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DIY Built-in-base cabinets?

21 years ago

I need a gut check please tell me if I am crazy.

I am considering building in my own base cabinet boxes, because I am sick and tired of looking for a reliable finish carpenter to do it for me; the one that I thought would finally come through for me, worked about an hour yesterday, then split, leaving me a note that he had "reconsidered" and wouldn't be doing the job.

I have been remodeling my 80 year old home largely as a DIY project, with professional help on occasion. The kitchen (plan below) was created by combining three spaces, including a former pantry, and I have kept the wall cabinets. I'm doing a period design with inset flush cabinets, a fully integrated dishwasher, and an apron sink.

There are very few base cabinets  besides the dishwasher and sink, there's just one blind corner and one standard base, ending in a wall. Because the house is old and I've combined three spaces into one, a certain amount of jury rigging and shimming would be needed if I used prefabricated carcasses anyway, so I am considering building in base cabinetry boxes, and then letting a finish carpenter (when I finally find one) come and make the face frames, doors and drawers.

I would undertake this by using the standard framing techniques I know from rough carpentry, screwing ledger boards to the wall, and then working off of them, gluing and clamping as I go. I would build little stud walls to hold up the back and sides of the apron sink.

Here are my credentials

1. I have worked in architecture for more than a decade, and recently switched to interior design.

2. I worked as a carpenter's helper for about a year after I graduated from architecture school (Maaaany years ago)

3. While in architecture school, I took a woodworking class, and made a futon bed frame using only a table saw for making joints.

4. I own a miter saw, a table saw, hand saws, a circular saw, a jig saw, a palm sander, some clamps and other basic tools.

5. I did all of the demo and framing so far, including installing a pocket door kit.

6. I created the design

7. I did all of the supply plumbing so far, and have a wonderful plumber who can help with the waste (I don't do waste!)

8. I have an electrician who can power up the dishwasher.

9. My kids are away 'til the end of the summer, and my husband (I love him, but he's NOT handy) is away 'til the end of the week.

Please note: I am not going to make the face frames and doors  just build the boxes as I described above.

I am sick and tired of having no kitchen and no running water on this floor of my house, and I don't care if I have to have plywood counters 'til I find someone to do the face frames, doors and drawers.

Here's the diagram:

The blind corner is a bit more than 4ft; the sink counter is a bit more than 9ft.

Here are some photos

Sink wall:

The spot where the stove will go (former ice box location) and view into next room.

I don't have a recent shot of the blind corner, but I can take one.

Oh, and the sink and dishwasher are on site.

So  crazy? Or is this a great idea?

Comments (5)

  • 21 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Oops - forgot to mention that the stove is not a cook-top, and is also here.

  • 21 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Sounds like you are qualified to do the job and have most of the equipment necessary. I say go for it, besides you ain't got no help, they all left!!

    Then when you get all those bases finished you can continue building the face frames and have that finished before you can find someone to do that. Face frames are not as tough to build as you might think. A few clamps, a square, a bottle of glue, a pocket jig or a biscuit machine and a little determination (that you already have) and you will have that job nearly complete. When you get this finished then you can start on those cabinet doors! Happy woodworking.

  • 21 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Thanks for the encouragement!

    Any ideas on where I can find some tips or directions? I'm pretty sure how I want to do it, but I don't want to overlook anything.

  • 21 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Base units are a simple box construction. There are a couple ways to make the base toe kick. You could construct the base using a 2"X4" base and sit the box on that. Or you can make the sides the full height and cut the toe kick out of the corner of the plywood which is perhaps the easiest. I would suggest using a 3/4" plywood for the sides & bottoms and any shelves you might want. Use 1/4" for the back. Placing a corner brace in the top of each corner will add strength and stability to each box. Most important thing is to make sure they are square. Go down to your local building supply and look at a few of those to get some ideas and you will be on your way.

  • 21 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Thanks again.

    Just to give you an update, I went into a local woodworking store and tried to find plans or books for building cabinets in place. To the store salesguy's credit, he did not immediately behave as though I was stupid, or crazy or inept (home improvement type places have really stepped up and started to train their employees!) but when I asked his opinion, he said it might be hard to find someone willing to build face frames, doors and drawers on cabinet frames or boxes that I'd made. He said that it seemed like I could do a good job, but even 1/8 of an inch could throw things off for a cabinet maker, and a lot of them won't take on jobs like that.

    I thought that was an excellent point; I know that sheet rockers feel the same way, and finish carpentry is so much more exacting. I want my kitchen done, but if I'm having a hard time finding a finish carpenter now, I don't want to make it even harder.

    So my NEW plan is to order some RTA *all wood* (no particle board) kitchen cabinets with a painted finish, possible re-paint them a color I prefer, and then install. I'll be getting face frames with a 1" overlay door instead of flush inset doors, but for my period kitchen, it's better than frameless!

    I do know that there are pretty precise requirements for painting cabinets and getting a tough, smooth finish. But I just can't go the "pre-fab" route. When you combine the size of my sink and the dimensions of my walls and the requirements of my appliances, I just be shoving a square peg in a round hole.

    Anyway, thanks again for your encouragement!