Not flashed. You can't even do it properly now. There should be a piece of flashing under the window sill before the window is even installed. Make him pull all the windows out and start over. Your builder is dense.

Ditto!! persink...what part of the country are you in? Our state,NC, finally, made it part of the code a couple of years ago.

I wonder if your builder will listen to reason. He may dismiss what you learned on the internet. You may want to contact BiltBest and see if their field rep can meet you, the builder and the sub at the jobsite. BB's rep can add clout. Good luck.

He makes me so mad! After you spent all that time and $$$ picking out your windows the least he could do would be to put them in properly. Have him rip them out and start from scratch. It will be much easier to fix the problem now than to let him continue as is and have expensive repairs in the future. I can't believe he said "they are fine"!

Do you have a county building inspector? If so, you might want to give him a call and make him aware of your concerns regarding the window flashing. Ask him to stop by the site and check on your house. The inspectors are YOUR friends! I'd get the inspector out there ASAP before the GC tries to start on the exterior finishes. I'm sure he'd like to cover that up quickly.

John has a good idea about contacting the BB rep. That might put a little fire under your GCs toes to do things the right way if he knows that you have no reservations about getting people out there to check his work.

Robin...I'm in GA. :o)

Totally agree with Persnick, call the inspector. Do not let that guy put the siding on, NO WAY! I wouldn't even let him back on the job site until the building department comes and looks at his handiwork.

ZERO FLASHING!!

Best advice would be to call the window manufacturer as stated above. DO NOT count on an inspector to know what they are talking about especially city or county. DO NOT allow your builder to advise you about anything concerning the installation of these windows - he's already ruined his credibility. I think you might be able to get a properly flashed window without taking them all out but that would be determined by the window manufacturer.

Bottom line - it is up to you to make sure these windows are installed properly since your builder obviously does not know what he is doing. Research and educate yourself and try your best to be on-site when they are corrected so that they are following YOUR directions.

This is how I had to do it and my perfectly flashed windows are at least one thing I don't have to worry about.

Oh, I forgot to give props to Rollie and all the other flashing experts on this site. I didn't even know what flashing was until I read about it here.

The way Rollie does it is totally awesome. I haven't done the sloped sill before, but if you live where there is ice or heavy condensation forming on the inside of the window this is probably necessary. Aluminum windows conduct heat/cold very efficiently so some ice forms on the inside in subzero climates.

emily......send this link to the idiot GC so he can watch a video on how to flash properly!

http://www.graceathome.com/

what happened to the other thread where you posted other pictures???
I wondered if I was right about how the second picture was
taken!

glad to see robin posted link for Grace.
And yes your windows are not flashed..although I can't see
the top of any of the windows pics you posted.
Stop & flash your windows, if you hang around here long
you'll see lots of leaking window issues.

best of luck.

Thank you all for your advice. We are meeting with the building supervisor later on today.

We contacted the marketing director for BiltBest and he said they should be installed according to ASTM E2112 standards, plus the installation instructions are supposed to be on the back of each window. Neither DH nor I recall seeing them but will look again today!

DH contacted the BiltBest dealer and he said he would go out and check the install, From the photo I sent him he thought they could be fixed without pulling out the window!

From the sites I've looked at they all recommend sill flashing or pans prior to installation so I don't know how they can fix them.

Thanks again, will keep you all posted!

Question- Now that you know your builder didn't do this correctly- how will you know what else he is doing wrong without being a contractor yourself?? This is my fear when I build!! Thanks.

emily....what state are you in?

Yea, what they said..... No, they are not properly flashed... or fastened, which will make removing them considerably easier.

Have the window manufacturere fax you a copy of their installation instructions, if the builder cannot produce one that came with the windows. (destroy the evidence?)

Maybe you should post some pictures of the roof to wall connections also for critiquing.

I forgot to mention that the Tyvek isn't installed correctly at least around the windows either.

what a mess!! that tyvec should wrap all the way around to the inside, the edge of the window needs that adhesive flashing applied, and that window needs a lot more fasteners. At least this was caught now, instead of after the siding went on. Keep a really close eye on your contractor from here on out. He obviously has no problem with taking major short cuts.

I'd take a look at the link below for the Tyvek flashing instructions.

You also should look at the install guide for the wrap to make sure nothing jumps out as wrong. Not taping seams is one potential thing that jumps to mind. There's some overlap here on the flashing.

http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Construction/en_US/assets/downloads/InstallGuideWRB_K16282.pdf

I used the StraightFlash and FlexWrap and found them to be easy to install. But they're not cheap- I suspect that's why your $43k of windows doesn't include the several hundred $$ of flexible flashings they should.

