Where do the washing machine and laundry tub drain?

Oh boy. You got me there. I'm not sure. We don't live in the house yet...not until May 31. I have a picture of the laundry room, but it doesn't clearly show the plumbing. I'm thinking they must drain out below the laundry tub?

The laundry room is quite small. 6'8" long x 6'1" deep.
For whatever reason my husband thinks it would be easier to move the laundry room into the room with the furnace and hot water heater, and build the kitchen plumbing portion in the current laundry room, tear down the wall between the two rooms in the diagram in the first post, and put the fridge and stove in that room.
Easier??? Yeah, right! :oD

The only problem I see with using this laundry room as a kitchen is that you would have basically no counter space for food preperation. Is there enough space in the furnace room to move the sink, washer & dryer. Keep in mind that you will now have the added cost of doing two rooms instead of your original plan. How big is the proposed apartment? Your husband's idea would surely provide more living space in the apartment.

Dave, my husband wants to combine two rooms to make the kitchen. I think it would be easier to leave the laundry room where it is, and just run the plumbing into the room next to the laundry room, to provide a kitchen sink.
The furnace room does have enough room to hold the laundry appliances and sink, but it seems to me that it would a major undertaking to move the laundry room.
Here is the diagram how things are right now. The "proposed kitchen" is currently just an empty room. The laundry room is right beside it.

This is the furnace room. The furnace and hot water heater are actually around the corner, where you can't see it. But I suppose, technically the washer/dryer and laundry tub could go where the work bench, freezer and fridge are.
But, this room is nowhere near where the laundry room currently is...so I think it would make it complicated.
I don't know anything about this sort of stuff though...so I could be wrong.

I believe Dave's design is taking into account the amount of space a sink, stove, refrigerator, and dinette set would take up in the room. By doing it his way, it would allow for more living space in the room. Having said that, it would be much cheaper to go with your original plan. That is providing that the room is big enough to handle all these add on features.

I believe that there will be enough room to hold everything necessary in the room beside the laundry room. There is a built in shelving area, recessed into the wall, which would serve as a pantry. And there would be enough room for a cafe table in there as well.

Do you know how the plumbing would work if we built the sink cabinet in the room beside the laundry room? Will there be a problem with the fact that the plumbing will run horizontally before it drains downward?

Dave believes that without the downward drainage immediately below the sink, it won't work.

Kim

All your plumbing in the house runs horizontally at some point. If it runs horizontally right after the trap or after it goes into the floor doesn't make any difference. You just have to remember to pitch the pipe in each instance 1/8" or 1/4" per foot.

It ought to work - I can't see much advantage in moving the laundry just so the kitchen can access the plumbing, since you'll be in the same position in setting up the laundry again.

Depending on code requirements, the pipes can be broken out from the laundry and run behind the washer and dryer, through the partition to the new kitchen.

Indeed there needs to be fall to the drain, but it can be done. A t or something might be added to the primary drain be it laundry sink or whatever.....unless it's judged to not allow enough flow, in which case you'd need to tap into the larger drain they connect to.

If there isn't enough fall, you might be able to make the kitchen counter a little taller, with a larger plinth under the cupboards....it's all doable, I did something similar with an office in a converted warehouse sort of building, I had an ugly hot water tank right in plain view, it was too tall to fit under a normal counter, so we had a taller counter built and there it was, a nice office kitchen tucked into a corner that was previously an eyesore.

It was mentioned in one previous response that the pitch would need to be 1/8" or ". That is an incorrect statement. Code requires that all lines less than 3" diameter require a ¼" per foot pitch. A 3" line may be run with a 1/8" per foot pitch under special circumstances but it requires a written approval of the inspector.

We do not know the position of the existing drain. It may be directly behind the laundry sink with the washing machine discharging into the sink or there may be a standpipe riser either between the sink and washer or perhaps behind the washer.

We know from the post that the room is 6Â8" (80") end to end. Assuming the washer & dryer to be the standard 28" the combined width of the washer and dryer is then 56" which leaves 24" for the laundry sink thus the drain opening for the sink should be at 12".

If the washer is connected to a standpipe, that standpipe could be on the right hand side of the washer which would then only be approximately 28" from the right hand wall on the other hand the washer could be discharging into the sink and the drain is directly behind the sink so the overall distance from the right hand wall to the drain opening would then be 68". Allowing 4" for the thickness of the wall and estimating another 2Â to the kitchen sink drain location we get 24" + 4" = 28" thus the proposed drain line could be as short as 56" or it could be as long as 96".

Next we would need to know the diameter of the existing drain line. Although the plumbing codes now requires that a laundry standpipe must be a 2" diameter line, formerly they only required an 1-1/2". On the other hand, a washing machine may discharge into a laundry sink, which is only required to have a 1-1/2" line so we could either just the laundry sink or we could have both an 1-1/2" standpipe and the laundry sink connected to an 1-1/2" line. Under the IRC an laundry sink is rated at 2DFUÂs (Drainage fixture Units) and a laundry standpipe is rated at 2DFUÂs thus if the washer discharges into the sink and the sink is the only fixture on the drain line the load on that line is presently 2DFUÂs however in which case we could add the kitchen sink which is also rated at 2DFUÂs. On the other hand if they currently have both a standpipe and the sink the combined load is 4DFUÂs and 4DFUÂs is the maximum load permitted on a vertical 1-1/2" line, which means we cannot add the kitchen sink.

Assuming for the moment that the washer is draining into the sink and we can add the kitchen sink to the vertical riser we have another problem. The kitchen sink also requires an 1-1/2" drain line, however if the overall developed length of the horizontal 1-1/2" line measured from the kitchen sink trap weir to the riser exceeds 6Â we will need to add a vent within 6Â of the sink, fortunately the IRC permits an unlimited number of AAVÂs (air admittance valves) so we could install a Studor vent on the kitchen sink waste arm.

If this location is under the Uniform Plumbing Code the code restrictions are much more stringent.

As you can see, we would need much more information than what is currently available in this post to make an actual determination if this project if feasible.

And to complicate it even more, I'm in Ontario Canada.
:o/

Thank you to everyone who has replied. It's very clear that this project needs far more investigation. I won't have access to the laundry room/proposed kitchen until May 31. I was really hoping to have a workable plan in place by then to be able to move forward on this project.

to put it politely...POOP!