Software
Houzz Logo Print
happyallison

Grout experts, Fusion Pro, Kerapoxy, Spectralock, Bostik?

11 years ago

Or Tec Power grout? I'm trying to choose something stain and mold resistant for my kitchen backsplash and master batbath. Thanks.

Comments (85)

  • PRO
    11 years ago

    Cost aside, epoxy can't be beat.

  • 11 years ago

    For sanity (from an installer standpoint), Flexcolor CQ blows it out of the water. ;^)

  • PRO
    11 years ago

    A number of good, new grouts out there. Each one has it's place.....

  • PRO
    11 years ago

    I agree. And most of the chemical grouts are AS GOOD as epoxy. But epoxy still sets the bar. As I said above, it can't be beat.

  • 11 years ago
    Thank you all for the advice.
  • 11 years ago

    Looking for grout for on the bathroom floor, in an area with litter boxes. One cat is prone to peeing on the floor. I want to make sure I get something quality that will be easy to clean. I have hired a pro for the install. I'd like to stick with premixed color, and may have to start, do half the floor, then do the other half a few days later (laundry area, moving washer/dryer). I've read thru this thread and done some research, but looking for a bit more input. I'm thinking the Mapei Flexcolor CQ, Custom Fusion Pro, and Laticrete (not sure which). I appreciate the suggestions.

  • PRO
    11 years ago

    Scarlett-- stick with epoxy. Mapei Opticolor, or Laticrete Spectralock. They'll clean up the best, and last the longest.

  • 10 years ago

    What grout would you pros recommend for use with marble 3x6 subway tile application on walls of remodeled bathroom? Also have a marble mosaic floor which will be grouted. Should we use the same grout for both applications?

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    I'd be using one of the new generation modified grouts, such as Laticrete's Permacolor. Not only do they offer more uniform color, but they also repel staining a lot better than the older generations.

  • 10 years ago

    I have a problem w soap stains on a charcoal grouted tile shower floor.. It's 2" x2" tile w 1/8 " grout lines. I used sanded grout and it's been a nightmare for years. I did seal it but doesn't seem to help. I was thinking of replacing it with plazma grout. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    Replacing it would be a nightmare. What you might try instead is coating it with a grout colorant. it's a one part epoxy coating that's very easy to keep clean.

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    Dig out at least half the depth of the tile before applying the new grout. Watch some of the Plasma YouTube videos by Laticrete before starting.

  • 10 years ago

    We used charcoal grout on our bathroom floor. Previously, I had white grout and couldn't stand all the work in trying to keep it bright white. No problems with the charcoal, but of course its not a shower where it would get a lot of soap scum.

  • 10 years ago

    Thanks for the advice.. Guess I'm gonna be scraping out some grout and trying the plasma.. Let all of u know the outcome.. Thanks again

  • 10 years ago

    Quite a good thread. I've read through it a bunch of times and I seem to learn something new each time.

    I've been giving myself a crash course in grout and from what I understand urethane grout has all the benefits of epoxy grout plus it's easier to work with. Only downside compared to epoxy is it takes seven days to set. Anyone who has personal experience with both disagree with this assessment?

    In addition to traditional cement grout, epoxy grout and urethane grout, there seems to be another category of premixed grout. Products like Custom Building Products' Fusion Pro & SimpleGrout, Mapei's Flexcolor QC and Laticrete's Plasma. They are priced between traditional and epoxy/urethane but unlike most epoxy/urethane grouts, they are readily available at Home Depot/Lowes (except Plasma).

    I don't know if there is a name for this category of grout but some positive comments have been made about them here. How do Fusion Pro and Flexcolor QC compare to epoxy/urethane? They seem to have many of the same benefits.

    I also understand these four are easier to use than epoxy/urethane; are they applied the same way as traditional grout or do they require a special technique? Is anyone of the four particularly easy to work with?

    Final question, and this is related to a specific application of mine, how heat resistant are these premixed grouts compared to epoxy/urethane?

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    Fusion and such are in a group called Acrylic grouts. They never change color. Never need sealing. Epoxy grouts tend to yellow over time, and start out with an amber color due to the A&B liquid parts of the mixture.

