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optimal jade plant soil

11 years ago

So i just purchased a small jade plant and would like to eventually make it into a bonsai style jade. I have done some research and have found a number of different soil mix methods. I currently have regular soil, cacti/succulent soil, pebbles, some mulch and organic matter, pine bark and some charcoal. What would be the best mix for my new jade plant? I also have a small cactus. could i use the same soil mixture?

Thanks!

Comments (19)

  • 11 years ago

    Most of us on here recommend Als gritty mix. You can search for it on here and find a ton of information about it. There are a few who haven't make the switch yet, but I'd say ~90% of us use it. It's equal parts turface, bark fines, and crushed granite; sifted to remove all the fine particles.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    As growers, our proficiency is defined by how well we identify and eliminate the things that limit our plants - the things that keep them from realizing the genetic potential Mother Nature endowed them with. The best soils are the ones that come as close to 'nonlimiting' as possible. The one property of soils that presents the most limitations is the amount of water they hold at container capacity. Container capacity is the measure of how much water a soil retains after it was fully saturated and just stopped draining. If parts of the soil are completely saturated and devoid of air, the saturation limits root function and can cause root diseases, usually fungal in nature. Soils based on a very high %s of fine ingredients (peat, compost, coir, composted forest products, topsoil, fine sand ...... hold more water than most of us consider conducive to good root health. Ideally, the particles a soil is made of would be large enough that they can't hold water in the spaces between the particles. This means that roots always have access to the air they need to drive root function/metabolism, no matter where the roots are located in the pot.

    The soil Deva mentioned is designed to hold water on the surface of particles, at the interface where particles touch each other, and inside of particles, but not in the spaces between the particles, leaving them full of air from the top of the pot to the bottom.

    That's a short overview, but there is much more information to be had on the topic of soils - depending on how deep your interests run and how invested in the growing experience you plan on being.

    Best luck.

    Al

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    do you think I could use a mix of my coarse sand and pine bark? I just dont want to spend a ton of money on big bags of these ingredients for one tiny plant. Just looking for a cheaper alternative to work with the materials that I have. Is there somewhere I can get the ingredients in smaller sizes? Also will I be able to take a leaf from my jade and propagate it with Al's mix? This plant will be indoors if that makes a difference.

    my sand looks just like this:

    http://lghttp.30510.nexcesscdn.net/80C676/com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/9/39931.jpg

  • 11 years ago

    Hard to say w/o knowing how large the particles are, but I would suggest that even if the particles are of an appropriate size, you're going to need something additional that holds more water than the bark and coarse sand. If the sand particles are >.100 and <.187 it would be great as one fraction. Add the screened bark and get a small bag of Schultz aquatic plant soil or some NAPA oil dry (I think the part # is 8822). Screen, mix, and you're good to go.


    Al


  • 11 years ago

    Al,


    Is there a guide that goes along with this mix? I still have some questions. For example, will germinated seeds grow in this mix or is it best for plants that are already grown. How often do I need to water? etc.

  • 11 years ago

    It takes a little getting used to. I start most cuttings, including woody material, in it. If I was starting seeds, I'd sow them on top of a small amount of soil and cover them with a thin layer of peat or fines I screened out of the Turface. I'd mist the top of the soil often enough to keep it from drying and maybe use some sort of tenting

    How often you'll need to water can vary considerably, depending on how the soil is made, the ratio of the ingredients, cultural conditions (sun, wind, temperature, soil volume in relation to root and foliage mass ......). Indoors, I water everything I grow every 4-8 days, with most succulents going 8 days between waterings, and I use smaller pots than most growers use. In the summer time, I water most things every other day; some things in small pots get watered daily. The soil holds more water than you might think, but care must be taken to be sure the soil remains adequately hydrated at the level the roots are located. That means if you pot a plant with roots just below the surface, you might need to water daily or even twice daily if the plant is sited where it will dry quickly. After the plant is established, watering and fertilizing is remarkably easy.


    Al

  • 11 years ago

    Great info. Thank you.

    Is there a premade mix that you recommend? I dont want to buy 3 large bags of ingredients for my plant. Or do you know of a place that sells stuff in smaller quantities? I went to rePotme however they do not let you purchase single scoops.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    No, but 50% perlite and 50% cactus soil (premade, some of them but not others) will get you by in most cases. Your experience may vary.


    deva,

    Really do you think so? 9/10? I know there were a few recalcitrants with me, but are we so few?

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    anyone have experience with this mix? its only $20 for a gallon. Turface MVP, Small granite chips, and pine bark.

    http://www.repotme.com/potting-mix/Gritty-Mix.html

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    $20 for a gallon - that's a lot! You could buy a 50lb bag of turface for less than that. And do you have to pay shipping on top of that?

    But I understand if you need just a small amount...

    It does look good thou.

  • 11 years ago

    I bought some of the bonsai soil that you mentioned, I think it's the 75/27 inorganic/organic version. Works really well so far for me, though I had to screen it for consistency because you can get really big pieces of rocks/granite/bark in them. And I live in NYC, so it is definitely more cost saving for me to buy it online than renting a car and drive out of state to gather the each ingredients for the mix.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Then you get top dressing for free? Excellent, bernardy, excellent.

  • 11 years ago

    mcharris, I don't really understand what's your problem against my comment, but I was just sharing my experience with TS about purchasing via repotme. And geez, I just joined this community thinking it's a really nice environment for people to share their thoughts and support each other, but I wasn't really expecting this hostile/judgmental attitude

  • 11 years ago

    Chris - the "gritty" mix from Repotme differs significantly from the version many of us make, in that it includes all the fines from the materials used in making it. IOW - nothing is screened, so there is still that perched water/soggy soil issue to deal with. Undoubtedly, it's going to work better than probably 90% of the 'off the shelf' media aimed at cacti and succulents, but it has at least that 1 inherent limitation a properly screened gritty mix doesn't have.


    Al

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    It's not at all judgmental or anything of that nature, bernardy - I think you're reading something into it that is not there in the least. I was thinking that not only did you get the soil you wanted, but top dressing, too. How that's hostile / not of your liking is beyond me. Gosh, I was happy for you - reading your comment, I wonder how you could possibly have come to the conclusion you did.

  • 11 years ago

    I'm so sorry, I must have mis-read. For some weird reason I thought saw sarcasm in your comment.

  • 11 years ago

    The link OP posted link seems to show aqarium gravel. Will certainly last a while, but it's not very pourus it offers very little in retention. I imagine it could be used as part of a top dressing.

    I don't think the gravel would be a top dressing preferance for many bonsia experianced.

    Happy growing



  • 11 years ago

    What makes an excellent top dressing for plants is white Gran-I-Grit in Grower or Turkey size. It's heavy, so won't blow away, and the white surface not only reflects light (which turns to heat if it contacts dark soil) to help keep root temps lower, the added reflected light helps keep lower leaves of plants working more effectively, which means plants retain them longer, remain fuller, and realize more of their potential. Anything else that would be heavy/white/reflective would work as well, but the grit is prescreened and requires no additional effort other than perhaps rinsing off any dust.


    Al