If you haven't bought the lumber yet, eastteak.com will glue up and finish sand any widths you want. Small fee, but worth it. Ask for George Guy.

Also, my experience with the 4/4" (actually 3/4") garapa is that it is not as stable as you may like, miters and such.

If you are planning on using construction adhesive, make sure the PT lumber (rim joist) is fairly dry already, or this step is a waste of time.

I actually already have the lumber as the deck is mostly complete but do have to order some additional from George in order to complete phase 2 of the deck that we are planning. I will have to call him and see how much it would run to join two pieces together to form a 1x8 or a 1x10. Thanks for the information.

I have also considered putting a different type of wood on the fascia. Has anyone done this with garapa and if so what wood did you use? Were you happy with your decision?
Thanks

Kristen

This is ipe decking/treads, and garapa risers and facia.

The parts of my facia boards (3/4") that are in full sun have cupped slightly, at the miters. That's why I mentioned to use construction adhesive, but only on dry Pressure treated framing. But I am happy with the decision, considering the alternatives.

I don't remember what EastTeak charged me to make up the widths of garapa. But I do know it's not a suitable DIY project (making up the widths yourself). Been there, done that.

My DIY deck is coming down the home stretch. Here's lower stairs, sans railings. Treads are bullnosed 1/2" top and bottom. (tip from brooklyn deck - great look, great suggestion - thanks!)

{{!gwi}}

Great looking stairs! Good job. What are you going to use for railing?

I personally don't care for the painted railings, vinly railings, etc. when used on an exotic hardwood project- Unless the house is really ornate, with lots of painted trim detail, the deck and railings don't match. I think cable railings look awesome on a deck like this. Stainless steel horizontal 1/8" or 3/16" cables spaced 3" apart with Ipe 4x4 posts and an Ipe 5/4 rail cap makes a beautiful minimal rail system that preserves the view.

Hi aidan

My railings are 2X4 and 2X6 garapa, ballusters are Deckorator, gray color.

I like them. But maybe double check with your building inspector before you buy, make sure that he likes them too.

Heres a few more pics of my deck (various stages)

Those railings look good- nice match. I also like the combination of Ipe/Garapa for the horizontal/vertical. What kind of finish?

TWP - Dark Oak on the Ipe and Light Cedar on the garapa.

I'm in a "greenie" state, so I have the 500 series. Some states can still OK to use the TWP 100. It depends on where you live.

Looking Good Tom!! those alum balusters are the only way to go.The hardest part on a refinish is doing the wood balusters. J.

Thanks for the kind words John!

But really, without you pros leading the way on this board, I'd be clueless.

Also I have a question for you later John - pic of a neighbor
's project. See what you think. New thread.

Thank you for the pictures. The deck looks fabulous. I did have a question about the metal decking you used. Why did you use them and where did you get them? How much do they cost?

I am thinking of using something similar to provide light to my basement windows. What do you think of the idea?

Tom,as you go on with your project dont forget Cross winds under the deck as you install the skirting,if your going to, cross ventaliton is a big thing with the S American lumber. J.

{{!gwi}}

Hi John,

Yup, I was just thinking about the cross ventilation.

I am planning on making some lattice for under the deck (average ~5' high).

Generically, this stuff is called English rabbit fence. It is made of 1X1 and has a 2 1/2 X 2 1/2" opening. Seems enough air can get through.

Around here, the cheapest clear stock you can get is tulip poplar. Last time I bought it was $.90/bf, random widths, four sides rough, air dried. Poplar doesn't have any rot resistant properties, but it will all be above grade, just like the trim on a house (pine stock). In the photo below the lattice is sitting on masonry. I'll use PT 4"X4" instead (pooh boy).

If I had to, I could probably make the lattice out of cedar, but it would be a lot more money than poplar, and not as strong.

John, or anybody else see any problems, have any comments on it?
{{!gwi}}

{{!gwi}}Another example - this trellis is PT 4X4 with #1 clear pine lattice. It's outside about 5 years. The pine looks better than the PT.

Anybody know of any problems doing this way (no cedar, etc)

Thanks!

Poplar will go quick exposed to the weather like you say, for me I woudent use it. # 1 pt pine klin dried twice would be my choice its possible to work the better grade of pt going thru a couple of grit stages into some pretty good looking projects.
I do like the square lattice it works in just about any place. Puting the finish on is going to take time when we do that with stain we stack all the pannels up so the excess drips down to the ones below and just keep brushing out the runs. Useing paint I hang them up behind the shop and use my spray cup or if there is a lot of them I rent an airless. John

Well, I finally finished it. We have a local "old time" sawmill near here. The mill owner recommended hemlock for the lattice. He said it would last just fine outside, especially if stained. Apparently hemlock was/is the lumber of choice for barn siding.

If anyone is interested in including this feature in your deck project, it is mostly a time consuming process. The materials cost for all my lattice is well under $350, including the hemlock, PT 4X4s, fasteners, and stain.

To do this, you will probably need a table saw and thickness planer (to make all the flat stock). I used over 3,000 #16 brads (pneumatic deWalt nailer).

The flat stock is all 4X4" X 3/4", laid flat, so that makes the lattice panels 1.5" thick.

To get the equal spacing in the lattice grid, I used and excel spreadsheet, with a little bit of high school Algebra. If anybody wants the spreadsheet, send me a mail (tom@garden.net)

Thanks again to all the deck pros here - John Hyatt, Steve from Brooklyn Decks, and so many other!!!

Here's the pile of hemlock for flatstock ($200)

{{!gwi}}

Here's a couple of pics of the finished project
{{!gwi}}

Here's a pic before the lattice screen:
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Here's a pic with the lattice screen:
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Sorry, meant to say the

The flat stock is all 4/4" X 3/4", laid flat, so that makes the lattice panels ONE and one-half inches thick.

Hey Tom,

Beautiful job with the deck and lattice. You sure you're not a pro?
I build custom lattice panels, and would be interested in that excel file...
steve@urbanexteriors.biz

thanks

Nice Deck!

How dd you attach the rail sections to the 4x4's?

Thanks.

If you get bored I'm in NENJ and could use a hand.

Hi legal,

the ballusters are decorators. So are the 90degree rail connectors. Get 'em in Lowes.

The angled rails are toed in, stainless screws.

I'm in Blairstown, Where are you?

{{!gwi}}

I'm in Glen Ridge.

Thanks for the detail pic. I found These on the web I was going to go with. I'll check out lowes.

http://www.deck-lok.com/raillok.htm

My contractor abandoned us so I have had to finish our project. I'll start a new thread about my project.

Can you take a pic of the top of the rail where two boards butt up togeher and are attached to the 4x4.

Thanks

Those are just butt joints

{{!gwi}}