Training might help the situation and it is good that you are going.
In my opinion the husky is just not up to snuff from being neglected and although bodies are wonderful about bouncing back from malnutrition and neglect it takes time for this to happen..
No the beagles play is not normal, he is in a hyper-active state, her being intact might be one of the issues, the other might be that he is just not getting enough stimulation - longer walks different routes, too much allowing him to sniff around while walking and not out to have a productive walk.
Dakota is exhibiting submissive behavior by rolling over etc, but her hair in the air tells me she is more than annoyed at the beagles rough play.
Your beagle is demonstrating dominant behavior and I am wondering why he has not been to class before now. You need to be the dominant person in this relationship, not the beagle.

Here is my suggestions. Walk the beagle more often for longer walks and take different routes. The walk should be walking, with the beagle at your side or behind you not sweeping in front of you sniffing everything or peeing on everything. The walk should be done at a pretty good clip.
Next, If you have two trees in the back yard (if not, use your fence and get a 4X4X8 and put it in the ground to use instead of a tree) go get yourself a zip line. it is a cable which goes between two points which are higher up off the ground, another cable is attached to the first cable and the dog is attatched to that, this will restrict the beagles territory and giev the husky a break.
In short your beagle is being a bully because he can,if you want to be more hands on, go get yourself a really long leash and when your beagle starts getting too rough, give him a quick snap of that leash and a command. If it gets too out of control you are going to have a dog fight on your hands and when that husky regains her strength, that beagle might suffer some damage. Avoid a vet bill and trauma and get the beagle under control.
It is good to hear that they have some of the basics down, but dont stop there. Good luck

I just thought of another thing. If you want to resolve this quicly and you can apply more hands on, I suggest you supervise the play from the yard, not just have a verbal correction, but physically remove the beagle from the area. You can do this with a leash if you are afraid of getting bit. You must do this as soon as the behavior starts and you must do it each time is occurs without fail. it is the most effective way to deal with the problem, it takes alot of patience, willingness to not lose your temper or get frustrated, and you have to be there the second it happens, each time it happens no matter how rediculous it seems. Good luck

I have three mutt females, big (about 50 lbs., 11 years), bigger (my alpha about 70 lbs., 6 years), and biggest (100 lbs., 2.5 years. Each have been introduced into the house separately, a few years between.

When I look for a new dog, I consider everything, what type of breed they have in them etc., but especially their personality. For me, Labs and Shepards are a good mix, the two smaller have Lab, the larger has Shepard. All are very submissive to me, I look at them and over they go. They all get along swimmingly, never scuffle, and play all the time without concern.

I think there are two things I always do when a new dog comes into the house that makes things work. The first is constant supervision of the new dog when it's not crated, for at least 9 months. This should be a rule for any new dog. This allows for gradual correction. Lots of people cringe when I suggest this type of supervision, but it works. Most of the time when you are doing something, you can make the dog lay down and chew on a bone, if this isn't possible, crating can take place. Thinking of this as a temporary thing until dog matures and has most negative issues resolved eases the sting some people get out of thinking about it. Plus, it is an almost always fail proof way of making positive things happen.

The second thing has to do with feeding. All three must allow me to put my hand in their bowl, take food out, and give it to them, when they are eating. I also insist that I must be able to take food away when I want, only to give it back within a few seconds. This reinforces my alpha status over them beyond doubt.

I also insist that each dog must be able to visit each others food bowls. The bottom dog of the house does this naturally, the other two might do it, but not always. This reinforces the bond that they have for each other, they all know that I simply will not tolerate any type of aggression, period, unless there is a threat.

It seems to me that your dogs are trying to discover each other, and where they are going to fit into their little pack. This happens naturally, sometimes easy, sometimes not.. You have a very high strung younger dog that wantÂs to play, witness the biting. This is a natural play behavior, some dogs are just rougher than others. The hackle hair raising is natural when the dog is threatened. When playing it typically happens with the submissive dog and is harmless. Your older dog is adjusting to everything. What she is going through on a daily basis is simply trying to find her way. At this stage of things, she is not being very successful doing this, she jumped the fence trying to get away. Added to her problem is her health which she has simply not regained yet. Give her time!

You need to nip not only your current problem in the bud, soon, but also anticipate others. Aggression, even in minor forms, can quicky escalate and become severe.

