If you can't get rid of the gap, see if your counter fabricator can get you a strip to fill it in. You are correct that you don't want that hole there!

I don't know if it should be shoved back further for the front to look better--it seems like it should go back to cover the black sides, but go by the manual for clearances on that.

Could the gas connection be recessed?

I don't know how to solve your issue, but I do know you aren't quite done with this yet.

Can't quite tell, but do you have the trim kit attached?

As evidenced by the side view picture your range is not pushed back sufficiently to eliminate the side panel exposure.

I do not have this problem, because I always locate the gas valve in a cabinet to the side of the range, as a safety element, then recess the gas outlet in a cutout in the wall.

The simple repair is a "devised" filler.

I have a Wolf range and the gas connection was also in the way of the range being pushed all the way back. The plumbers had to come back and do some finagling to lower the line just a touch (can't recall how much but I know it wasn't a lot) to allow the gas line to fit under the allowed opening back there.

Good luck!

There is no trim kit for this stove, as it is freestanding, not slide-in. Some googling shows that there are two options for locating the gas stub and valve -- up through the floor as in my current set-up, or off to the side, accessible through a cabinet. If the stub comes up through the floor, it looks like there will always be this issue of a gap behind the stove. Do any of KD's on this forum have any insight into this?

Have the plumber return and recess it in the wall.

My new gas range stuck out even more. I hated the way it looked and, worse, knew that cleaning out behind it would be almost impossible. I had the gas line recessed and now the stove is flat against the wall.

cstr, I had the same problem when my range was installed. Even though our gas outlet was installed as to the written specs, the specs were off just a bit and the stove wouldn't go all the way back. We had to make another adjustment to the gas pipe so that it fit into the recessed area in the back of the range, but the range then slid all the way back and into place.

Is your problem that your pipe coming up from the floor is taller than the specs allow? Maybe the height of the pipe could be reduced a bit, or perhaps you could raise the legs of your range to allow the pipe to fit into the allowed space ... ?

I just ran into this. GE and supposedly other appliance mfg's have purposely done this. Yours does look like it should go back another 1/2" or so.
On the one I just ran into (GE Cafe double oven, all gas) there is a 1" gap. The sheet metal of the stove prevents it going any closer and there is no trim kit available to my knowledge

I have the same range (actually mine has the smaller oven on top) and the same issue. The range is located right next to a few inches of filler (due to a support post) and at some point my plan is to have a plumber move the gas connection over. For now, though, I've sort of gotten used to it.

"GE and supposedly other appliance mfg's have purposely done this."

Why?

Moving a gas line is not a big deal. Call your plumber and get it done right.

"Why?" You'd have to ask GE. My guess is a CYA having to do with ranges without heads,( backs) getting into the mainstream, improperly installed, damage to someone's tile back splash or better yet Corian, and they got sued. Only thing I can think of.

It does not appear to have the required backguard kit installed that takes up approximately 1''.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cafe backguard

Your diagram shows you get interference with a pipe placed "directly in the center of the 30 inch space", but you say yours comes up through the floor, so is any part of the gas line assembly more than 5 inches above the floor? The gas "stub" is not the only thing that can interfere with the rear wall of the stove. How about what's attached to that stub, like a shutoff or a flex line? How high up do they go? If the stub ends with an el, does the el project into the interference zone or do further attachments to that el do so?

Take another pic while lighting up that back gap with some bright lighting?

I just removed a ge dual fuel cafe range from my kitchen. Mine was much closer to the wall than yours, I think there is a recessed area on the back of the range, so that if your line is in the right place, and the right height, you can push range further back, without having to recess gas into wall.

Different kind of range, but with the same issue - turned out to be the electrical connection. We changed out the outlet for a recessed one and problem was solved.

However, looking at the gap in the back and the exposed side, you've only got another 3/4" or so that can be used. The crack between the oven doors and the range body MUST stay in front of the cabinet doors or drawer fronts.

Ideally, I'd get the counter guys back as the counter was incorrectly templated for your range. Or just put a piece of painted wood across the back, level with the counters. If you have a bit of leftover filler, that would also work. Attach "L" brackets underneath the ends and screw into the cabinets on each side or drill through the tile and screw into the wall.

I have my contractor coming out today to address this. I believe that it will be a simple matter of moving the gas line and getting it to fit inside the cutout in the back of the appliance. I sent the contractor an appliance list months ago, so that all of the appropriate outlets, gas lines, ducts, etc., could be planned out. This one was a small oversight on his part, and he has been pretty good about making sure that these small issues get resolved.

I know that it will probably only allow the range to sit back another inch or so, but there is no reason why this shouldn't be done right. I have learned that if something that isn't done the way it should be, being reminded by looking at it every day will make my blood boil. Better to get it resolved early than to be angry all the time!

Here is a pic looking straight down of the GE in the job I mentioned. There is no way to get the range all the way back. This is the first time I've seen this.

Thank you for posting that picture, jakuvall. My range has a completely flat back so making the adjustment to the gas line allowed me to move my range all the way back. The OP's range seems to have the same issue as your picture illustrates. I think I'd be somewhat disappointed to discover "after the fact" that a range couldn't be pushed all the way to the wall.

We had the same issue with our GE Cafe range last year. The issue was not with the gas line. Our contractor was able to get it a little closer than yours is (I would estimate our gap is a little over an inch now), and running the backsplash a few inches lower helped make the gap less noticeable (looks like your backsplash already does this). I decided to live with it and it has been fine--I haven't lost anything down the back and otherwise have been very happy with the range. But I was not happy about the situation when it first happened. From googling around I found several other people in the same boat. Frustrating that they have not fixed this issue!