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    FWIW simplegrout is garbage and not part of the acrylic grout group. Its latex based.

  • 10 years ago

    This is the first time I've read that epoxy grout can discolor. I thought it was the gold standard and is even UV resistant so as not to discolor in the sun. So what is the benefit to spending so much more money on epoxy and dealing with the more difficult application?

    Acrylic grout won't discolor, is cheaper and is easier to apply than epoxy. And like epoxy it can be used on walls, floors, wet areas and outdoors. Is the only place epoxy has a real advantage for shower floors? I've read horror stories about Fusion Pro on bathroom floors.

    What about urethane, will it discolor? It's also more expensive and more difficult than acrylic so when is urethane the right choice?

    I read "Grouts without pigment-based color (urethane and epoxy) will not stain natural stone." How about acrylic grout? Will that stain natural stone if it's not sealed?

    I also read somewhere that one of these grouts is best for areas with a lot of heat fluctuation because it resists expansion better. I don't remember now but I'm guessing that's urethane?

    Regarding SimpleGrout being garbage, as in it is worse than traditional cement grout? Or just garbage compared to acrylic?

    Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to learn. Still have a few questions unanswered from my previous post. Any input is greatly appreciated.

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    Nope-- I've told people for years that they shouldn't use white epoxy for just that reason-- it takes on a yellowish tinge because of the epoxy matrix.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Thanks for helping clear the glitch out.

    Now... Calling all Permacolor fans!

    I think I need to go with cement grout on that mosaic tile. But there is Permacolor and Permacolor Select. Of course Laticrete makes both of them sound like one is better than the next so I'm not sure which to go with.

    Which version is the one people in this thread have been raving about?

    Either way, I want to know where Bill V is getting this for $25/25lb bag? I know it's been a year since he mentioned the price but has it really gone up that much so fast? Cheapest I found it was $35.

  • PRO
    10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Regular Permacolor is about $25 a bag here.. VERY good grout provided its within date code. They also have matching Latasil .

    DO read the instructions . We use Distilled bottled water if you have any concern of youre water source quality.

    permacolor Silver shadow w/carrara

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    You might be looking at Permacolor Select, which is the next generation. Standard Permacolor should still be about the same price.

  • 10 years ago

    Yeah, I was looking at the online price of local stores, which included the cost of shipping in their "free shipping." I went to the store and it was $23 a bag.

    Thanks for all the help guys.

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    Im curious if anyone has had issues using flexcolor or plasma on shower floors. we just had to pull a 12x24 from a shower floor and found all the areas by the grout joints were wet floor was allowed to cure for a full month

  • 10 years ago

    What about Fusion Pro (acrylic) or QuartzLock2 (urethane) on porcelain tiles over concrete radiant heated floors - does anyone know if either would perform better (or worse) due to the heat in the winter? The floors don't get above 80-85F.

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    Lyons pride-- Since urethane based grouts first came out, this has been an issue, and regardless of manufacturer's claims, I refuse to use it in a shower. This is the first time I've heard of a problem after giving it that long to cure, though.


    catmathy--Shouldn't be any difference in performance from either one, especially if they're getting grouted now, when the heating system really isn't cranking that much. I wouldn't want the system to get too awful warm while the grout's curing, because that could cause "stripes" in the grout where the pipes run in the concrete. But once it's cured, it shouldn't be a problem at all.


  • PRO
    10 years ago

    SInce this post my company has completely discontinued use of all urethane products with the exception of Bostick Dimensions and only in very special circumstances. My main supplier has also discontinued selling Flexcolor CQ and Plasma after major cleaning issues following their showroom remodel.....never thought Id say this but, bring on the epoxy

  • PRO
    10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Imagine 10 yrs from now as homes change hands and tilers or new homeowners cannot tell what type(acrylic/urethane etc) of grout was installed and all the future cleaning/regrout issues.

    Sanded grout works as it has for hundreds of years in the modern form of LATiCRETE Permacolor very well. why fix it?

    @Catmathy, you will be best served to let youre Tile install cure fully prior to testing youre heat, I will not install heat w/o a signed waiver of thinset and grout cure times being met prior to installing the thermostat and cranking it up for the very reason bill stated above. Grout and thinset fully cured....