Another thing to look for- and I'm just speaking based on experience, is flashing of wall-to-roof junctions. Doesn't take much to do it right with step flashing from the start, but it's a PITA to go back and correct.

You may also be able to get the install instructions for the windows e-mailed: warrantydept@biltbest.com

Here is a link that might be useful: DuPont guide for window flashing after wrap

Well, the BiltBest dealer was really great, he went out to the site and checked everything and said it was acceptable as these windows have flanges on them and don't necessarily need the opening flashed.

He did have them Tyvek more around the windows and made sure they flashed the exterior of the windows correctly.

Thank you all who posted with great advice. I'm learning so much, thanks again!

When we built, the code was to have a rubber flashing tape over the flange.
Did the dealer explain how the flange alone stops water intrusion?

Hi Emily,

I am not there, so a bit presumptious, but I am going to have to disagree with the rep saying they are acceptable. At the very least get the cut areas on the tyvek under the windows taped. Why it is overcut like that is beyond me. Is the tyvek overlapping the top flange or underneath it? If it is underneath it you still have the risk of water getting behind the wrap. As lsst states, how does the rep justify that opening doesn't need flashing because the windows have flanges????....pretty well all other manufacturer's windows have nail flanges and this certainly does not make flashing unnecessary....curious statement from rep.

Good luck.

I wanna see a picture of the tops of the windows.

Then, I wanna know how much the GC paid the rep.

Then, I'd have a document prepared that states that said rep and your GC approved the installation as proper and correct and I'd make them sign it.

Me thinks you'll need it later.

R

Emily,

The problem with what the dealer said "it was acceptable as these windows have flanges on them and don't necessarily need the opening flashed" is that BiltBest clearly states that windows should be installed in accordance with ASTM E2112-07. BB states this is their warranty disclaimer section of their website and they did so to protect themselves against warranty claims which result from improper installation.

ASTM charges for their installation manual but I did find it, or a portion of it, at an adhesive mfg. website. When the time comes for a warranty claim, the dealer will step aside and advise you to go to BB who will likely deny your claim based on faulty installation. I would push hard for a BB rep to meet you at the site. Failing that, I would talk to someone in BB and repeat what the dealer told you. You should get an interesting response.

Here is a link that might be useful: ASTM E2112-07

Emily,

Please please listen to what we are telling you. It's not a matter of "if" your windows will leak, but when - which if you are lucky will be during construction so that repairs can be made before sheetrock is in, finished, flooring down and you've moved in. Do some searching for window problems on this website. You would be amazed at the mess it will make of your home.

I know of three homes - all were moved into - before problems were repaired. It was Bad with a capital B!

Look at lkplatow's photos on the thread linked below. She spents years on her nightmare! Mold, mildew, rot! Rollie was kind enough to spend hours giving her advice to get her home repaired.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ugly Thread

Nailing flanges are NOT flashing.
Keep after the idiots to do the job correctly, and call the window manufacturer and complain about the rep.
Send them the pictures.

emily.....what state are you in? NC allowed that kind of flashing up until 2 yrs ago when they came to their senses. LOTS of lawsuits! Those windows are NOT flashed correctly!! Back before they changed it here.....the GC's would just say the windows had 'built in' flashing pointing to the flanges......The flanges are there to 'attach' the window to the house.....NOTHING more!!

These are how the windows look now! This is what the BiltBest dealer said was acceptable.

Since then we have spoken to a couple of other builders who say it is acceptable practice here in Lake Charles, Louisiana to ommit window opening flashing, prior to windows being installed if you use the new quality flashings after!

The distinction between "best" practice and "acceptable" local practice, regardless of Codes, is lost on most people.

Building Science Corp. does agree that nailing flanges can be integrated into an effective water management system. But the details are critical. They include a pan flashing. Just taping over everything isn't the answer. FWIW, I would never install windows the Port Charles way, even though this would likely pass inspection here too.

Here is a link that might be useful: Open first search (p. 18)

Do you have a picture of the window heads prior to "retrofitting"?

Or, even a current picture from the inside, of the window head?

Bottom flashing tape should be under the nailing flange, not over, to begin with.

At this point in time, I dont see much improvement. sorry.

Thanks worthy and rollie. DH feels that we would be nitpicking and will antagonize the builder if we insist they redo, especially as BiltBest dealer told them it's 'acceptable'.

