(Previous owner's things.)

From the dining room, looking into the house.

And looking back into the kitchen.

More info:

I hope to get a 5-hob induction unit rather than run propane into the house. I would use all 5 hobs frequently, But, of course, I can make do w a 4 hob, 30" unit if it makes the kitchen flow better.

We are not heavy mw users, but we will include one.

We would like a 30" oven and a second 24" oven (combi-steam?). We would not put the oven under the cooktop. Instead we would like waist high placement. The smaller oven could go under counter, but waist high is ideal.

The old 36" twin subzero columns are overkill for us. We are open to doing a nonstandard sized refrigerator-freezer set up: columns, built in depth, etc. In our previous house, we had a 30" liebherr and loved it, though I think a slightly bigger capacity would be ideal now.

Here is a plan suggested to us.

I like your house a lot. What a wonderful MCM home.

I did a riff off of your suggested floorplan. I also have some questions.

1, 2. What is the width of these counters? I don't recall, off-hand, minimum NKBA suggestion for counters next to cooktops for safety and a decent landing space but I would suggest an absolute minimum of 18" but, around here, most of us prefer it to be closer to 24".

3. Island dimensions?

4, 5, 6. These aisle widths? It's hard to read the writing.

7. What is this cabinet and what will it be used for? What is the width of that wall?

What are the dimensions of the area inside the pink square?

Fridge should be where it's accessible to people for drinks and snacks without having to come into the work zones.

I like the idea of the oven back in that nook just because even if we bake a lot, we don't have to tend an oven like we do a cooktop. This gets it out of the way and opens up your counters for other things. It could even be around the corner to the right so that whole back wall is counter.

If you stick to one sink, it should be a wide one that allows for someone to clean-up on one side while someone is using the other side for prepping. However, if you're open to a second sink, you could put a prep sink on the island. It would make that island far more usable.

Anyway, this is just a rough idea for discussion.

Sorry these plans aren't well noted. I had a lot of issues with this plan.

A 36" fridge would just barely squeeze in-between the door and window, the wall space is 36". The frig there would really crowd that entrance.

All of the aisles are way too tight, 39". We need 48+. We have just shy of 48" now between our counter and the peninsula and it's just barely enough for back to back work and worker + passer-by.

The small island would direct traffic past the cooktop, through a too narrow aisle. The cootop landing zones aren't sufficient.

My graph paper sketch isn't great, but maybe it's easier to refer to that for space and measurements?

It is 104" from the wall backing the basement stairs to the opposing wall, common with the bedroom).

Right now we have 11" less inches across this eating area bc there is a built in bookcase on that kitchen-bedroom wall.

Funky, thanks for your ideas and questions, btw. I just feel like at just shy of 16' from stairs to dining room, there isn't enough space for us to have a boxed out laundry room and that island. If 48" barely works in our aisle now, I don't think it's a good idea to add smaller squeezed aisles.

What at do you think about the table in tha spot?

Is your graph paper LO 1 sq = 1' ? can you darken the printing and measurements and repost?

Thanks, desertsteph. I will redraw w darker lines. 1sq = 1'.

Is this better? Thanks for your patience.

The main kitchen space is 16'5" from front to back and 15'6" wide from basement stairs to the dinning room.

There re are two additional small extensions of space. The area above the basement stairs is finished; we have a 7'6" x41" alcove at the front of the kitchen. The back end of the kitchen, 104" wide, extends another 4' to the back wall which has 7' wide low and tall windows.

The front wall is 19'6" long. At its longest the kitchen is 20' 5".

The front door is 2" from the wall and it is 37" wide.

Front wi does, 74" 40" from the floor, starts 38" from the edge of that door. So the wall between the door and window is just shy of 38".

The common walls w the dinning room are each 44" wide.

OH! For some reason I was reading the print and thought you had 54" aisles. For people who have broad and quick movement, that would have been great. Oh, I totally agree that you need wider aisles. After more coffee, I'll see if I can come up with something. Thanks for the further info.

Thanks! The plan really squeezes in the island and the cooktop is kind of out there on its own. I think islands can be really useful. But, in my space I don't think it works, unless I give up our other "wants." (1) We would like to create separation for the washer/dryer; right now there isn't even a door across the space. (2) We want an in-kitchen family eating spot (even if it's cozy). We would chose a table over an island.

edited to fix typos.

Here's an idea. (I assumed walls of the current pantry can be removed.)

Peninsula can be 4,5' -5' long (or 5,5' if you have a counter depth fridge) and 27" (30" with 1,5 counter o/h) deep. MW is on a shelf next to the fridge. I couldn't find a good place for the 24" oven, so I have a 30" DO cab only.

I moved the office/master closet door and use the wall where you now have the door for a pantry cab b/w the studs (or maybe bump into the office a little as well).

I also have a 24x24 pantry cab b/w the peninsula and the dining table (48x36 rectangle table in the drawing). If you'll be fine with a narrower+shallower pantry cab there, I think you'll be able to use your 48" table.

