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hancockheather

Quick help please! Orientation for rectangular floor tile

10 years ago

This isn't exactly a kitchen question, but more a flooring question for a space that abuts the kitchen. The flooring board is very quiet, and you guys are so active, and I need to decide this asap, so I'm posting it here, I hope that's okay.


I'm putting in a mudroom off the kitchen and family room, taking part of the garage. The hardwood flooring in the kitchen (off the right of the layout below) and the family room (large open area) goes left-right if looking at the layout. I'm picking up 12x24 charcoal slate tile tomorrow or Tuesday for the mudroom/laundry (orange rooms in the layout below). Which way should I orient the tile?


More info:


o Tile ends at the 3' pocket door near the washer, hardwood starts just outside that door, running left-right, and blends into family room. There is a step up to kitchen on right, also hardwood.


o In layout below, the mudroom and laundry are separated by a half-wall on one side and a full wall on the other side of a 42" walkway -- so it looks like two separate spaces in the layout but is really more like one space.


o Outside the mudroom door on the left of the layout will be a flagstone exterior landing, probably 3' x 7' or so, parallel to the house wall. I'm guessing the flagstone will be mixed shapes squares and rectangles, with the rectangles likely oriented parallel to the house to mimic the shape of the landing? Color will be charcoal, just like the tile in the mudroom.


o Counters in laundry and mudroom bench will be butcher block, with some striation to the wood. There will also be a runner rug down the laundry room.


Layout options:


o Tile installer recommended (without considering the hardwood orientation) the tile go top-bottom if looking at the layout, laid in a running bond (50% overlap) pattern (brick pattern). Hubby and I like this way because it lessens the bowling-alley feel of the long room, because the tile goes width-wise across the rooms. But this makes the tile run perpendicular to the hardwood floor at the doorway separating the laundry from the wood hall / family room. Is that a no-no? Do we need to have it run left-right (long-wise down the room) to look okay? Or maybe the recommended way is okay because it mirrors the orientation of the slate colored landing outside . . .


o Hubby and I really don't like the lengthening effect of laying it parallel to the wood, looking like a bowling-alley. We are trying to avoid having to use this pattern. Unless you say we have to :).


o What about a herringbone pattern, not on a diagonal? Is this too busy? Too big of tiles for the space to handle a pattern? Too trendy? Too unusual? I'm going for timeless farmhouse :). A pattern incorporating both directions of tile would make both the wood orientation and outside landing happy . . .


Tiler is coming next week. I'm pickup up tile early this week. Please help! Any ideas or input would be soooo appreciated.


mudroom with slate oriented the way I like it (across rather than parallel), but adjacent wood floor is parallel (mine would be perpendicular):

slate meeting wood both going parallel long-wise (bowling alley):



Comments (10)

  • 10 years ago

    I was already thinking that I would like it perpendicular, before I got to the part of the post where your tile installer recommended perpendicular and you and your husband want perpendicular.


  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I don't like the last photo mostly because it seems like there should be a transition strip? Any way I have a mudrroom off my kitchen too and the tile are running the same way as the wood. It's not a large midroom.

    If it's a midroom then you will be putting down a carpet of some kind, right? To catch mud, debris, snow, etc. the rugs will break up the tile enough that I don't think you would get the bowling alley effect. Here is mine. I also don't have a transition strip because we are not quite done.

  • 10 years ago

    Thank you Infinity!


    Lily: Yes, I would be putting down a rug, likely rectangular in front of the mudroom bench and a runner in the laundry. My space is much longer than yours, more like 16' long by 9' wide, so I'm worried about the bowling alley. Yours doesn't have that, though, maybe because it's shorter and looks like a continuation of the hallway.

  • 10 years ago

    Yes mine is much smaller and almostly completely covered in carpets due to two dirty dogs :)

  • 10 years ago

    I like the direction of the tile in the first picture. No bowling alley. :-)

    I would do one piece of the wood parallel to the tile in the doorway and then the wood going perpendicular from there. Just a quick picture I found, but something like this?


  • 10 years ago

    Bunky, I love the picture, it's so helpful. Yes I definitely need a perpendicular piece like that, it makes total sense. Thank you so much. I think I'm feeling more comfortable with the non-bowling-alley way . . .

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    No 50% offset with large format tile. You must use no more than 33% offset, and it needs a medium bed mortar for setting, NOT thinset. The floor also must be prepped properly for large format. It has to be very stiff (google deflectolator) and very flat. No more than 1/8" in 8'. If that preparation and conditions are not met, you will get lippage and cracked tiles.

    I vote for herringbone pattern. It satisfies the offset requiements, and although there is more cutting and fussing needed by an installer (more $ for labor) it's a nicer result when working with relatively dark tile.

  • 10 years ago

    Thanks Sophie, I appreciate your input.

  • 10 years ago

    I like the first picture over the second. I just installed 12"x12" natural black slate tile with a 6"x12" border in my kitchen. I put it on a diagonal. If I were using your size tile, I would do the running bond across the room rather than the length of the room. I also used a dark grout, charcoal rather than lighter grout. I had to use a transition strip because the proper underlayment raised the level of the tile enough to require a transition strip. You may have to do the same. It's not the end of the world. It protects the tile and wood floor and provides a visual cue that the level is changing. We don't even notice it anymore.


  • 10 years ago

    Thanks home chef. I've decided to do it the first way like you said, and I'll find the closest dark gray grout color. My tile setter said the 50% overlap is fine because it's natural stone (so it doesn't bow in the middle). I feel better about it, thanks!