I've insisted he install a rainscreen which I know you won't be surprised to hear, he was resistant to. Anyway he's going to install 'stucco wrap' over the Tyvek. Our exterior is 50/50 brick and stucco.

Do you think this will help deflect rain intrusion due to lack of sill pans or sill flashing?

rollie, I will get photos of interior windows this weekend, although they look the same as earlier posting under 'Start of House'.

Those pictures illustrate that your builder (or at least his subs) don't understand the concept behind flashing, which is actually short for step flashing. The most important aspect is to start at the lowest point of the building envelope, and as you work up, overlap by enough that water won't wick back up and covering penetrations. This is how shingles on a roof, with thousands of nail holes, can still be water tight.

Having to use 3 or 4 pieces of flashing tape at the bottom of the window is ugly, but not a problem... if the lowest tape was the first installed... and yours wasn't.

Still, you might not have problems, then again, your chances are higher than on a house with proper flashing.

Its not great..and the bottom of the window should be left unsealed to allow any water (not if..but when it leaks) to
exit.
You may have to step up and insist that he educate himself.
Or educate yourself and instruct them to properly deal with water management of your home,
Builder will move on..you will have issues to deal with.
Removal of stucco & brick later to deal with these issues will not be cheap or easy.
If you choose to let it slide..at least take pictures of every step to prove when it comes down to it that they were never properly addressed at this most critical time.
Best of luck to you.

"...especially as BiltBest dealer told them it's 'acceptable'."

Demand this IN WRITING signed by the dealer.
Take pictures and store everything together.

This will be your defense if ANY problems arise and the window dealer and manufacturer try to escape liability.

emily.....that's better than what 'was' there but like everyone is saying.....it's still not properly flashed. Did you ever look at the video I posted?

Depends on if theyre smart enough to outguess water intrusion and make the details of your rainscreen bullet proof..

Trust me Emily, you sound like a nice person, but I'm being very nice with you, because its my nature. I only offer suggestions,but ultimately you make the decisions of what you are willing to accept.

Yes, there are many opinions on the internet, and you need to be able to sort out the good information from the bad, but believe me, there are a ton of people that have asked the same questions you have. Some have listened to advice, and some not, or usualy, when they buck the information they get regarding this issue, they drop out of site on here because its easier to quit talking to us, than it is the quit talking to their husband or wife or GC about it. I understand that also

I dont have a dog in this fight, and you know my opinion from previous posts. This is my last post regarding your windows, unless asked for further information.

Good luck with the rest of your build.

Adding the rainscreen is great as a double ply underlayment for stucco has proven more reliable than a single layer underlayment. The single layer has been around a long time, but it has been shown to condense behind the layer due to the scratch coat sticking and adhereing to the underlayment causing moisture build up behind. Your window flashing problems will not be addressed, however, unless the windows are pulled and re-installed coinciding with the rainscreen application. Many people on this thread have given you links to proper install/flashing that you need to bring up to your builder or whoever is installing the wraps despite bb reps claims that what you have is acceptable. It's not.

Here is a link that might be useful: another link

Nitpicking is having a fit because the builder used "ecru" instead of "ivory" paint.

Demanding that your builder properly install and flash your windows is most definitely NOT nitpicking. In my opinion, water intrusion is the single most costly building defect there is. I am one of the extremely unlucky people who had a house with poor flashing.

Believe me when I say that a defective home is NOT an affordable home. A defective home can financially destroy an innocent family. A house with water intrusion IS A DEFECTIVE HOME.

Based upon what I know now, your house WILL have water intrusion problems unless you DEMAND that your builder rip it apart and do it right. That means removing ALL of the windows and the housewrap and redoing it from scratch the right way.

I would not spend one minute feeling sorry for the builder or trying not to make him mad. It is YOUR house and once he has YOUR money you will NEVER hear from him again and he most definitely WILL NOT take responsibility and pay for whatever damage happens to your house, whether you have something in writing or not.

Given that your builder doesn't have a clue about water management I would be very reluctant to let him finish the house. Stucco requires EXTREME care to get it right so that water is properly managed (water WILL get behind the stucco and it NEEDS a place to go, unless, of course, you want it to go to your framing, insulation, drywall, carpeting, hardwood flooring, etc.)

Emily, I know that it is a lot to take in, but I seriously doubt that you and your family want several years of your lives to be consumed by lawsuits and financial devastation. I speak from experience - these things happened to us because we trusted our builder when he said everything was fine. You don't want to find yourself sitting at the dinner table discussing with your husband whether it is financially more sensible to tear down your dream house or repair it.