Here is a photo of the back of the range. There does appear to be a piece that extends about 0.5" from the back of the range, but other than that I can see no reason for the range to stick out a full 2" from the wall.

FYI this is the GE Cafe gas range with baking drawer.

And now that I am able to get a better look at the photo -- it appears that part of my problem may be that the hose is bumping into both the back of the range and the outlet. I will see if I can get those moved...

Just wondering if you got the range any closer. We are getting the same ge range in our new construction home and wondering how we should address this issue.

Thanks

We have the same issue and no gas line. This was very disappointing to discover after the range was installed. This would keep me from buying this same range again considering it is not a cheap unit.

There is NO addressing this issue with this range. We had this range for two days (it's going back- a long story), and it doesn't matter where the gas line is. Our contractor was having a sheet metal person fabricate a piece for the gap; that seemed to be the best solution. It is a design flaw with this range, but is addressed in the on GE's product reviews of the range. I'm glad we are able to return it for one that sits flush.

I too, may get a piece of sheet metal to cover the 3/4" gap in the back. For now, it doesn't bother me.

Mine has a flat back. It's the one with the baking drawer on the bottom. We moved the gas line to fit into the recess, and now it sits flat against the wall.

Ellen1234 and tomatofreak: you guys wouldn't happen to have a pic of the recessed connections do you? I have the same issue with my American Range and am thinking of recessing the electrical outlet and gas line into the wall but am having a hard time visualizing this. Thanks in advance.

monika2024, If you'll refer to your other post, you'll find a solution to your problem.

monika2024:

I just charged a guy $600.00 to alter his countertop, remove a built-in oven, alter the cabinet base, and relocate the electrical and gas to the manufacturer specified area to accommodate his new freestanding range.

I'm pretty good at this. I can't imagine how long it would take a do-it-yourselfer.

Willtv and joseph: nope their answers dont help as the flexhose is in the way NOT the gas line connection with the shut off valve.

in case anyone reads this later on- i found out that: In American Range stoves you run the flexhose INSIDE the range then exit at the bottom and connect to the house's gas line. This allows one to butt up the range against the wall- Wish they showed this in the manual.

I have the same issue but I suspected the anti tip L bracket that is installed on the floor and holds the feet to be the issue as I can't push back anymore on that side. Gas clearance is good even with a 40" line.

My stove gap is just a little over 3 inches. Unable to push it back any more. I'm looking into either makeshifting a shelf, or possibly putting up an IKEA part. It's safe to say I'm So annoyed by it!

Your stove is improperly installed.

@annaship1, I have this problem in a warehouse with cinderblock walls and a concrete floor, where the solution you mentioned of putting the gas connection in sideways through the cabinets would be best; but I can't figure out which gas ranges permit this kind of side connection. Can you tell me anything about where you found out about it, or how I might figure out which range models permit this? Was it mentioned in the installation instructions for your range? I've looked at the installation instructions for a few models, but they all seem to assume connection through the floor or wall. Thank you for any help!

Carolyn:

Your range installation instructions give you an area for stubs.

There is a rear trim piece that came with my range (model - CGS995SELSS) that is mandatory to install, which will fill any gap between the range and the wall. Anybody know what screws to use with that part? I misplaced the screws.

Yes, I also provided my contractor and my cabinet project manager the specs to the appliances that I selected before I purchased them and they all saw the bare walls with the outlets and gas hook up. Both approved that they will fit given the set up. To make a long story short, I need to relocate the gas pipe hook up. Is it advisable and safe for that gas line to be recessed into the wall in an open accessible box so my oven can be installed without it sticking out? I am planning to install a gas cooktop and built in oven under the counter.

We were having this issue and after reading this thread, we discovered that the anti-tip bracket was installed just 1/4” too far to one side so the oven wouldn’t push back all the way. We just reinstalled the bracket in the right spot and the oven is now sitting perfectly flush with the wall. Easy and free and it looks SO much better.

@Aveek Dutta - did you ever install the piece? We have the same issue and about a 2” gap.
Just wonder which screws you used? And was it easy to install?

In new build homes should contractors be installing gas stove piping in a universal manner to accommodate most new model gas stoves? To my understanding, most new stoves no longer have that extra space behind the units which prevents a flush fit. We just moved into our newly built home 3 weeks ago and had no idea this would be an issue. The building contractors excuse was, that had we purchased the appliances through them the stove would have fit. We didn’t purchase through the contractor because the type of stove we wanted wasn’t offered. We learned from the plumber that installed the stove that most new stoves have the same issues. if that’s the case, then the builder should have considered that.

Thoughts?

A plumber or an electrician needs only to be provided with the appliance manufacturer's installation instructions in this case. The manufacturer specifies the area in which stubs/boxes must land.

It has absolutely nothing to do with where the appliance was purchased.

Same issue with rear clearance. in my case, installed gas line offset to side as per instructions. The bend in the gas line from the stove contacts the wall leaving a 1/2” gap. i am planning on installing a double gang box to recess the bend into the wall.

Slide-in Range Rear Filler Kit Black, Universal Triangular Fill Strip, Top Trim Kit Between Stove and Wall for Whirlpool & Most Brand, Aluminum Gap Cover, 30" Long

What is this called?

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