$80 seems excessive for basic cans. There are now different "temperatures" for LED's. 2700K is a warm white. 2800K is the equivalent of a 100W incandescent flood, still on the "warm" end of the spectrum. 3000K = a 100W halogen. So, you are looking for something in the 2700-2800 range. The only thing to watch for is what depth of can size you need in your ceiling, based upon insulation, etc.

I thought the price was crazy too. The sales person told me that the cheaper lights from HD and Lowes give off the blue light. I've also read reviews on LED's flickering when dimmed, buzzing or being crazy bright. I'm going to test them out, but if any designers had tried and true brands that would be very helpful. Many lights specified are 4" Gimble, however our housing is already big, so I'm looking for a fixture that covers the larger hole, but the actual light is smaller than 6".

We have lots of can lights, and instead of inserting LEDs with the integral flange ($$$) we chose to use LED floodlights and white flanges. Not quite as seamless a look, but way cheaper and we can vary the bulbs if we want. It's worth buying good bulbs, Cree or similar. Yes, some bulbs hum when dimmed, but so far those have only been the cheap ones.

Update: I haven't tried two fixtures that I purchased because, the Luminus is 3000K which is too bright and another fixture in a green an white box(honestly no brand name) has a light that is too big. I'm trying to make the light smaller. My husband installed a 5" 6" Halo(the expensive one, they lowered the price to $70) and seemingly the same fixture with same model # and everything from Lowes 2 pak for $52. Catalog No RL560WH6927. How could one retail for $44 more just because it's in a show room and be the same exact fixture by Cooper Lighting? Well side by side, the $70 version is slightly more yellow. I can see it on the gray cabinets and from across the room. BUT, neither is blue or flickering. The Lowes version is slightly brighter. I'm wondering if this could be because the boutique version is older as the LED's are supposed to dim with age, not burn out. This could make sense as I doubt most people want to pay nearly 3x's as much for the same thing just because it's at a lighting store. They are both 2700K, 90CRI, Dimmable to 5%, 5 year Warrenty Halo LED by Cooper Lighitng. The Lowes version had black marks on the white baffle. I will have to be more selective when I go back to get more. Anybody that can shed some light on the difference would be helpful!

This statement by sooz001 is false and misleading.

"There are now different "temperatures" for LED's. 2700K is a warm white. 2800K is the equivalent of a 100W incandescent flood, still on the "warm" end of the spectrum. 3000K = a 100W halogen."

There is nothing "100Watt" about color.

Which is probably the reason for this statement;

"I haven't tried two fixtures that I purchased because, the Luminus is 3000K"

Lumens have nothing to do with degrees Kelvin.

Lumens are how bright the bulb is. A 6" housing will generally have a 75 Watt incandescent bulb in them originally. Here is the approximate translation from a standard bulb in Watts to Lumens which is now the standard measure of brightness for a bulb.

The color temperature is measured in degrees Kelvin.

And the lighting package should have this on it.

The color rendering index is an approximate way of determining how full the spectrum of light is from the bulb. 100 is the "perfect" score based on a standard incandescent bulb.

For the record, a halogen is also an incandescent bulb. It just has a different gas and filament inside the bulb, which makes it glow brighter and whiter.

I'd use the Cooper lights over the store brand. I sell a lot of Cooper LED lights and they are a very well built, reliable product with excellent support. Of the thousands of Cooper pot lights I have sold I have only ever had one bad batch which all came from the same production run. They replaced them without question.

We often see more expensive versions of the "same" LED module sold at different suppliers. It is common practice for manufacturers to build a fixture specifically for the large "warehouse" stores, and sometimes these fixtures appear to be exactly the same. Same specs, color temperature, CRI, lumens, etc. In my experience what often gets overlooked is the rated lifetime of the fixture and the manufacturer warranty. In this case the expensive model was rated for 50,000 hours avg. lifespan, while the cheaper unit only averaged 30,000 hours. The warranties included varied just as much. Just make sure to compare all aspects before you make your decision.

I have tested about brands of LED lights. My favorites are Lithonia and RAB. With baffle. Use the 6BPMW Lithonia brand.

RAB is great. About $40 each. I am choosing it.

Check out our store. We make all of our downlights in house in California and at an extremely competitive price point. We make our lights with an LED Driver on board which means the LED Chip and Driver all all on the Same Board, which eliminates the need for another soldering point which can cause buzzing and humming. Our lights are so quiet and an incredible value, all variations you want too!

"Specs" is an abbreviation for "Specifications" not "specifics"