Every second supervision (army basic training style, not mean, just sternly)is essential when they are not crated. You need to reinforce who is the boss, and take any necessary steps to do this. This may mean severely clamping down on both dogs freedom for a month or more, depending on how progress goes. Obedience supervision is simply a must. Make sure both dogs have their space, especially for eating and sleeping. Be involved with everything the dog does. If you donÂt approve of something they do you will need to figure out a way to correct it. Your intimate relationship with both of them will help solve lots of problems before they even start. A very important thought: Negatives need to be turned into positives. You have lots of negatives! Also, giving dogs their freedom needs to be done gradually, over the course of a few months. Doing this to fast confuses them, and they donÂt know what to do.

All of this is probably going to take tons of time, and your patience will be severely tested. You need to educate yourself about the personality of both breeds (Google has tons of information), and consult who ever you can about what is going on. Rescue leagues are a good source, lots of times they can put you in contact with someone who gives advice free of charge.

You have already done the most important thing, recognizing that there is a problem. Now all you need to do is figure out how to fix it.

Good luck!

SG

Thanks for all your advice (I actually was waiting for an email message, but I guess they do not do that in this forum so that is why it took so long for me to read the responses).
The dogs are not left unsupervised together, even in the yard, after all I read before we got Dakota, I wanted to be safe rather than sorry. Honestly, Max has had obiedence with me since we got him last year, he has sit, down, stay (15-25 min), watch me, drop it, leave it, paw, heel and roll over. I have not had any aggression/ behavior issues with him at all, other than the chewing when we first got him and he was still a "puppy". I practice the NILF (nothing in life is free), making him/them sit for all meals, cookies, bones, and toys. They eat after us, and again no food issues what so ever. Once in a while they will go and check out each others bowls (I do step in there), but there is no growling, and I can put and remove food from both of their bowls without issue...
Dakota sleeps with my daughter and Max sleeps in our room next to our bed in his own bed. I do let them out seperatly and play with them seperatly as well. Also aside from the morning walk together, they are walked seperatly (Dakota is lacking in leash skills as well).
I have started stepping in when I think it is esclating, or she has had enough, telling them to "settle down" and praise when they do. I use "enough" and shaking of a coffee can when I want them to stop all together, and that seems to work. Also I have started to bring a few yummy treats while we are in the back yard and every so often I will call them over and reward them for coming and it seems to be working better. (this is what the trainer said to do). I have noticed a difference in Max, he has gotten better and will "settle" when I tell him to.
One thing that concerns me though is I see Dakota as the dominent one, she takes Max's bones if he leaves them and he will NOT try to get them back. If he has a toy that she wants, she will chase him down and take it from him...she is first out and in the door (after me of course), etc. Is he just TRYING to be the dominent one, cause he was there first? Just when I thought I was getting it now I am confused again. I have been feeding her first, letting her out first, etc...any thoughts there?
Thanks again, Cheryl

It sounds to me as though dominant issues are being worked out.

This is one reason I suggested strict supervision when they are not crated. When you approach your problem this way, you are sending a very strong message, to both dogs. You are the boss, you are keeping an eye on things, and you have limits to what you will tolerate. By now you probably know what to look for, and can detect very small behavior patterns that can lead to bigger problems. Nipping those smaller problems instantly and building on those successes, will take all involved a very long way.

Asserting YOUR alpha position in the pack is essential, especially now. A firm, strict (not violent) way of making your point is simply a must. Again, this could take a while, I would just dig in and commit myself to at least a full month of this, if progress is slow, it will take more time. You will be amazed at what this approach does and how much you learn about your dogs when you do this.

Good luck!

SG

SG, Yes,I do NOT leave them unsupervised at all, while I am at work PT they are crated (which is a whole other issue for the new Husky), anyway, should I keep treating the Husky as Alpha, even though Max seems to be trying to assert his dominance? Are there any more clues for me to look for as far as which of the 2 is the Alpha?
They BOTH seem to be very food motivated (the Beagle Max has that in his nature), but I think Dakota was never given the proper love and/or treats and she eagerly will work for the reward as well.
As I said breaking them up outside was a bit of a challange, but using some high value treats seems to have helped. Inside they are aware I am the Alpha, and do listen rather well when they are playing. I am able to notice the small suttle signs now as well. And amazingly it is all from my Beagle, (whom is the better "trained" of the 2) the low growl and the rough biting with lip curled. He was recently neutered, and that did not seem to help with anything other than the humping. I have another month or so before I can spay her.
So my questions are:
1) Is there any other signs I can look for as to which is the dominant dog
2)Should I keep treating the Husky as Alpha?

I hate to say this...that's a beagle for you. They are a hound breed :-) The beagle is a "big dog in a little package". Small and unthreatening, yet sturdy built and ready for action. They are forever puppies and always looking for action. They were bred for hunting and always on the go. They will run away when they catch a scent, it's in their nature.

It's good you have both of them in obiedence class.