  • 10 years ago

    I did not want to read this as I was about to go forward with Dimensions grout.

    I have a steam shower that is getting glass tile. I know glass tile is an application where Dimensions really shines (no pun intended). But now I'm worried about using it in a shower (and a steam shower no less) after reading this.

    While researching urethane grouts I've read about many problems that people have had in showers. But any complaint was usually followed by someone saying that it is fine in showers and the problem is due to installer error. Is urethane an inherently poor performer in showers or can a skilled installer get it right?

    @tundra One of the things to "fix" with sanded grout is discoloration. For hundreds of years that has been an issue. Why frown upon attempts to resolve this? I am putting in a lot of tile and I'd like for the grout not to discolor. I'm leaning towards using Fusion Pro on my floors because it won't discolor like sanded grout and it isn't as expensive as urethane or epoxy. And I don't recall Fusion Pro having any significant downsides other than it is more expensive than sanded grout. What are your thoughts

  • PRO
    10 years ago

    Excellent post. ^^^^^

  • 10 years ago

    Anyone have experience with Stainmaster epoxy grout? That's the only brand I can find that makes brightly colored grouts like red and yellow. Are there others?

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is a fantastic post! I have a question - we've installed Polished Carrara Marble Subway tile backsplash in the kitchen. The joints are 1/16" and I know that an unsanded grout should technically be used. After researching a lot, it seems that there can be some color inconsistencies in the grout, if the unsanded grout is not mixed perfectly. My preference would be to use a pre-mixed grout like the Flexcolor cq, Tec powerGrout 550, or Plasma; however, I'm VERY concerned that it might scratch the polished marble tiles. I will definitely be doing a test area; BUT, I don't want to have to buy all 3 grouts to see which one doesn't scratch. I'm wondering if anyone has used any of those 3 pre-mixed ones on polished marble with great results (no scratching, no picture framing stains etc). Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I've been putting off buying the grout for these reasons and we need to get it done.

    Oh, and If its not recommended to use a pre-mixed grout for marble tile, can anyone recommend a great unsanded grout to use that will not have color consistency issues? Cost isn't a factor - I want to buy the best and only the best as this project has cost us a lot of money already, it looks beautiful and I don't want it ruined with the wrong grout choice. My first thought was to use Tec Accucolor; but, not sure if it has color inconsistencies if mixed incorrectly, or too much water is used on wipe off? Thanks so much!

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    Use an excellent sealer for the marble before grouting - including the proper curing time - before grouting with any grout. I have not had scratching problems with Flexcolor or Fusion, but we do use a very soft, rubbery float more like a squeegee.

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    A great unsanded grout -- ArdexFG-C , in case it is needed .

    http://www.ardexamericas.com/en-us/Documents/TechData_En_FGC.pdf

  • 9 years ago

    For bathroom in Pure white, quartz tile mix with Thassos marble. Was going with SpectraPro Epoxy, until I read that white isn't pure white and looks yellow. What would be my best bet for "pure white" given cost isn't a factor. I am lazy, looking as maintenance free as possible.

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    Permacolor Select. It now has what used to be Stone Tech's sealer added to it,


  • PRO
    9 years ago

    The whitest white grout available is Mapei's Avalanche. This is a picture of the A&B parts of Spectralock mixed in a white bucket.

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    Ardex FL has a bright white that ive been using and i favor it over my go to grout. permacolors white. The brightest ive seen w/ no yellow hue.

  • 9 years ago

    Thanks guys, after doing some research based on info here, been reading some horror stories about flexcolor in wet areas. I've seen reports of it dissolving into a mess. I think Epoxy is the best option will do test sample to see if silver shadow will work on white tiles. Bathroom gets a ton of direct sunlight so I am hoping non-white epoxies will hold up to the Sun.

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    Fusion, flexcolor and Plasma have clear instructions to wait 7 days before using the shower. It takes a spell to cure, but is well worth the wait IMHO. It is our go-to grout.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Does anyone have experience with Stainmaster Crystal Glass grout? http://tiledoctor.com/products/stainmaster-grout-products/stainmaster-crystal-glass-tile-grout/

    This is an epoxy made for glass tile and it comes in red which I am looking for but is very hard to find. Good for use in a steam shower?

