Examine the range again. Almost certainly there is a bar across the back of the range with a vertical distance between the floor and that bar. Perhaps the range receptacle could be turned horizontal to fit that space.
I rarely recommend orienting receptacles with the faces up so that debris can fall in to the slots. But placing the receptacle under the range, plugging into the receptacle and then tipping the back of the range up to slide it back over the receptacle is another option-- not an especially desirable one.

If this is going between cabinets then "tipping the back of the range up to slide it back over the receptacle" may make installing an anti-tip bracket difficult. What is make of the range? A lot of domestic ranges are designed to be plugged in by opening the drawer at the bottom of the stove and laying on your belly. Consider installing a 4" or 4-11/16" box on the lowest part of the wall near the center of the stove. If the house wiring comes from below your wires are probably right where you want them in the wall, with plenty of length.

Just install a 2 gang old work box and recessed 50a range receptacle. Similar to what is being installed in this link.

Here is a link that might be useful: 50a range receptacle

If the range is as the original post describes it, the male plug on the range and the cord would still interfere with the range being back to the wall with a flush mounted wall receptacle.
But I am not yet convinced that the original description is correct. As some of the locals might say, "I ain't never seen one like that."

It is a Garland S686.

The back is flush all the way down to the bottom of the chassis.

It is sitting on 3" high casters.

The "tombstone" style surface mount receptacle is about a foot (maybe 10 inches) above the floor - and thus in the way.

Assuming I move the tombstone receptacle to floor level and horizontal - the range will slide over it. But, the cord exits out the back of the range - so not entirely flush. I could easily drill an exit for it out the bottom of the back panel though. Then I'd have to find the appropriate bushing.

Jim

The enclosure on the range in which the cord terminates possibly has a knockout which permits the cord to be placed entirely under the range.

Had an Electrolux that I had to build an indent in a 7" thick wall and mount the regular receptacle in that. European appliances don't play well with American standards.

So this is a commercial range that you are installing in a residential kitchen? Commercial ranges are not designed for residential use. They usually required 3 inches of clearance all around for air flow and cooling (they aren't insulated for zero clearance to combustibles). Hence no concern about the cable interfering at the back.

I agree with weedmeister. Otherwise, the installation manual should indicate where the outlet should be located and orientated so the range can be flush with the wall. I recently moved my range outlet for this same reason. As you mentioned, if applicable, putting the outlet near the floor and drilling out a 3/4 hole and using a stress relief or bushing for the cord would do the trick. Ensure drilling said hole would be feasible or not cause the range to not operate properly. Perhaps there is a knockout that is already there for use instead.

I pulled up the installation manual online and it shows a minimum rear clearance of 2", and side clearance of 3" to combustible materials. Some of the options increase the clearance requirement even more. This is a restaurant stove that is not designed to be flush mounted.

Bruce