It's not bad, really, but you do have several issues. Let's go through step by step.

Exchange Capacity: 7 is fine, and indicates a sandier soil with silt--and very little clay. You can increase your organic matter levels to slowly raise this a bit.

Organic Matter: 2.17% is low but not abysmal. Feed organically when you can to slowly raise this. It'll also make your pH matter less. Bermuda's demanding, and this year will include a lot of starter fertilizer. Still, you can add in an extra organic feeding whenever you like to increase this. The grass won't mind the extra nitrogen.

Sulfur 27: Right in the normal range, with plenty of margin for soil amendments (which tend to be sulfur based).

Phosphorus 65: And right on cue, here's an issue. Phosphorus should be around 200 for a normal pH and for Bermuda. This is severely impacting grass quality. My recommendations are below.

Calcium 54%: Low, we'll want this in the 65% range for Bermuda. Because magnesium levels are normal, we'll need to use a calcitic lime like Mir-A-Cal or Encap. Cheap lime is going to destroy the calcium-magnesium ratio.

Magnesium 12%: Exactly where it should be, no adjustment required.

Potassium 3.4%: While a touch trim, it's nothing to worry about. With all the other adjustments, I'm content to let this ride another year.

Most Minor Elements: Fine except boron...

Boron <0.2: Deficient, and this is also impacting your grass quality. While I wouldn't normally adjust the minor elements while also doing two major ones, this is an exception to that rule.

To adjust boron, mix the recommended number of tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax (available in the laundry section of your supermarket) in 1 bag of Milorganite (Home Depot or other retailer) in a wheelbarrow. Keep mixing until fully distributed, then put in your spreader and apply at exactly the recommended rate. One bag of Milo covers 2,500 square feet. Don't overapply; boron can be an issue if amounts go too high, although the levels I have you set at will be fine at any reasonable error level.

Iron 123: While this is certainly not deficient, you may notice the color of your lawn fades a bit as the calcium works in and the pH rises (higher pH levels block iron absorption). If that's disappointing, you can slip in extra feeding with Milorganite whenever you want to add more iron and deepen the color.

Recommendations:

I'm guessing for Georgia and Bermuda that the grass is back and functional around mid-April. That might be wrong, so if so, just shift the feeding with starter fertilizer around appropriately. Just keep 2 weeks between any feeding and a soil amendment, so this schedule has a great deal of flexibility in it. I'm also guessing last feeding will be around October 15.

April 1: Apply 4 pounds per thousand square feet Encap or Mir-A-Cal calcitic limestone.

April 15: Feed with any off the shelf starter fertilizer at bag rate.

May 1: Apply 7.5 tablespoons borax in Milorganite per 2,500 square feet.

May 15: Starter at bag rate.

June 15: Starter at bag rate.

July 15: Feed with a high-nitrogen fertilizer.

August 15: Feed with a high-nitrogen fertilizer.

September 1: Apply 4 pounds per thousand square feet Encap or Mir-A-Cal calcitic limestone.

September 15: Starter at bag rate.

October 1: Apply 7.5 tablespoons borax in Milorganite per 2,500 square feet.

October 15: Starter at bag rate.

Great analysis! Everything seems pretty straightforward. For a starter fertilizer, something like Lesco 18-24-12 should suffice? And do you have a preference on either Mir-A-Cal or Encap? I'm leaning Encap on my quick google search but will look into it more later this evening.

Thanks again for the awesome recommendations! This definitely helps get me going.

Whatever starter fertilizer that's in that range and is cheapest is great. If that's Lesco, it's good stuff.

I have no preference between Mir-A-Cal and Encap, so whichever is easier to get (or, again, cheaper) is perfect. Any other calcium carbonate based very finely ground (and pelletized if you prefer) calcitic lime will also be fine, just keep the magnesium percentages as low as possible. Under 1% is best, but anything under 5% would be no problem. Amounts may adjust depending on which one you end up with--my numbers were for Mir-A-Cal or Encap.