    If not, what color grout would you use for red and yellow glass tile? I see that white is often used but I'm not a fan of that look. Any suggestions on what color grout would work well with those?

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    We are renovating our bathroom and getting ready to tile the walls and floor of a walk-in shower. Does anyone have a recommendation between the Laticrete SpectraLOCK Pro which I've read many positive comments about verses STAINMASTER epoxy grout which is sold at Lowe's but I haven't seen too many reviews about this product? Any input is much appreciated. We plan to stay in this house so I want to make sure we use the best product regardless of price or ease of acquiring it. Thanks!

  • PRO
    9 years ago

    Simple really. Laticrete is a tile specialty company.....Stainmaster makes carpet too. Id stay with the specialist on this one if it was mine or one of my clients. One thing, follow the directions to the letter. Do not deviate.

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is a silly comment. Don't buy a washing machine from Samsung because they make TV's. Don't buy a watch from Apple because they make computers... I can go on and on.

    Stainmaster makes lots of stuff including cleaning products and even tile itself. None of these Stainmaster products should be discounted simply because the others exist. By your logic you shouldn't even buy Stainmaster carpet because they make tile, instead you should buy carpet from a "specialist" who makes nothing but carpet.

    Stainmaster doesn't make their grout products and they really have nothing to do with the grout business other than name. Their grout products are made by an Italian company named Litokol and every grout you can find with the Stainmaster name can be purchased from Litokol and they even have the same color codes. When you buy Stainmaster you are getting Litokol. And if you contact Stainmaster for information about their grouts they will redirect you to a company called Tile Doctor who handles 100% of the Stainmaster grout business in the US including distribution.

    Anyway, long story short is that Stainmaster grout might actually be crap. But it should not be excluded from consideration simply because "Stainmaster makes carpet too." Just plain silly. The correct reason to guide people away from Stainmaster grout would be negative first hand experiences by yourself or others. Or some identifiable flaw with the product itself rather than the name on the product.

    As I mentioned a few posts ago, I myself am considering Stainmaster grout and would love to get some feedback from people who have experience with it. Anyone?

    Sorry for my mini rant. People come here for serious advice and I hate to see someone get misdirected with advice that is based on flawed logic. I know from experience my tone in situations like this comes across as harsh but I don't mean it that way. It's just the only way I know how to get points like this across. And I hope it helps people make better decisions.

  • 6 years ago

    I'm updating this old and very informative thread to say that since these comments were posted, Laticrete has released a new grout called Spectralock 1 as of December 2019 that meets the ANSI standards for epoxy grout but is neither epoxy- nor cement-based. It is suitable in wet environments and has a lengthier working time that traditional epoxy. However, it cannot be used in food preparation areas where high chemical resistance is needed.

    Also, Mapei has released a new grout since most of these comments were made which is called Ultracolor Plus FA. It is a rapid-setting grout that isn't an epoxy but is a fine-aggregate, polymer-modified grout that performs better than cement-based grout in areas where high stain resistance is desired such as in kitchens. It is a rapidly setting grout so needs to be worked in small areas at a time with care given to clean-up of tile.

  • 5 years ago

    I am updating this thread with new information as well: Spectralock 1 works well....if your tiles are natural stone or you have zero lippage. If there is any lippage, the higher lip will not hold the grout and will show through. This is an issue with porcelain tile. Epoxy grout is better here.

  • 5 years ago

    We used Tec Power Grout in all our ceramic wood look tie flooring in our hall and both bathrooms. They look super. We have had them several years. No issues with the grout. Our experienced tiler and many flooring installers love the Tec Power Grout.

  • 3 years ago

    Since this was one of the posts that popped up as I was researching, I'll comment. I ended up using flexcolor CQ and couldn't be happier with the results. Highly recommend.

  • 3 years ago

    I'll update with my experience with Fusion Pro after a few years of use. I see nothing special at all about it. My lighter colors have become dirty and impossible to clean just like regular grout. And my dark grouts have turned light. Based on all the hype I was expecting a superior experience and a lower maintenance product. But I have no idea what is so special about Fusion Pro. It's more expensive, harder to apply and no better than traditional cement grout. What am I missing?