You have received some very good information from the other posters. Rollie is the most knowledgeable person I know about water management issues - please listen to him.

In the event you dismiss the advice given here and allow your builder to continue the construction without making the necessary repairs, you may want to turn to HADD (Homeowners Against Deficient Dwellings). HADD is a support group for victims of defective construction. Maybe you could visit their site now and read about other people who have suffered from water intrusion problems, and the resulting lawsuits, arbitration and financial devastation. It's not too late for you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Homeowners Against Deficient Dwellings

Big guns...suzie is here!!
Howdy stranger..hope all is well with you!

Well hi energy rater!

Things are going fine, hope things are good with you.

Wish things were going well for Emily - I'm afraid she's playing Russian Roulette.

Emily - energy rater is also VERY knowledgeable about water intrusion issues - if you listen to her and Rollie and follow their advice your house will be very well built. Isn't that what you planned on paying for anyway? A well built house, not a disposable one?

Thank you all so much for your concern.

I really appreciate it as DH and I are still pretty ignorant about the whole process of building, although we've been taking a crash course in window flashing and installation online, this past week!

I have followed the links all of you have kindly sent and decided to spend the $67 and download the ASTM E2112 window installation chapter.

It is too technical for me and DH to grasp, but what we can understand is that it says the window openings require flashing prior to window install.

DH contacted the window dealer again, relayed our interpretation of the document, and that our opinion was that the windows need to be reinstalled correctly!

Surprisingly he didn't even have a copy and requested I send him a copy of the pdf file! So it will be interesting to see if it's still 'acceptable' to him. We will be letting the builder know that we want the windows installed properly!

I don't understand why window installation is not in the building code! With all the 'mold' litigation going on, how can building inspectors say it's not an issue of health and safety.

This is how they look from the interior.

Good that you and dh are taking action, emily. It will benefit you on your build and is a chance to benefit the builder to learn proper install/flashing techniques so that this wont be an issue for future clients. Hope he/she is open minded to it!. Best of luck!

Great Emily! You're doing the right thing. Hopefully other customers for this idiot GC also.

Emily,

Thanks for the pictures. I was expecting to see the housewrap tucked into the window head, but didnt. Thats at least partially good.

I noticed you signed in to my website.

Just a FYI, since you are building in La., dont use the thermal details as a reference, because they wont apply to your climate,(cooling). This is one of Joes top ten recommendations. Northern builders shouldnt build in the south, and vice versa.

Some applications will not work in your climate, but good window and roof to wall flashing details have no boundaries.

R

WindowSeal's installation instructions are consistent with ASTM 2112-07 Method A1 (8.1.1.3.3) except that the width of the flashing tape is less than 9" wide. This method is the most common one recommended by manufacturers of windows and weather barriers.

I recommend ASTM E 2112 Method A but most builders prefer the convenience of putting the housewrap on first. That's one of many reasons why a homeowner shouldn't allow a builder to design such important systems for their house.

Here is a link that might be useful: WindowSeal installation instructions

We also dealt w/ a clueless GC. The house he remodeled just prior to ours had mold issues when the owner (a former co-worker) resold. This is within 2 years of the work during historic drought here in GA.

My 2nd Mom's house (mother of best friend from growing up) had massive water/mold problems in a late 90's built cluster home. Strictly due to poor flashing. Her lawsuit against the builder was ultimately unsuccessful. Not to mention sucking time/energy/money from her over a 5-7 year period.

The only reason the 3 exposed windows (i.e. no overhang) in our addition are flashed properly is b/c I put the tape in myself after hearing how GC planned to do it.

That said, I didn't catch all of the poor work on the Hardie and flashing where we have wall-roof intersections. And I'm having to go back and fix that myself.

Trust me- brick or stucco is going to be 1000% harder to fix later. Just fooling w/ siding and installed roofing is a PITA.

Unfortunately, this is just one of a bajillion details that are easy/cheap to do right the first time and hell to fix later.

Emily, I am so very happy to hear that you are going to insist that your builder correct the problems! It is a decision you will not regret.

If the information in the ASTM standard is confusing just ask your questions here - there are lots of people on this board who know a great deal about flashing and water management issues and would be happy to answer any questions you have.

emily.....were you able to get the GC to correct?

Yes, after much back and forth we sent photos and spoke with BiltBest marketing director,we were able to get the contractor to fix to the satisfaction of BiltBest and their warranty standard. It was like pulling teeth though!

I could only imagine what the GC said.....:).....That's great that you were able to get them installed correctly!