@Flooret, had never heard of Modin but looked online and it has awesome specs. We bought a 1950s house on piers 11 years ago and a few years later ripped out carpet in one room and replaced with Trafficmaster Allure mahogany. Over time installed throughout house but then it started showing wear and gaps at some seams. Looking for a medium to dark brown. Most walls are SW Ebbtide, kitchen SW Fun Yellow. Any suggestions?

Thanks, @Flooret. I guess I didn't use good examples of the colors I'm seeking. The samples you showed are showing up as a bit too pale, but I like the grain.

Due to the differences in colors on monitors, its hard to really show what I'm looking for. Here's an example of one that looked nice-- it has more color saturation.

I'll have to try to get pictures of my existing kitchen floor, but its in bad shape.

The above floor was described as floating which I think is loose-lay rather than click?

I'll have to measure my hallway to figure out how many boards it would take to fill it-- I think 9" might be a bit too wide, but I would really have to see more examples.

I think the "Imber" Modin floor actually has a nice color/pattern.

If it does not have underlayment, I would prefer to get an underlayment to help insulate the floor.

Do you know if that flooring is carried in any specific stores? I do not have many flooring stores in my area-- I actually have to drive an hour away to get to any places that sell flooring.

@Hal, sorry to hear that your flooring didn't hold up. I thought about getting some Allure flooring, but I checked the ratings/reviews and saw it was not very durable.

I found a website that lets you sort of preview the flooring in a pre-designed room. I don't think it lets you change wall color or furniture or anything, but it lets you see how the flooring would look at different angles.

Armstrong Luxe vinyl plank

Just click on a sample color that you like and then choose to see it in the room.

zannej, you can see the full range of color options offered here (as well as order samples):

http://www.flooret.com/modin-vinyl-plank-flooring/

Floating floors are generally click, correct. Loose-lay is a newer construction method that has a mixed track-record. It involves floating the planks, but without any click mechanism. The floor is designed with tiny "suction cups" on the back, which in theory are supposed to keep it in place. In practice it can move, and create tiny gaps between the planks.

Most vinyl plank does not require an underlayment, and the same applies for Modin. Vinyl itself is actually a great insulator (think vinyl siding on homes, for example). The only time an underlayment might be considered is if you want sound control. In such cases a vinyl-specific underlayment needs to be used (as opposed to a standard wood/laminate underlayment, which is too soft and can lead to the click mechanism failing).

Also, regarding availability, you can order Modin samples and the flooring itself through that link. It ships nationwide.

Just to introduce another road bump in the plans, it is wise to understand that 99% of vinyl plank products do NOT like "under pad". If you look CAREFULLY with the installation instructions you will notice the instructions talk about plywood (different types) or concrete. They do NOT mention "under pad". CoreTech is one of the FEW vinyls that "allow" 1/8" cork underlay/underpad.

And to be clear, the cork bottom layer (the integrated under pad) is rarely water proof. They may have added some sort of chemical to make it water proof, but as a rule cork 'under pad' is NOT water resistant.

A vapour barrier CANNOT be used over a wood substrate. This is a buider's "no-no". Plastic sheeting/vapour barrier over plywood will do more damage to the PLYWOOD than preventative measures that you were hoping for. You can use a moisture RETARDANT...but not a vapour barrier.

And vinyl planks want FLAT subfloors. They really, really, really want FLAT! So many clients will install over a "less-than-flat" subfloor only to have problems inside of 1 year. The website www.thefloorpro.com sees this issue over and over and over again. The general consensus for vinyl has a MAXIMUM floor variation of 3mm over 3meters (1/8" over 10 feet).

A poorly controlled indoor space wreaks HAVOC on vinyl planked floors. Again, people who have this form of indoor environment have big, big problems with vinyl plank.

I'm sorry to say, but this form of product may not be "appropriate" for your situation. A sheet vinyl product would be more appropriate for your situation. I fear that you have too many concerns to allow a vinyl plank to thrive. With a tight flooring budget, I would hate to see you put out all that money only to have things shrink, curl, discolour and "gap" because of the installation conditions.

Sheet vinyl, sheet lino, porcelain/ceramic are all water proof and can work in poor humidity control (hot and humid). Vinyl plank is far more delicate than the sales people let on.

Thanks, Cancork. I didn't really think that the cork part was waterproof. I've had friends who installed vinyl plank in bathrooms and thus far are happy. I don't believe my floor has more than 1/8 difference height anywhere, but I'm not certain. I could always use self-leveling mix to even it out.

Vinyl sheet is ruled out because that is some of what we want to replace in the hallway. It just got destroyed. I installed vinyl sheet in my bathroom by myself and it was not a pleasant experience. They don't make vinyl sheets wide enough to cover my kitchen.

I'm going to add some insulation to the walls and put up some wall panels in one of the problem areas. We have central air which keeps most of the rooms at a decent temperature/humidity, but the one back hallway is a problem because the builders didn't put insulation in the walls. That whole area is getting gutted and re-done.

I really do appreciate the information and advice. I especially appreciate the info about the vapor barrier. Would using something like Thompson's Water Seal be good for the plywood? I heard there is a version of water seal that can go over vinyl planks, but I don't know how well that would work.