Sena, thank you so much! This is awesome. Yes, the current small pantry walls can go. They were added in the 70s. We are going to look into moving the mbr closet/office door to the wall as you have shown. That corner is a major load point for our flat heavy roof; the load is on the outside walls and along the mid-wall that runs the length (almost 100') of the house. Adding the proper support to steal space from that corner is more complicated ($$$$) than if we had a more typically constructed house.

Anyway, I have been thinking of a similar design to what you presented. Can I ask a question? (I am just so excited.)

We would get a real counter-depth frig with any design. A 36" frig would just squeeze between the front door and that window. Funkycamper drew it in that spot above. (Thanks, Funky!) Admittedly, it would crowd both the door and the window. But, in your opinion, would you move there? Functionally, it would work well for us there. I'm just asking about the design with the frig between the door and window. Also, if we did move that frig I could do shallow pantries and extend the peninsula.

I guess fridge b/w window and door can work as well. I'm no expert and not sure about the terminology but maybe you need a built in or fully integrated fridge there. I'd consider making the stair wall an accent wall to distract attention from the fridge next to the entry.

Since peninsula can be longer in this arrangement you may add a prep sink.

nothing to contribute as to layout here, just came to say, that is a very cool mcm kitchen!!!

Thanks again, Sena. I was thinking in terms of a prep sink. You must have read my mind. And the mock up in gorgeous!

Sofibebe, thanks.

I like Sena's plan. I'm just wondering if you really need that peninsula breaking up the room. How about something like this? It also showcases your Saarinen tulip (I really want you to use and enjoy that!).

Or this:

I would not put the fridge between window and door (to left of sink). I think it will be too bulky, block light, hem in the door, and encroach into the walkway to the rest of the house. I think you also need the longer counter space on the left side of the sink.

Funkycamper, thanks for coming back to help me. I agree about the frig by the door. It will crowd the entrance a bit too much.

Sena's plan is great bc that peninsula will be a prime spot to prep, particularly if the frig is across from the table. But your plan is wonderful because it's really open. At this point, my DH and I need to decide whether we need/want more prep and storage or a more open flow. On the one hand, as a growing family, we need more storage and space to prep food. On the other hand, everyone is getting big! and there is a lot of traffic moving through the space so more open space is great. I don't think either choice wIll be wrong,

The only last tweak I need to deal with is the cooktop placement. We need at least two decent prep spaces. To have 42" on each side of a 36" sink, leaves only 6" between the 36" cooktop and the return counter in the corner. (I keep thinking, "no body puts baby in the corner.") I have to decide if I should downside to a 30" cooktop (or 30" induction range). Or if we should turn the corner and put the cooktop there. Of course there goes the walloven placement. We can very easily vent up through our roof, so having the vent hood on an exterior wall is not important. Also, the corner is visually important because this will be the sight line from across our entire house! Anyway, thanks again for chiming in.

You could replace your large window with two smaller windows flanking the stove and put your sink on the peninsula. Add a small pantry/ closet on the side of the fridge.

Glad to come back and try to help. I have an affection for MCM homes and would love to see you make yours work better for you while maintaining true to your home's architecture and personality. So you MUST showcase that Saarinen! If you don't, give it to me. :)

How about this?

Change to a range.

Put a microwave in the upper cabinet next to fridge and a second oven, if you really need one, below. Alternatively, I've read some folks here at GW have nixed the microwave and just use a speed oven. I'm not clear how that works as I've never had a speed oven nor do I really understand how they function but that's something you might want to research. I guess it all depends on how you use your microwave, how often, etc.

Casters - what I'm thinking is that you could have the lower cabinets there put on good industrial casters so you could pull that counter out and move it to use as a peninsula on the occasions you need more prep space or for buffet service.

Alternatively, is there a pantry or some other area where you could store a small kitchen worktable/cart that can be easily rolled out when needed?

Sink: I would get a large single sink. Even one of those awesome Stages 45 sinks which would work well in your space. Quite often on the wider sinks, people will have two faucets. One on the prep side and another on the clean-up side. With a wide sink like that, there is enough space for people to use the same sink at the same time for the different tasks without crowding each other or fighting for use of the faucet. When someone isn't doing clean-up, you could have two people prepping at the same time. It looks like each side of the sink would now have ample counter to do so.

Also, moving the range into that niche provides you a nice separation from sink to range so one person can prep to right of sink while someone else cooks without them being so close that there are congestion issues.

Here's a an alternative idea to make use of the under stairs area unless it's being used for something else. If the stairs rise high enough, would it be possible to inset the cabinets into the space under the stairs? So the uppers don't show here as they are inset under the stairs. This allows the lower cabinet to be more accessible by the cook if they need to place something to the right of the cooktop, giving them more counter space to do so. It also makes it easier to slide into the bench seating next to the amazing Saarinen tulip. I think it will also showcase the tulip better as it won't be so crowded by cabinetry.

