Good start, but you need to do a little more planning first. The cold side looks OK to me, but the hot side needs to be upsized some. The 'fixture unit' method will allow you to design your piping system in a methodical way that will meet your water supply needs. To do this, make a layout of your proposed plumbing scheme, then make a list of your fixtures, assign 'fixture unit' values and then look up the appropriate pipe size to feed the number of fixtures served by each section of piping. This way the piping is adequate and never undersized for the fixtures that will be served downstream. The one difference you will see is the water heater output probably needs to be 3/4" for some distance before it can be reduced to 1/2". That is just one item I caught. An example of fixture unit values and pipe sizing is attached below, different plumbing jurisdictions use different codes for the fixture units, etc. A good reference available at the box stores or from amazon is Taunton's 'Code Check Plumbing'. This is an easy calculation to do, but it will insure that you have adequate supply without those annoying droops in supply when something else starts using water in the home.

Here is a link that might be useful: fixture unit sizing

Thanks for the link. If I am reading the table right, it says to have 1/2 going to the fixture, does that mean I should have 1/2 hook to the sink, and not use one of those 3/8 flex hoses you can buy to make that kind of connection?
Michael

No, the fixture unit piping is the 'main supply' piping that would located in the crawlspace, basement, or walls. Its' intention is not that you extend 1/2" supply piping to a 3/8" inlet on a faucet. Where you approach a fixture (as under a sink or behind a toilet) place the shutoff valve and then transition to the 3/8" supply to the sink (or as appropriate for the fixture).

BTW, I should have acknlowledged in my first post that a lot of this I picked up from lazypup and his thorough teaching. Thanks!

Yes, I have read a lot of lazypup's replies, and they are full of good info. this plumbing stuff is more confusing then i thought.
I was doing more research today, and i came across some info that said CPVC has a smaller ID then copper, so a 1 inch CPVC is about the same as a 3/4 copper. If this is so, should I go to the next biggest size when figuring my pipe sizes, (i.e. when it says to use 3/4, I use 1 inche)?

Well, yes, CPVC does have a little smaller ID. Looking at the NIBCO website data for CPVC and copper Type L, 1/2" has about a 20% smaller cross-sectional area and 3/4" is about 17% smaller.

You could go with a 1" cold water supply line if you're really concerned with the area reduction.

Honestly, I'd be willing to bet that you probably wouldn't notice the difference between the two types of piping.

In regards, to the 1/2" supply lines to fixtures (say a 1/2" line feeding a toilet and vanity), you won't see a problem - 1/2" CPVC will still provide ample supply.

But, in regards to your main supply lines, you could adjust your fixture unit numbers upward by a corresponding % to compensate for the smaller pipe diameters. This would result in extending the larger diametr piping farther along your plumbing tree before reducing the piping downward.

thanks for your assistance, I really appreciate it.
Michael