If you're interested in feedback from people who have installed COREtec in their homes, there's a discussion titled "Anyone used Coretec?" with over 550 comments in it. For some weird reason, it isn't coming up when I do a search on "Coretec" so here's a link to it: [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/anyone-used-coretec-dsvw-vd~2388434[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/anyone-used-coretec-dsvw-vd~2388434)

if you like the look of coretec pick out a couple colors and ill send you samples. have done several jobs and really think product is top notch.

@N Hance D Flooring....what color Coretec is the picture on the bottom left (with the island)

Blackstone oak

@zannej, since your house is on piers and is old (like ours), double check that you have a moisture barrier on the ground in the crawlspace.

We plan to install Modin once moisture barrier is installed in crawl space and buckled wood is repaired.

First pic shows thickness of Karndean Opus line (light gray, Magna) next to Modin. See how much thicker.

Second pic has two shades of Modin locked together. Reddish brown is Imber, the other is Barin.

Have you tried core Tec or coretec xl kings wood oak,Olympic pine in coretec plus , mission oak in coretec xl both come with cork backing attached. They are 8.3 mil thick and connect similar to laminates if purchasing make sure you get brand new z locking system most people are not aware there was another recent locking system change from a system

Thanks, Hal. I don't know if I would call the area under the house a crawl space. I don't know if the house actually has proper footings. Its sitting on concrete blocks that are sort of triangular with the top cut flat. Not sure what is under them. The house is not sealed up very well-- I discovered that there was no floor between some of the walls. I don't know how we would do a moisture barrier under there. I know there are a couple of spots in carpeted areas where the floor feels a little soft and there is an obvious bump-- not sure if something slipped off the support or what.

The Imber looks nice.

Thanks for the info N"Hance". Nice name. Do you have any links or images of those floors?

@zannej...All modern flooring choices require that the exposed dirt under the house (what we call a crawl space...even though not many people can fit underneath) REQUIRES a properly installed vapour barrier (normally heavy black plastic sheeting properly taped/sealed seams). This is going to be Numer A1 on your list of things to do. This will stop the dampness and allow you to maintain warranty on any floor you install. You can find a spot where you can enter the space and open it up. Shine a flash light into the space to see if there is plastic or exposed earth. You do the work that you see needs doing once you look underneath your home.

If you want insulation under the vinyl, the Coretec is one of the vinyl floor products that allows underlay/pad. CoreTec allows 3mm cork underlay. This doesn't sound like much...but it is 3 times MORE insulation than is allowed under any other vinyl.

To lay CoreTec, you will need to level your subfloor...remove the waviness from it and remove anything that feels spongy. I have no doubt you have rotten boards in that floor. Those need to be found, removed and replaced.

If you don't want to level the subfloor then you HAVE to go with a flexible vinyl that is glued in place (loose lay won't work because the click edges will "unzip" if the subfloor is wavy). You should choose which is more important: an insulated vinyl floor or a vinyl floor that can handle a wavy subfloor. You can't have both.

Our 1,000 SF house was on piers and had no moisture barrier on the ground. Having to pay $3,600 to have moisture barrier professionally installed.

I am going to DIY repair the buckled tongue and groove oak floor in the living room, put down 3/4" tongue and groove plywood throughout house for a level floor and then glue down the Modin vinyl plank.

Moisture barrier plus professionally repaired oak floor and plywood subfloor would have cost $10,000.
Professionally installed Karndean would have cost another $10,000.

Doing everything except moisture barrier myself I can save $10,000.

I am always shocked that vinyl flooring hasn't taken off more then it has. I couldn't imagine installing laminate of the vinyl. I do think it hurts resale as people have a hard time understanding it's wear and reparability qualities.

Cancork why does the waviness effect such a thin product? I have never laid and I am curious as I thought it would do the opposite and conform especially with heat?

Wannabath your comment confuses me.... Are u in favor of vinyl or do u think it will hurt resale value?

I picked up 9 color line today had some cool colors especially if you like the acacia look.

What is the color name and company who makes the first picture you posted? Love that vinyl plank and the variations in grain and color.

That's a Chinese product we import comes with 25 yr warranty. it matches acacia natural that's really popular today

So, the vapor barrier I would need to install would be on the underside of the house taped/adhered to the wood substrate?

I don't know if the same rules about vapor barriers apply where I live. In some cases they recommend against using vapor barriers in the exterior walls because it is a high humidity climate. Strangely enough, with the exception of the edges when it rains and where the condensation from the air conditioner drips out, it seems that the underside of the house stays dryer than the inside of the house.

I realize this is a very old thread. I got sidetracked after a bad car wreck (other driver ran a red light and t-boned me). I'm still dealing with the subsequent health issues from that.

So, I found a contender. MSI Prescott Braly (aka MSI Herritage Mohogany). It is click lock, waterproof, 20mil wear layer, limited lifetime warranty residential, and has a built-in underlayment.

Just to be safe I would put a moisture barrier under it.

I got the MSI flooring. It's been sitting in my workshop in a sealed/insulated room waiting for us to get around to finishing demo. Guy who we paid to help us took the $ and didn't come back for a couple years. Then showed up out of the blue offering to do yardwork to pay off what he owes. Turns out he was hoping to get more $ so after a few hours of work he bunked again. Hard to find reliable help.