Riles I am thinking you need to go get some comerical hinges the kind used on steel doors then buy some longer screws for them,at least 2'' long. Try out the pilot on a cut off until it works. J.

If you are having a hard time finding the right size pilot bit, get a drill index of wire size drill bits. The number size bits are made in very close increments. You will have 4 different sizes between 3/32" and 1/8"

Get some commercial template hinges like John suggests. For screws, make sure you use stainless. I'll try and post a pic of an Ipe gate 7' tall x 44" wide.

riles-

All screws are categorized not by diameter in inches, but size. This shank size corresponds to a pilot size. (sounds like you are using #6)

http://www.mcfeelys.com/tech/drill-size-recs.htm

But as John Hyatt says, you are probably using hardware that is too small. I think #8 would be a minimum screw to hold a gate.

From my brief experience with ipe and garapa, pilots should be at the upper end of the range. For #8's I use an extra long 9/64" twist drill.

BTW, I have bought most of my stainless fasteners from McFeeley's. They are great.

Riles,
You already got some good advice here, so all that I can add is that you should lubricate the screws with soap or beeswax. Less chance of snapping.

steve

Thanks guys! I got it re-installed this weekend and it looks like it will hold like a champ. My only question now is whether my hinges will hold up to the load. I'll have to wait and see on that one. Since it's a pool gate I wanted to get self-closing hinges so it limits what I can use. If they don't hold up I may have to get to more durable hinge.

Riles

You only need one spring loaded self-closing spring hinge to do the job. The other hinges can be the heavy duty commercial style. As long as the gate is hung plumb and balanced it only takes a small amount of spring force to close it.

Any updated pictures riles?

No updated pictures. We have finished the railing and are picking away at the finish work which seems like is never ending. We have kind of taken a break to enjoy the deck some before the summer slips by. And we are just about to run out of wood. DOH! I'm not sure where I miscalculated, but I am going to have to make a run next weekend to pick up about 100 more linear feet of Ipe.

I will be sure at post some pics once it is completed. Have you started building your deck?

Riles

Have you started building your deck?

Yes. I'm sort of in the home stretch, but i may run out of material for the railings and deck treads. I also can't seem to find any 1x12 to face the stair stringers with so i may be forced to double up some x6 or x8. So temp stair treads are in place for now. It seems like very little has gone smoothly, but the tips and ideas i've gotten from this forum have been invaluable to me. Here's a few low res shots...

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Looks great!! Nice job.

Do you just not like the look of the 2 - 1x6's for the stair treads? That's what I did and seems to be a pretty standard way of doing those. 1x12 will be hard to find as it will have to be custom joined. I'm sure George over at East Teak can do that, but you are going to pay for it.

Riles

JT while your building put a temp cap on the rail posts,something as simple as a 2x6 scrap will do. J.

Thanks. Riles, I will be using 5/4x6 for the stair treads. I was hoping to find 1x12 for fascia for the sides of the stair stringers. I should have made that more clear. I sent George an email the other day about the 1x12 situation. Hopefully he can help as he provided my material for me. Otherwise, I will just glue 2 1x8s and use that.

John, I'll do that, Thanks. Most of the posts still have the anchorseal on the tops from east teak but some do not.

Good Deal JT,actually the thinned down wax has no uv protection play it safe with the temps. J

jtcm - I both glued up 1"X10" garapa plus bought glue ups from East Teak. Both failed in spots. If you are going to do that, make sure the PT is fairly dry.

Otherwise, just rip the bullnosed edge off the boards that you will use for facia on the open stringers. In that way, it will not be so obvious that they are deck boards.

BTW, on your stair treads, if you have a router, consider putting a bullnose edge (1/2") on all exposed sides. Has a real good look (tip from brooklyn decks).

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That looks great. I may have to try that. Great idea. Thanks Tom and all.