Get out your manual,turn all your tensions to 0,then using your manual reset them according to their directions.With sergers it does matter that you follow their steps precisly,same with threading it.For that you thread the lower looper first then the upper looper then the needles.Try it again and see if this works for you.I've had my serger over 25 years and used to have trouble in the beginning because i didn't follow the directions exactly.
HTH
Let us know.
Kathi

It also makes a difference with the types of serger thread you are using, i.e., wooly nylon, 3 ply serger thread, regular sewing thread, or specialty threads for decorative purposes. You then have to adjust the tensions for that.

My favorite is mixing wooly nylon with 3 ply serger thread and have to play with the tensions a bit to get the right combo.

I also discovered that adjusting the stitch length makes a difference depending upon the thickness you are serging. Sometimes a bit up or down will straighten out tension problems.

Also you do have to change the needles after a period of time.

It does help to read through the manual several times and then practice page by page. What really bothers me is that you have had several machines that seem to go haywire after a while which should not be happening and a big suggestion to read the manual, not glance, sit and read.

Ok, I'm using regular sewing thread and come to think about it, 3 of the 4 starting acting up once I changed the thread from what they had on there, which was alot thinner than the thread I'm using. I found out that it's a Singer Ultralock 14SH654 Serger if that helps. I've read the mannual when I first bought it because it was so different from my old serger which was a 3 thread. I'm going to reread the mannual and see if I can come up with anything. But if anyone has any advice still, I'll be more than willing to listen. I'm almost at my wits end with these sergers...lol...thanks so much!!

You and I have the same model and make serger. You really need to reread the manual several times and practice the manual page by page...there's a lot of information and techniques in there you need to know and learn.

Part of the problem is that you are using regular sewing thread in all the loopers and why the tension isn't right...the tension settings were set for serger thread and wooly nylon. Serger thread is made specifically for sergers, and it's more economical to use cones than regular sewing thread spools. It's okay to use sewing thread in the left needle, the rest should be serger thread including wooly nylon.

I was given one of these but no manual......does anyone know where I might get a free online one? thanks!

Martmom,

Sometimes you can go to singer and print the PFD file. for the manual.

Nanci

I can not get my cutting knife flush back to the machine is there a trick to that?

I have an older model singer serger Model 14U85 Ultralock. The chainstitch needle set screw hole has stripped. Can that whole piece be replaced on my machine?

I have acquired a Singer Ultralock 14u85 a piece of paper in the box says it is a 1991 one. I am waiting on needles for it but I need to find a manual. Have looked at a few sites, but they say unavailable. where else can I look. need to know how to put the needles in and do the tension. am going to make a note of the advice above.

my singer ultra lock stopped looping . the repair shop said he wouldn't fool with it because it needs timing and that type of machine falls out of timing frequently and it costs over $100 fo repair it.
is there a solution or must I just dump the machine

"Posted by Jane (missjanedixon@bigpond.com) on Thu, Jan 27, 11 at 5:13
I have acquired a Singer Ultralock 14u85 a piece of paper in the box says it is a 1991 one. I am waiting on needles for it but I need to find a manual. Have looked at a few sites, but they say unavailable. where else can I look. need to know how to put the needles in and do the tension. am going to make a note of the advice above."

I have that same serger. I dread the day it up and dies on me! What a little workhorse it has been!

After being stored for many years, I got it out a few years ago and found I had misplaced my manual. I did find a PDF online as well as one available through Singer. I ended up finding mine thank goodness, but you should be able to find one online. Perhaps even on ebay. Good luck!

I have a similar model. It's a Singer 14SH754. Another similar model is the 14CG754, but I believe some of the 'workings' in that are plastic, rather than metal, which they are on mine.

I bought it about five years ago, tried it out...decided to leave it in the box until I had more time to play with it. Five years went by and I'm only now having a go!

I've found the old thread was easily snapped, so changing that has rectified the constant snapping. Also...if the stitches stop coming out properly, I just take all the threads out and rethread. This is SO much quicker than trying to save time (which it never does for me) by working upper and lower threads around each other in the hope of getting them all in the right order. YouTube videos really helped a lot. Worth watching people do this and giving tips as they go...and it's made me far less shy of ripping all the threads out on a whim. The right type of tweezers help with all the fiddly bits too.

I can sort of see which tension is going wrong by looking at the actual stitches. The straight ones on the inside are the first and second needle, so are easy enough to work out, and the upper looper and lower looper actually correspond to the upper and lower wrapping pattern on your fabric. So...as you look down on your sewing, the upper looper thread will be showing. If you turn it over, you'll see the lower looper thread. These should meet on the very edge of your fabric, but if I'm just sewing a seam and the wrapping threads have done their job of binding, I'm happy enough.

Trial and error is usually the most effective way to go. Different fabrics need different tensions. Plus the 'finger' has to be in the right place in order for the overlocking stitch you're trying out to be effective. The finger stops the threads wrapping the fabric too tightly if you just want a flat edge and not a more rolled one.

There are so many factors to think about with these machines. One thing I usually forget to do is lower the presser foot, so the fabric seems to be moving forward okay, but the stitches aren't being created how they should be. Doh!

The knife on mine has a very hard to press button on the left of its pivot point. I have to press that very hard in order for the knife to swivel nicely back. I also have to take the front panel off to do this.

I hope I've helped some people.

H