I'm not a pro, but this is what I plan to do. Glue some 1/2" x 2" poplar boards to the back of the thin cabinet backs, around the edges.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-2-in-x-3-ft-S4S-Poplar-Board-27363/207058984 

This fills in the gap between the back and the cover panel. Then drill a pilot hole through the cabinet back, the poplar strips, and into the cover panel, but don't go through the cover panel! Then attach with screws that won't go through the cover panel. You might be able to get away without the pilot hole if you use a self-drilling screw like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fasteners-8-in-x-1-1-4-in-Cabinet-Screw-100-per-Pack-114069/203556408 

But test it first on someplace you won't see much, just to confirm that you are not poking out of the cover panel. If it's a hair too long, use a washer on the screw, or get the shorter screws.

You could add some construction adhesive to the cabinet frames, but you'd never be able to get the cover panel off again. I like the idea of being able to change the look of my island someday just by changing the cover panels and door/drawer fronts.

After a bit more research, it turns out that IKEA sells an "Assembly kit for kitchen island", Article Number: 002.984.11 , which gives you a very easy cover panel install. Looks like you need two per cabinet for a cover panel install.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00298411/

Too bad the IKEA staff did not add those to my order, now I have to go back and get several of these for both my island and peninsula. But at $15 each, and 2 per cabinet, I need 12 of these for $180. I just might use my original plan ...

Peter - I've been following in your footsteps, and have now reached the cover panel stage for my Sektion Island. Did you end up buying the Ikea assembly kit for your island cover panel? Since my panel will rest on the floor, I don't think it nees a lot of fastening. I am thinking of just screwing it to the frames I built at the rear of the cabinets to support the counter brackets.

I did not. As you know from my other thread, I built an interior frame on my peninsula cabinets for the overhang. I also did that on the island. Rather than screwing all the way through the frame (which you could do), I attached a space filler to the cabinet back and used that to attach the cover panel.

The 1/2 inch poplar I previously recommended as a spacer is too thick, the gap between the fiberboard and the back edge of the Sektion cabinets is closer to 3/8 inch. If you put a strip or a panel of 3/8 inch plywood on the back of the fiberboard (overlap it with your frame that that you built on the inside and screw it to the frame from the back of the cabinet), you can screw through the fiberboard and the plywood to attach the cover panel. Since the plywood is screwed to the frame, it should provide enough strength along with the fiberboard.

When attaching the cover panel, I used pan-head screws, so they would not sink into the wood, and made sure they were at least 1/8 inch short so they would not poke through the cover panel. Test your first one in an inconspicuous place, just in case. You can always use a washer under the screw if you need it to be a little shorter.

I did put a thin strip of plastic on the bottom of the cover panel to separate it from the floor. Just in case I had some significant spill someday, I didn't want the cover panel to sit directly on the floor. I also put some sealant around the bottom of the 2x4 base on the cabinets for the same reason. All probably overkill, but ...

Face staple and forget it. IKEA cabinets only last about 5 years regardless

What exactly wears out on the IKEA cabinets?

IKEA cabinets are made from particle board, MDF. MDF is the least stable panel board that exists. Any water it seems in the same room and the paint cracks away starting at the corners and works it's way in. And it doesn't hold the little screws they provide for the hardware for long. I don't even use MDF for templates anymore because even if the sun comes out too soon after it rains outside, raw MDF makes a convex shape. I make the same purchasing MDF mistake every few years and every time I regret it. IKEA cabinets are a real trap for first time homeowners because they're meant for developers who flip houses for buyers who are going to rip out the kitchen anyway. Hope you do ok. It's a common mistake, because they really do look like cabinets.

My original kitchen was developer-grade particle board cabinets, which lasted 30+ years.

I am also a bit different than most IKEA cabinet homeowner/installers. I glued all the IKEA cabinets together (dowels and backing boards), including the holes for the screws that hold the hardware to attach the cabinets to the wall, and the holes that hold the hardware that holds the cabinet together. I also caulked all the joints in my sink cabinet to prevent water infiltration.

And in the other thread I referred to, I showed how I reinforced my peninsula and island cabinets with a 2x4 frame. I also screwed the wall cabinets to the wall, instead of just hanging them. I should really do a thread on the whole build, it was quite an undertaking. But here is that other thread.

