I've used linch pins (with a flip-over locking loop on one end) on the wheels of my Honda snowblower for years -- so long that I don't even remember what the factory had in there. A great solution, IMO -- easy in, easy out, no tools and perfectly secure in use (as long as the loop is big enough and the wheel hub small enough to let the loop flip over the end of the hub).

IMHO, now you have it apart, I'd "clean out" the hole and replace with new roll pins with a good amount of never seize or grease for the next time. Same for the wheels. Roll pins keep a constant pressure, a regular pin, linch or otherwise would tend to have some "slop."

Good luck,

Ev

Where on earth did you see a 250$ wheel puller?! Here's a pic of mine. It seems to be a work in progress over the years. About a year ago I refurbed it w/ the draw bar, but you could use C channel or? I actually bent the draw bar last fall on one! You can weld a nut (or a socket w/ a nut for clearance) on the wheel and push it off too if you have a welder. Ev makes a good point, but many tillers and blowers just use hardened bolts and nylocs.

Blizzardtools.com had the overpriced wheel puller, and it looks pretty much exactly like the one you picture. I figure if worse comes to worse, I can make one like it for a whole lot less. I'm using the tiller, hoping the rims will just break free from the axle from normal use, but so far, no dice. My garden spot is looking really nice though!

I use 5/16 grade 8 bolt back in hole that clamp down to axle shaft. After clean up they slope loose and cut wire pin. I like that puller.

Thanks, but next time I redo the main puller bolt it will have ACME thread.

Here is another way. It is one of those cheapo jacks that I stole the ram out of. The draw bar version gets bulky, but the puller was made wide to accommodate large wheels. Its original use years ago was to extract a large rider wheel with the built in hub. It worked solidly and did not bend the wheel. The back plates slide down to what size tire you have. It has been used on several styles of rider wheels and it seems to do the job. It fits behind the horse wheels, but it is a tight fit. For your tiller a smaller puller size should be easy to create. I suppose in the scheme of things, the 250$ puller could be an Ok deal if you would use it repeatedly. Though there is something to be said to create your own. Post pics when you are done!

Here is a link that might be useful: A DIY puller from down under

This post was edited by tomplum on Sat, Feb 7, 15 at 11:40

Do you like the bolt or the jack cylinder better? I will more than likely be building one, though I doubt it is going to look as good as yours! I have used that tiller for around 10 hours now with the roll pins out, and they have not budged...not even a millimeter, and I have purposely bogged it down trying to get extra torque on the wheels. What thickness metal did you use for the part that goes on the back that engages the 2 bars behind the wheel? Looks like I will be buying some scrap metal, all I have is too thin for this kind of pressure...I do have an old drawbar already though, and a lot of 3/4" threaded rod...If you are in Georgia by any chance I will gladly rent that jewel from you lol

I have not even used the ram yet. At least I don't think so. I went through last year and updated/ painted it - made a pair of new pusher bolts as they can get damaged and bought the draw bar. It was then I fashioned the ram to work with the draw bar. The front bar was heavy channel b4. Wandering in the hardware store I saw they had ACME thread- like a vice would use. Of course, that was after I did the pusher bolts! Those I have in 3/4 and 5/8. I need the smaller for the double D axles. Remember- this thing started as a whim years ago to solve a particular rider dilemma.
So to answer your question, I looked at the rectangular tube chart online and I believe the 2 rear bars are 1x2" and the pockets they slide into are 1.5 x 2.5" . They show it online in .120 and .083, so I think is .120" with out having it here. It has to side into the pockets. The two pockets are connected by a piece of 3" channel. It would be great to find some drops. If you can't and you have room, you could possibly get a length of 3" channel if you can get something behind it to draw from. I say that as in the scheme of things, 3" channel is one of the more affordable things that I buy when I need tough stuff. If you are buying 10 feet, just get a 20 and have them chop it in half as it is the same price.
Be safe. As you said there is lots of pressure on this bad boy. I don't know what you have to work with , but good penetrating oil with some time may help. So will heat. Some say heat and drawing wax in between the wheel and axle is the way. I like your idea of running it w/o the pins as a way to get this thing to budge.