The foam fits tightly to the nails holding the ties so there's no perceptible air leakage. The biggest problem I've found using this method is that the masons seem to miss the studs more than they do than when they're just nailing through ply or OSB sheathing. Also, if you're nailing through XPS and wood sheathing, the nails must be longer than usual to penetrate sufficiently to hold.

Tongue and groove 1" XPS sheathing under brick and stone veneer. (Plywood bays are to be covered in EIFS.)

Thanks - that's great information. I have done a lot of research on foam sheathing and no one ever seems to mention a problem with attaching the cladding through the foam, but as always - people on Gardenweb always seem to have real life experience.

There are brick ties specifically designed for penetrating foam board sheathing without damaging it and providing a seal at the face of the sheathing. These ties are easily installed with a drill gun using a special chuck adapter.

Something like the tie linked below should have been specified by the original designer or proposed by the GC so you wouldn't have to worry about it. Is there no spec for the job?

Here is a link that might be useful: Heckmann pos-i-tie

Looking at the linked pic, how does the Heckmann seal any better? It wouldn't be accepted in one jurisdiction I've built in that requires stainless steel ties.

BTW, I wonder how many masonry contractors have a half-dozen battery powered drills on hand for installing such ties.

The barrel is manufactured of ZAMAC 3, a 92% zinc alloy. The screws are heat treated and Stalgardî coated for maximum corrosion resistance.

Wire ties are available in Hotdip Galvanized After Fabrication or Stainless Steel.

The tie is sealed against the insulation board with a neoprene gasket.

How would a contractor attach another other tie. With a hammer?

It certainly looks like a superior product, though it seems like complete overkill. I have always used nailed-in ties, like those in the pic from Simpson at $14.41 per hundred. And these are a step-up from what I usually see.

" It wouldn't be accepted in one jurisdiction I've built in that requires stainless steel ties. "

The ties are available in stainless or hot dip, you only looked at the anchor, and it has no contact with the masonry (making a zinc alloy more than adequate).

The firms where I worked stopped specifying galvanized corrugated ties in the '80's and never specified nails for attachment. Perhaps nailed Simpson BT's would be adequate for one story buildings.

Simpson makes ccorrugated ties in stainless steel if you specify BTBSS.

IMHO one of the potential drawbacks of corrugated ties is that they are often installed pointing upward so that the brickie can twist them around and bend them to sit on the top course. That practice can tear the weather barrier or enlarge the hole.

Another potential issue with corrugated ties is if the ties are installed pointing upward and then simply bent down onto the top brick course, that configuration can allow water on the back side of the brick to run toward the sheathing and into the fastener hole.

The Heckman ties look to be a good answer to not tearing up insulation and barriers.

The anchor is designed to seal the hole, while the tie can then be manipulated for position without tearing the barrier up.

if the ties are installed pointing upward and then simply bent down....

Good point.

But damn if I can remember which way the masons were installing them!

No plan I've ever built from--all two storey residential--has ever specified down to the detail of the ties used. The Brick Institute of America notes that the use of wall ties is 150 years old and specifications for spacing etc. has largely been empirical.