Correct Flame Position for Sweat Soldering?

18 years ago

I'm going to try my hand at sweating some 3/4 inch copper joints for my tankless water heater. I have a TS-8000 torch and MAPP gas, although I could also use Propane if that would be better.

I tried one test joint with two pieces of 1/2 inch copper (I'm using Type L) and a 90 deg fitting, and I think I overheated the joint because it does not look that nice... there is some black carbonized material around the joint.

The flame pattern on the TS-8000 swirls the flame and as a result it's a very short, squared off inner blue flame. I put the end of this square inner blue flame very close to the joint.

Was this too close? I probably heated the joint for 4 seconds.

So, is there a good rule of thumb for how far away and in what area of the flame this torch should be used?

Thanks for any suggestions. I'll try some 3/4 inch joints next.

Tom

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Comments (3)

Ron Natalie
18 years ago
I don't use MAPP, just a plain old benzomatic propane tip with integral sparker.

I heat the fitting for a few seconds (until solder touched to it will melt), then hit the pipe for a second or two and then return to the fitting and apply the solder to the joint.

Never got any soot...sounds like your torch isn't getting enough air.

What are you using for flux and solder?
Tom Pultz
Original Author
18 years ago
I'm using Sterling lead-free solder that has a melting point of 410 F. For flux I'm using Sterling water soluable flux.

The black deposits were probably caused by trying to reheat the joint and add more solder... because it did not look like it had taken too well... and that must have cooked any flux that was on the outside of the fitting.

I need more practice :-)
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hendricus
18 years ago
With a 90 degree fitting, I hit the back of the fitting with the torch till the pipe is hot enough to melt the solder. No carbon or flame on the joint itself.