First thing I would do is take the Consumer Reports with a grain of salt if they rated wood and fibrex "much" better than vinyl.

Your contractor offering the Andersen replacement is likely installing a sash kit which is not a particularly good value in my opinion.

Most vinyl insert windows will do quite well in converted Andersen openings and will ultimately provide you the best bang for the buck when it comes to value and energy efficiency and especially when compared to the two other options you have listed.

If the window frames are still in good shape, no rot and you have full screen. The sash replacement and adding a storm screen combo could be done for less than the Marvin. Be sure to have them square the window jambs that have settled, if possible. If the jamb are not square you will have to add weatherstrip at head and sill.

nymike77,
I've been installing all types of windows and woodwork in Northern NJ and Rockland for thirty years. I agree with windowsonwashington. A good replacement window and exterior aluminum capping, fully caulked will give you your best return on your investment.
Although vinyl replacement windows basically all look the same, there are many important differences that you need to learn about. Oh, and by the way, we always took care in removal and replacement of expensive window treatments as part of the job.
Email me with a contact number and I'd be more than happy to share with you your proposed window replacement and discuss the pros and cons of all your different options.

All the best,

The PorchGuy

Here is a link that might be useful: My Album

Thanks for all the input....greatly appreciated.

Interesting how there's some consensus that the consumer reports ratings aren't the "be all."

We had a gentleman come in who quoted us vinyl windows with laminite on the inside. The brand is Alside. Whatever research I have done thus far makes me pretty comfortable. Also, the contractor was great in our first meeting. There was no hassle, no pressure...just facts. He also appears to have a stellar record of service based on the references I got.

It's too bad that the industry sometimes gets a black eye from a few unscrupulous people. Seems like there are a lot of good people doing honest work.

The alside sheffield is the best window alside makes you can upgrade to triple pane also.

Here is a link that might be useful: replacement windows

Although it is the most expensive window in their line, I would disagree with that assessment. There are major design flaws in that window and I would sell an Excalibur over the Sheffield any day.

I have a bunch of the Sheffield windows ordered.

What are the "major design flaws"?

The clip in sill is a big issue as well as the clip in weatherstripping block that seals the window against the front edge.

I have eaten a few dollars from customers as a result of these areas not being up to snuff.

The lift rail is also part of the glazing lock which has popped out on more than one occasion.

There is quite a lot you need to understand about windows before you talk to someone about pricing. First, be very careful of Pella and
any other roll formed clad window. The roll formed cladding traps moisture against the wood sash and rots them prematurely. You should
stick to an extruded clad wood window or move to a fiberglass or vinyl, given your location.

You also need to consider the long term implications of Energy Star qualifications, SHGC, Visible Light transmission and how these
relate to daylighting and energy usage. Since we spend about 30% of our energy budget, understanding these issues could save you a
bundle of money over the long term.

I would start with Efficient Windows.org. From there I would see this web page that explains how these
factors interrelate:
>Solar Heat Gain (SHGC), Visible Light Transmission (Vt), U-Value and Daylighting.

After that, make sure that you get pricing from several manufacturers lines. With the businees in such poor shape these days, you are in control, do not be afraid to move on to another source. Get 50 prices if you
need to, but get educated first and understand what you are buying and get a thorough, complete written specification and scope of work
from the contractor to make sure that he is quoting you the right thing and not setting you up for a giant change-order.

Here is a link that might be useful: Understanding Vinyl Windows

Mike, As you mentioned, the building movements have caused the existing windows to become drafty. The existing window frames are no longer "square" in relationship to the sashes that remain square. If you elect to purchased replacement sash "kits", these new sashes would have to be built "out-of-square" in relationship to the existing frames (think of a parallelogram fitting into a square box and you notice the gaps around the two disimilar shapes).

A simpler and less expensive solution is to pull the trim (wood casing) on both sides of the existing window frame and adjust the frames to square. Through the use of shims, you should be able to adjust the window frame back into alignment with the sashes. This will remedy the draft problems without the need for new windows.

