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dixiechick_07

Trane vs Rheem????

18 years ago

Well, I am new to this forum, but reading several posts has convinced me to jump in with a question. a very generic question!!!! We are putting HVAC in a 137 yr old house, including duct work. Has 13' ceilings, tall windows and good size rooms. We are planning on 3 units... one for the new lower ceiling kitchen, high ceiling butler's pantry and 11' ceiling bedroom (14x20). A second unit for the living room (11' ceiling, 22x38 rm size) and a third unit for the front of the house that has the additional bedrooms and foyer. All of this part of the house has 13' ceiling and the BRs have 2-3' x 8' windows. This part of the house is used only when family comes (maybe once every 2 months)

We have had two contractors with significant price differences. One quoted Rheem, the other quoted Trane. The price diffence is over $10K. Are the units that much dfferent quality wise???

Also, the Rheem contractor recommended a Heat pump system. The Trane contractor was adament that he would NOT put a heat pump in our house. Any insight as to why they are suggesting such different units????

We live in the Deep South (South ARKANSAS). Winters are fairly mild, but we do have some COLD days. Of course summers are killers, with 100 deg days a norm with 100% humidity.

Can anyone help me with some solid information about the situation. We had the windows replace last fall and took all of the window units out, so am anxious to get some suggestions and make a decision, before melting time gets here. THANKS to all for advice.

CC

Comments (4)

  • 18 years ago

    First, a dealer who refuses to put a heat pump in such a mild area is nuts and not looking out for your best interest. We're in a considerably colder area. All electric homes with a good heat pump have the lowest overall utility bill, next comes dual fuel with gas backup.

    We've sold both brands for 15+ years. Both are excellent. Personally most of the techs tend to want Rheem for their own homes and families homes and push it to customers.

  • 18 years ago


    Thanks for your response baldloonie (love that name!!!). Anyway, the reasoning was that because the house is not "Tight", and there would be air intrusion, the unit would run all of the time on emergency, if the temp got below 40 degrees.
    Any ideas as to why there is so much varience in the price???? The Trane guy did a Manual J load calc, the other did not.
    Any help would be appreciated.

  • 18 years ago

    You should take some of the cost & put it into tightning up your old home (antibellum?? sounds like it w/8' windows!)
    A blower door test & several cases of caulk would be an investment in your home that would pay off in comfort & lower utility costs. Insulation in those balloon framed walls would also help..of course in the attic also once work is completed there. (and please no recessed lights!!
    or at least air tight insulation contact recessed lights)

    Install is the key for any install of hvac. Ductleakage is very expensive and the time & materials that it takes to do it properly is minimal...or should be for the hvac company.

    We use heat pumps here in south La all the time and diagnostic (blower door & duct testing) to seal homes before sizing units.

    Best of luck to you.
    (howdy baldloonie...good to see ya!)

  • 18 years ago

    Energy rater la - Thanks for the response. One reason we are just now putting a central unit is because we have been trying to put insulation and energy efficient windows in over the past few years. We have insulated under the house, some in the attic and have just replaced the windows with low e glass windows (although they are not double pane) The windows have been tightly caulked and sealed. In addition, an attic fan has been installed to pull hot air out of the attic. I think we have decided to install the heat pump anyway. It appears that most people hear would agree.

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