Why do you believe you will need to access the foundation walls? If you have a moisture problem, it should be repaired before finishing the basement.

If you have a specific location that needs to be accessible, then purchase or build an access opening for it. Cover with something hung on the wall to disguise it for appearance.

Also, drywall is easily repaired if ever required. In my opinion would be less effort than building panels. Ours is studs and drywall. BTW, I have the same feelings toward the Owens-Corning solution. Looks too much like an office.

Photos of our finished space are linked from "My Page."

>Why do you believe you will need to access the foundation walls? If you have a >moisture problem, it should be repaired before finishing the basement.

Of course I agree. I don't suppose anyone drywalls their basement expecting water damage, but obviously it happens. When the remnants of hurricane Ivan came through, I saw plenty of carpet and drywall out on the curbs. We have a couple trouble spots, and I believe they have been resolved, but I'd just rather play it safe, and leave the option of being able to access the walls. In addition, this is sinkhole country, and I like to keep an eye out for cracks.

Alex

OK, now I understand.

I would use only pressure treated or metal structural support and styrofoam for insulation. Then, green wallboard (moisture resistant).

I would install it with screws, but not tape the seams. Cover the seams with a nice piece of wood trim which could easiy be removed accessing the drywall sections. Would only be necessary to locate the screws for the center studs for the section when removing one.

As for an entirely removable section, I believe it would be necessary to attach the drywall to plywood or another surface. My concern, based on the conditions you describe, is that the plywood would warp and ruin the wall.

Another thought - install a flush door (either hinged or a door panel) where the problem areas need inspection.

Hope this helps a bit.

Thanks for the ideas, the flush door idea is interesting. I'm chuckling at the thought of guests opening them, and the ensuing confusion :)

I think installing the wallboard with screws and not taping is the solution I'll go with. Similar to what I was imagining, but easier to implement. Gardenweb comes through again!

Alex

Thanks for the Thermax suggestion, I'll call their number to see if there isa distributor nearby.

Alex

You could tell guests that the door used to go to a serial killer's dungeon. With a straight face.

I was a subcontractor for Basement Experts / Owens Corning for years. Worked my but off for them.
Just a warning for those subs out there considering working for them, in the beginning they pull money from your checks as an insurance policy to make sure you guarantee your work for a year. I can understand that. But once the year passes with no call backs they are to return the money.
Its been 2 years and I still haven't seen my $700.00. Beware subs, they'll screw you the same way they do everyone else.

I have a similar idea - I was considering making an insulated panel to put under my window on my cold exterior upper story condo wall - thought I would maybe use an insulating panel, then box it in with something like a wood paneling, and a small narrow shelf for the top - so my exterior wall by my computer area in my bedroom wouldn't be so cold in winter, and hot in summer - the walls are not insulated, and winters get into the 30's here - very hot in summer also. Wasn't sure of the best insulating panel to use, preferably narrow -