There should NOT be water coming from the port at the NE position during the final spin. That is a recirculation port for the EcoActive wash function. The only time water should come from there is during the first 3 to 5 mins of the WASH period, and possibly for about 10 seconds at some point during the rinse sequence (to flush the recirculation hose of detergent water). At start of the cycle, the machine fills with just enough water to saturate the clothes, dissolve the detergent, and allow the pump to recirculate. The basket then rotates at a slow 25 RPM while the pump sprays concentrated wash water over the clothes from the recirculation port. After 3 mins or so, it fills rest of the way and continues on with an agitated wash period. Except for the aforementioned rinse-flush, any other time the pump runs, water should go out the drain hose, not through the recirculation port.

The pump's water flow between drain and recirculate is controlled by a diverter valve. Probably your valve is clogged with lint/strings and not fully shifting between the two modes, allowing some of the water that should be draining during spin to divert through the recirculation hose. Do you have some throw rugs or badly-frayed towels/rags that are washed occasionally? Or perhaps tissues or paper forgotten in pockets?

First step, is raise the machine's top, take off the tub ring, and make sure the recirculation hose is properly positioned. It fits into a slot at side of the tub with an integrated seal. That's probably the source of your leak now down the side of the tub, if you've mistakenly pushed the hose out of proper mounting position. Or, since the hose is just about exactly long enough to reach up from the diverter valve to top of the tub, it could have gotten cracked at the neck from being pushed out of the mounting slot.

Remove the machine's lid. Carefully pry out the two lid bumpers and remove the screws beneath. Raise the top, have someone help to hold it up. Unclip the bias spring from the left-front suspension strut (leave it attached to the tub ring). Unsnap the tub ring all the way around and lift it off. Reposition the recirculation hose if necessary so it's mounted properly, then reassemble the machine.

Next, get under the machine and locate the diverter valve. It's mounted to the bottom of the tub, protected by a plastic cover. Has two wires and three hoses attached. Disconnect the wires and hoses, remove the valve and check it for clogging.

If by chance there is no clog in the valve, then the valve may have gone bad. Unusual on a machine of only 3 years, but possible. You can get the part at http://www.searspartsdirect.com. Part # 426862P. Costs only $21.50.

thanks! i'm gonna give this a try!

Thanks for this - I had exactly the same problem and there was lint in the diverter. Cleaned it and it works perfectly again. Thank you very much.

My FP tip loader is leaking as well. Will try these fixes. Question tho. How do I get under this thing? Just prop it up from the front bottom?

Ok. It props up pretty easy. Checked my diverter valve and it’s dry. but the motor that runs the drain pump is dripping wet and shows corrosion. Apparently it’s still works though. Sears website says manufacturer no longer makes this (part #420325P). Maybe there is a seal between pump and tank that needs replaced?

The pump seal is not available as a separate part, except maybe in NZ/Aus (F&P is a New Zealand brand). The seal is rarely the problem when a leak occurs ... leaking is through the motor shaft.

This style of pump went NLA last year when the vendor in Italy closed-shop. There are occasionally some (new and used) offered on eBay but prices tend to be outrageous, especially for new. You might call F&P directly to check if they have a supply that was held in reserve or have sourced an alternate vendor. Otherwise your machine is effectively a goner. A leaking pump will eventually go to off-kilter electrical resistance from the corrosion damage and kill the control board. Some machines toward the later production years had a fuse on the pump circuit to protect the board (and replacement pumps included a retrofit fuse kit). It won't do any good for the long-term if your machine already has the fuse when it keeps blowing and you can't get a replacement pump. I have two spare/new pumps but must keep them for the machines in my family.

I have a WA37T26G Fisher & Paykel washer (about 10 yrs. old). Last week, it began leaking water onto the floor. In diagnosing the problem, here's what I found: It runs fine until it goes into the high-speed final spin, at which point it begins to sling water out of the top back corner near the recirculation hose onto the outside cabinet, which then runs down onto the floor. As the spin increases, water begins to run down all of the sides of the cabinet. Based upon comments here and elsewhere, I removed the diverter valve but none of the hose connections were clogged or contained any lint. None of the other parts are leaking or showing any signs of corrosion. Before I go to the trouble and expense of replacing the diverter valve, is there anything else that could be causing this issue?

HU-382744289,

Two methods to confirm if water pumping from the recirculation port during spin is the source of your problem:

- Raise the machine's top deck for a look-see during spin. Pry out the two lid bumpers near the front corners. Remove the screws. Raise the top just enough during the final spin when running a load to peep beneath to see if any water is flowing from the recirculation port, hitting the rim of the spinning basket and splattering around inside the cabinet. Don't raise the top any higher than necessary. The motor wires that come up at the right rear corner into the control console can get pinched and cut against the sharp metal edge of the cabinet.

- Operate the diverter and pump via Diagnostic Mode to check for improper water flow. 1) With the machine power Off, press and HOLD Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same. Should get two beeps and the panel turns on. Release the buttons. 2) Press the Delicate cycle button to activate the diverter (takes 2-ish mins to shift modes, there's NO indication on the panel when that's done so do it first so it can shift while you do the rest of the test preparation). 3) Press Wash Temp Down to run some cold water into the tub, up to maybe the low water level mark. Press again to turn the water flow off. 4) Wait a little longer if 3 mins hasn't passed since Step 2 to insure the diverter is shifted to recirculation mode. Then press the Regular cycle button to turn the pump on. 5) Water should flow from the recirculation port and NONE from the drain hose. 6) Press Regular and Delicate to turn the diverter and pump off. 7) Wait 3 to 5 mins for the diverter to shift back to drain mode. 8) Press Regular to run the pump again. 9) Water should flow from the drain hose and NONE from the recirculation port. Lift the edge of the tub cover a bit to see under it to confirm no flow from the port. Let all the water drain, then press Power to exit Diagnostics.

Hey there did you ever solve your problem? I’m having the same issue :(

DebFrankovich,

There are at least two different problems discussed in this thread.

What exactly is the problem you are experiencing?

What diagnostic steps have you taken?

I have a Fisher Paykel GWL 15 washer that only leaks when it's in recirculation mode. It spews a good bit of water from the top of the tub lid where the hose fits in. I have replaced the tub lid, the hose and the diverter valve. It still leaks like crazy ! The tub seems to float up too high during the wash cycle and doesn't appear to turn at the 25 rpm wash rate. What's going on ???

HU-412162860,

Does the basket move freely up/down like this when the machine is empty of clothes and water?

ok, I had the same issue, water running down the inside of the outer housing onto the floor during the high speed at the end. it didn't do it during any other time. There isn't too many moving parts on this machine. The clue here I found was from "dadoes" about there should be NO water coming from that top house during the last spin, it should be going out the drain hose. I pulled the diverter valve off and found it clogged. I used a small screwdriver to gently push in one side of the valve and pulled out the safety pin from the other side. Put it back together and no water is coming from the top on the high speed spin (i can hear it going out the drain) and no leaks now.