Hello everyone and thanks in advance for any feedback.

I am on well water and my home is about 20 years old. I had a water company come out and look at my system as it is leaking at the valves in several places. I also have had the system worked on a few times per year, the last 5 years by a water conditiong company in my area (Maryland). Each time it costs $200-$300 and frankly I dont know what they do or how the system works. So I have read most of the posts here for the last week to get up on speed on things and it is very informative.

The company that provided an estimate also did a test on my water. Of course I will validate this tomorrow when I bring in some water to be tested by a firm that was linked from one of the threads (thank you).

My tested water only provided results for PH (6.3), Hardness (10gpg) and Iron (1). They did not test for Bacteria, Nitrates, TDS or Chlorine. Which I will have done as well as the others above. Should I test for anything else?

My home is 5400 sq ft., 2 kids (10-7) and a wife. I have 4 bathrooms, jacuzzi and pool. As well as the other usual items Hotwater Heater, Washer, etc. I also have a RO for the ice maker and kitchen water.

My system consists of two bladder tanks, Well X Troll (WX-350 and WX-202ltd). Out of the 2nd (smaller) bladder tank it goes to a 13"x54" (per company) Fleck 1500 Sidemount Tank (Acid Nuetralizer per company). They are recommending a new 12"x52" Fleck 2510 Automated Acid Nuetralizer for $1100 (3/4" cpvc). $100 more for 1" cpvc. Yearly maintenance = $180.

It also has an Upflow Media Tank (13"x54") with no valves attached to it. There is not tubing coming from my salt bin, so I dont think I have a dual system. The company siphoned some media and said it was sand or Georgia marble. They state that if sediment was/is an issue, then they could install a Big Blue Filter.

It also has a Water Softener (9"x48") with a Fleck 2500. They stated that the system is undersized for my iron level of 1.0 ppm as well as for my home size and usage. They state that harness minerals are seeping out of the tank. It could be either the valve or resin. They offered a 10"x54" Fleck 45K Grain Metered Water Softener for $1000 (if done at the same time). $100 more for 1" cpvc vs. 3/4" cpvc. The salt bin has tubing connected to this unit.

After the water flows from here, it goes to a smaller cartridge filter, which I bypassed due to water pressure. The company offered to install a 10" Big Blue for $200 or a 20" for $300. They stated that these filters would be on the inlet flow of the Neutralizer to protect media and control.

In reading the threads, I have a few questions.

How often should I regen if I have iron in my system?

Should I go with the two tank Softener? if so, do I need two control valves? If not, then how does the 2nd regen?

Would I still need the Acid Neutralizer if I get a new system? This would bring my tanks to 4 total.

Is resin cleaner the same as Iron Out? How often should I use it? Do I just pour it in the canister? Which one?

Should I move my Hot Water heater closer to the system?

Using the calculations in these threads, I will need a 48K Softener. Is that the same for all tanks?

What system would you recommend? My wife is always complaing about the laundry, showers, etc. So I want to do this right the first time.

I will have 2 bypasses for this system (factory and 3-ball).

Thanks again, Jim