[https://www.houzz.com/discussions/quartz-countertop-overhang-on-ikea-with-no-knee-wall-dsvw-vd~3857112 [(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/quartz-countertop-overhang-on-ikea-with-no-knee-wall-dsvw-vd~3857112)

Most people don't do what I did, so I get what you are saying about particle board and MDF in general.

@Ryan Olivieri - Quite to the contrary, MDF is the most stable (i.e., warp resistant) material you can make cabinet doors from. That's why ALL high-end manufacturers of modern, flat-slab style kitchens (e.g., Bulthaup, Poggenpohl, Scavolini etc.) all use MDF for the construction of this this style of door. The fact that it's cheap (which is why IKEA uses it for their flat-slab style doors as well) has nothing to do with it; there is literally no substitute material that performs as well as a smooth, dense and stable substrate for a modern, high-gloss slab-style door.

Incidentally, there are also waterproof versions of MDF, such as Extira, which I have used from time to time (e.g., for paneled wainscoting in a bathroom).

I'm in a different market, I should keep my mouth shut

Thanks Peter. Good tip on the washers as spacers for the screws. By the way, I used rosin paper to make a template for the back of the island. The length, slant of the floor, and cut outs for the brackets complicated cutting the big Ikea panel piece. The rosin paper template worked well.

Figures, Ryan Olivieri is a woodworker, so he will naturally spit on Ikea products. Ikea takes money out of his pocket. I'm installing an Ikea kitchen in my house now. I did a kitchen in my Moms house 15 years ago, and helped a friend with his 10 years ago. Both look brand new. Great product, but the lack of Ikea support, lack of size options, trim and filler piece options can be challenging. But once figured out, you can save boatloads of money assembling and installing yourself. Doing a peninsula in my kitchen which is why I came across this feed. Figuring out the back panel. I hope everyones projects went well.

None of my clients have ever considered IKEA. It's more about my sense of nostalgia that products like IKEA have knocked out the mid-level of my trade. Most young men that do cabinetry can no longer have a sense of pride about what they do because their work can only depreciate.

check it out. I'll be in the flea market some day. ryanolivieri.com/flyer

Geez, talk about thread dumping. Ikea has a 25 year warranty and a successful kitchen line. You are entitled to your opinion, but keep it easy on the bs.

They can pry the mortised hardware from my cold dead hands

Ryan, there will always be a market for custom cabinets. And as alexgio said, IKEA installs are way too much for most homeowners. You have to be a solid DIYer to do an IKEA kitchen.

I think IKEA fills a market niche, just as custom cabinets do. The particle board and locking dowel structure is a cheap way to go over plywood and real joints, but the metal drawer frames and the Blum drawer slides and hinges are solid.

I'm really just being obstinate. Somebody has to bash particle board. Most of my work involves doors and windows. I don't think I've built a whole kitchen in the last 10 years. At this point I'm just one of those talking heads.

Though this is a month old thread, I'm jumping in. Ryan, "most young men that do cabinetry" ??? Ouch!!! So sexist! And you aren't talking of fine cabinetry- the whole thread has been about the most basic boxes of the cabinetry world, kitchen base cabinets. I get the points everyone's made, but there's a niche for IKEA cabinets for sure. We went from a 1906 4-square house to a 1973 Deckhouse which we are currently updating. Sadly, the original mahogany and maple kitchen cabinets were covered with oak laminate and cheesy doors. Flat panel cabinet doors were gone. So many upgrades (like double pane windows, a new roof...) ate into our kitchen budget and also, I'm not a chef, and want a custom functional kitchen that meets our needs. Most guests to our house say they would expand the kitchen into the dining room and put dining room in screened in porch, etc. etc. Sorry for rambling- the thread just got me thinking! Good luck all, with your many diverse projects!

I don't know what young woman in her right mind wants to work in a wood shop surrounded by a bunch of filthy leering men. But you can't make rules for the exception.

Late to this thread, but tell this to my 17 year old IKEA kitchen that looks fabulous. Nothing disintegrated here. Doing IKEA in my next house, with a modern, sustainable, high performance builder who also favors IKEA for his builds.

@Peter Veregge

I have some questions on how you installed the wood framing inside the ikea cabinets . The other thread no longer allows comments to be added 😢

It doesnt appear that your profile is set up to let me Direcrt Message you. If you see this, can you message me? Or I suppose I could create a new thread specific to questions for you 😹

I am also curious about the back panel turned out Maya.

Jane, I hope somebody responds to this thread!