LED lighting in "new construction"

11 years ago

I am remodeling my home which has almost no overhead lighting so I will be installing cans throughout the house. It's not new construction but from a lighting perspective it is pretty much the same as new construction.

From what I can tell there are two ways to go: 1) Actual LED cans 2) Regular cans with LED retrofit trim kit

You would think the Internet would be loaded with information comparing the two options in great detail but true comparisons are hard to come by. If you have links to any, please share because I couldn't find any. The owner of a local upscale lamp store even had a hard time explaining the pros and cons of each.

From what I can tell the advantage of the retrofit is that you can more easily replace the bulb with whatever new technology might come up in the future. And of course you can use them in existing cans, but this doesn't apply to me because I have no cans and can install whatever type of can I want.

On the other hand, I can't find any advantages of using actual LED cans, but there must be some advantage or nobody would use them/they wouldn't exist. Nothing I've read has suggested that these lights are more efficient, produce better color, provide more coverage or anything of the sort. Even cost is comparable.

So what gives? Even in a new construction why wouldn't you use a standard can with LED retrofit kit every time? What am I missing?

One of the most important things for me is to have a bulb that will not flicker or buzz when dimmed with Lutron RadioRa dimmers. But as far as I know that can be achieved with either type.

Can someone please shed some light on this?

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Comments (3)

David
11 years ago
If you are looking at 4" or 6" can lights, there is no significant difference.

Halo makes LED cans - cans specifically meant to fit with their own LED modules by virtue of the connector.

In some places like CA, it may make sense to use the Halo can & led module due to Title 24.

For 2" cans, it makes sense given the need to dissipate the heat generated by the led emitters.
uscpsycho
Original Author
11 years ago
I'm in CA and my contractor suggests using retrofit kits. Why would it make more sense to use an actual LED can instead of retrofit?

I see an advantage to using a retrofit kit because you can use different bulbs. You can even use non-LED lights. So that seems like a significant difference in design, even if there may not be a significant difference in performance.

So I don't see why you'd ever use something other than a retrofit kit. What swings the decision away from using retrofit?
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David
11 years ago
If you are adding recessed lights in the kitchen area, the can must not have an E26 connector due to Title 24 regulations.

If you're putting in the CR6 or CR4 (which is the LED module), you'd need to get the GU24 version and get the can with the female half of the GU24 connector (probably from a different manufacturer).

Your local supply house should have the necessary parts. If you're sourcing stuff on your own, it just might be easier to buy the light + can kit.

There are 2 - 3 components here
1. There is a new construction and a remodel can - the main difference being that the former is intended to be nailed to the ceiling joists whereas the latter is clipped onto the ceiling board. Other potential differences - airtight and insulation contact rating. If the can is specifically made for CFL, there will be a ballast. NB - CFL cans are on the way out - too expensive compared to the LED solutions.
For the Kitchen, under Title 24, the socket cannot be E26 so that you cannot screw in an incandescent bulb.

2. The bulb or module which will fit into the can. If you are looking at a Cree CR series module vs a Halo module,+ can, the CR module performs better, but it might be a hassle to make sure that both parts fit.

Under Title 24 no more than 50% of the wattage can be used for incandescent. Since CFLs and LEDs are far more efficient than incandescents, you could end up with way more light than necessary.

A recessed can is a very good heat trap which could cause CFL bulbs to burn out prematurely.

3. The trim ring if you use a A19 or PAR or BR light bulb and not a CR6 or RT6 type lamp. The trim ring itself will cost at least $10 - $20.

Of course, there are tricks that people play to get around Title 24 which I would strongly advise against doing.