I recently read the Consumer Report article since it has been referenced here often. The test procedure used to evaluate the windows appeared to be an appropriate method. The results coincide exactly with the research I've done over the past 15 years regarding the quality of windows (among other building elements), and incorporating high quality fixtures into building structures for energy efficiency and environmental sustainability.

Essentially, the CR study provided that each individual window be installed into an artificial/simulated wall within a controlled environment (a lab) and then subjected to climate/weather changes in an accelerated fashion to replicate the long-term effects of the outdoor environment.

The poor performance of plastic/vinyl windows that was shown in the study should carry some weight, as plastics or vinyl are not known to be very stable compounds. Thus they have very high expansion coefficients and move substantially with temperature changes. Wood does not have a high expansion coefficient, unlike the aluminum or vinyl cladding that protects the wood window. A best scenario, due to these conditions, is to find a wood window that does not physically or mechanically attach the highly expansive cladding to the minimally expansive wood. This will provide a long life window product, as the corner joinery will not be compromised by the "tug-of-war" created between the two unlike materials that are often found attached to each other. These products that do not physically or mechanically attach the wood and cladding are readily available in the industry.

In regards to the plastic windows mentioned in the previous responses, I am in agreement with the CR studies that show the top rated plastic window to score in the lower 25% of the wood windows tested. Plastics are disposable products and are not good materials to use in permanent fixtures of a home. I was astonished to see the price comparisons of some of the plastic windows being so close to much higher rated wood windows. Why buy a Geo when one can get a Cadillac for a similar price?

By the way, in my renovation business, windows are often not deemed necessary for replacement. I often work with 100 year old wood windows, and it is a simple matter of some slight rebuilding to make them fully functional. With specific knowledge of how windows are assembled, both new and old, many new benefits can be incorporated into century old windows to make them weather tight and energy efficient. Granted, these older products are still not as consumer friendly as modern products, but the point instilled here is that wood is an excellent building material that has proven its long term performance.

Plastics are disposable products and are not good materials to use in permanent fixtures of a home.....

I guess by that statement alone, people should start to question the stability of their PVC pipes. I guess by your estimation, the plumbing of the nation is about to implode and leave us with leaky homes.

In your renovation business, do you ever do any plumbing? Ever use an PVC.

Is Consumer Reports the extent of your "research"?

Do you even know what the evaluation tools that Consumer Reports uses are when they test their windows for ratings?

I would post up some of that information first before you continue to hold yourself out as an expert.

I certainly appreciate all the information and debate. We are going with vinyl windows and I have to admit some fears. On one hand the products seems great but it is a very big investment and I hope that we are doing the right thing. It's strange but the existing wood Andersen windows LOOK fine. The look nice from the outside. But they leak so much in the winter and we often find condensation on them. You would think it's a problem when I can basically hear exactly what my neighbors are saying....even though the windows are closed. In our living room, we can actually smell the exhaust fumes of the lawnmowers when the landscaper comes. I don't think those are the characteristics of a good window....which is why we looked to replace them.

Some people say we might save 30% on heating. That sounds like a stretch. I'd be thrilled with 20%.

I guess I will have to post our experience after they are installed.

nymike77 - what brand windows did you decide to go with? We are located in lower NY state. Right now, we are considering Simonton or SoftLite.

comkow - we are going with Alside. I had never heard of the manufacturer before but I did some research and I feel pretty comfortable. The interesting thing is that they have a lifetime guarantee. Based on what I have heard about other windows and their "guarantees," I questioned what would happen if a window was defective. I didn't want to get into a situation where the manufacturer blamed the installer just to get out of replacing it and the installer blamed the manufacturer. It would be a major hassle and effort to prove one or the other wrong. The warranty will cover "anything." I even asked...if my 4 1/2 yr old throws something and breaks the window....it still covered? Apparently, the answer is yes. I obtained references and objective opinions on my installer and I'm pretty sure we will be OK.

Never the less, such a large investment always makes you a bit queasy no matter how much information you have.

