amps for the oven, or about 6000watts, which would account for both the broiler and the baking elements together. (a bit more, actually, since the current requirements are a bit less than 60 amps. Hence a safety factor).

The reason you see 40-50amps for some cooktops is that they are using bigger elements that either the Viking or Kenmore range. If you chose to go to the separate cooktop/oven route, you'll have to get one more circuit pulled to your appliance location. But you may NOT need to increase the service to the house. My guess is that a single oven requires less than a cooktop, so that is the new one I would add.

I'm learning so much... thank you all!