Since you are in southern NY (I am near the NYS line in NJ), we probably have the same concerns regarding bitter cold in the winter and blazing hot summers. Since natural gas prices are already scheduled to increase 20% in Passaic cty this year, we thought we needed to do something.

I found the post by mcsbldr very interesting, particularly the reference to keeping old, wood windows. I am torn about replacing double-hung true-divided-light (single-paned, of course) windows with new windows, despite the fact that the ropes in most of my windows are torn and many of the windows are stuck (not painted) shut. I'm convinced the wood used 70 years ago was denser and the primers and paints more weather-resistant than those used today, and that even with the new technologies, new windows won't last as long as these have. But enough of sentimentality--the bottom line for me is that the windows were originally painted with lead paint, and this has made repainting an expensive and painstaking process and I need to do something about it.

As far as choosing replacements, I've noticed--and my observations were independently seconded by a friend who is a contractor--that the paint products available today fare more poorly against the elements than those of a decade or more ago. I have had a lot of trouble with flaking paint and mildew growth on the wood muntins of the windows on the front of my house, which faces north; the last paint job on that side has lasted fewer than three years. In addition, I frequently notice water beading up on the interior of these windows. The condensate then subsides against the paint and disrupts the interior paint job as well. Will this moisture problem affect double-pained windows? Would a wood-exterior window made of Douglas fir (such as that made by Loewen and Marvin) stand up to the elements better than pine? Or must I need to get aluminum cladding to deal with the exterior?

I installed Andersen’s 400 Series Window Conversion Kits for my Andersen Narrow Line windows. I purchased all of them from Home Depot. WOW what an eye opener! I am extremely disappointed in the overall quality of these kits and the poor workmanship that went into making them. There were so many visible defects that it makes perfect sense to question the internal quality of these windows as well. If I had to use one word to describe the overall quality of Andersen’s Painted Conversion Kits it would be “disgraceful”. I have lost any respect I had for Andersen Windows. Unfortunately I am married to these windows. Andersen has agreed to replace seven of the 18 window sashes I installed. It’s been almost two months and no windows yet.
In addition to the defective sashes every jam had distorted rubber seals. I had some success with “fixing” the rubber seals on the jambs. I picked a hot sunny day, took the jams out of their liners and used a hair dryer to heat and relax the rubber seals. That brought them almost back to their original shape. I then left the jamb and jam liners out in the hot sun for eight hours. When I installed the jams in the window box everything fit together nicely.
I believe that Andersen uses rejected product from its higher end products for sashes that will be used for painted product hoping that most defects will be covered up. The only other rational scenarios are Andersen sells rejected product to Home Depot and/or Andersen isn’t committed to a quality product for the conversion kits.

Be careful if you purchase these kits. Make sure you inspect every window closely before installing them.

We did a set of conversion kits that turned out fine but they were a bit of a PITB.

Sorry to hear you are having difficulties with them. Post up some pictures if you can and this is one of the reasons that we stress inserts to most folks.

Consumer Reports = Best VALUE for the money.

This needs to be taken into consideration, as the most important part is getting the best QUALITY for the money.

I never take much stock in Consumer Reports. As WoW has pointed out, if this is the extent of anyone's research, you have not completed your homework - you've only just begun!

This is why most Pro's dont put any credibility into consumer reports.
First off, they only evaluate windows sold at building supply houses and hardware stores. This immediately eliminates the HIGH quality offerings such as okna, soft lite, kensington, and sunrise.
Andersen and pella are only well known names, they do not have the best windows.

Here is a photo of one type of defect. I am not able to post more than one photo for some reason. I'll try again later.

It was obviously a defect prior to finishing process. Should have been picked up in construction but they are figuring on most homeowners not noticing or not caring.

That should be a covered defect and it is certainly, by my eye, not after the fact as it appears to precede the factory finish.

You wouldn't believe how many defects were in the shashes. I've add another image of some defects

it's wood, not a synthetic or man made surface. I would not consider those defects personally. JMHO