I actually thing I would nix the upper between window and door because it will impact the light flow and airiness in that area and crowd the door much like the fridge would. Put your daily dishes, silverware, and glasses in the drawers next to the DW. It's easy and convenient storage. I love storing my like items in drawers instead of uppers. And it's at the end of the run where someone can get a plate or set the table without getting in the way of anyone doing clean-up, prep or cooking. And it's close enough to the fridge where it's handy for grabbing a glass to get a drink.

I should add that open shelving works better in a kitchen when you have good ventilation. If you get a good hood with enough CFM's and that is 6" wider than your cooktop, and use it appropriately, you will not get the greasy grime on your windows or shelves (or the items on them).

One trick I read that makes perfect sense to me is to make sure you get a hood that operates quietly on the lower settings so that you'll be more inclined to use it. Use it whenever you cook. Even if just boiling water. Turn it on a few minutes before you start cooking to start the air currents flowing the way they need to in order to suck up the steam/smoke/grease. And then leave it running for a good 10 minutes or so when you're finished cooking to capture anything still lingering. If your fan is quiet, this will not be an irritant.

By all reports, people find their kitchen stays MUCH cleaner by doing this and it makes open shelving work better without needing to clean things regularly.

Funkycamper, thank you again. I do love my table and would dearly like to use it. A rectangle would be more practical. Yet, love isn't always practical! These mock-ups give me encouragement that we can make it work.

The stairs are to the basement. We are in a one story, flat-roof ranch. So unfortunately there is no space to steal there. We don't have a pantry elsewhere. We hope to box-in the laundry in the kitchen and add shelves there. We we have a skylight at the entrance of the kitchen. We can't build too big of a laundry-entry closet or we will encroach in the skylight. This would be the wall backing the frig and wall oven or pantry. Always trade-offs. But I feel really lucky that these are our trade offs.

We will incorporate shallow storage as much as possible in the kitchen too. Love the photo that Sena shared above. I think drawers, and shallow storage are most usable for us. We are a family of "mom (honey) I can't find the butter!" And then I have to point to the butter on the shelf right in front of them, almost falling out of the frig with its obviousness!

The window in the front is big, 4" from the counter almost to the ceiling and 6' wide. It would be great if we can keep that wall open and free from upper cabinets. My DH hates having the cabinets in his face. Don't want to give him any reasons to shirk his kitchen duties. When I show home your post, he will say, "if Funky on that website says we can do no uppers then let's find a way to make it work!"

I have that last photo saved. They did a nice job on the asthetics of that space. I haven't looked beyond the tile and window eye candy!

Another reason I really like having the cooktop or range tucked in that alcove is we can put a big vent up but not crowd the window. Yes, for ventilation! Maybe that counter is deeper?

At this point DH and I have to decide about open vs peninsula, moveable or otherwise. I will ill defintely post again as we get closer to the action.

Glad I was of some help. Especially if it helps you find a way to use that table. it's a treasure and fits your home so well that, to me, it would be a real crime to not use it. And it should be showed off. Not partially hidden by a peninsula, imho.

Your windows are so fab! I'm glad you think your DH will agree with me on the uppers.

Regarding deeper counters. In some kitchens, deeper than normal counters work great. Quite often an L-shape kitchen like your major kitchen area lends itself well for this. 28-30" deep counters really gives you a lot more space to spread out and prep. I'm unclear how wide that alcove is where you want to put the range/hood. If you shared that info, I missed it. Basically, you need about 18" on each side of the range for a decent size landing space. You want width to place hot pans. For example, if something is boiling over, you want to be able to quickly move it off the cooktop to the nearest counter space without having to turn and accidentally spill which could cause burns. And you really don't want to have to turn to find a place to put it down causing you to spill on someone else.

So I would recommend that you have 48" from the edge of the sink wall counter to the wall on the other side of that niche if you are using a 30" wide range. This gives you 18" to the right of the range and the ues of the corner space to left of the range. If you are going with a 36" range, you will need 54" from counter to wall. Those are minimums. In this situation you could always use more space but not less than recommended minimums.

Oh, if it hasn't been mentioned previously, you want a hood 6" wider than cooktop to capture more steam/smoke/grease/odors.

If you do deeper than normal counters and are getting custom cabinets made, explore having the drawers made deeper and make sure you get full-extension drawer hardware (Blum is most recommended). This will give you a LOT more storage in those drawers.

Again, if you can carve space for a few shelves in the garage for some pantry, that is great. Shelves in laundry will add a ot of storage as well. Go to ceiling and use a stool.

What is this for (with the ?). Is it a closet? Can it be a pantry?

After you've done some pondering and measuring, come on back and let us know how you're leaning to see if we can help you tweak things further.

Best wishes. I can't wait to see how your planning and remodel progress as I LOVE your house.

Oh, last tip for now. If you think you might want the peninsula, put a piece of furniture there roughly the same size as the peninsula would be. A chest or drawers or buffet might work for this. Or boxes. And live with it for awhile to see if it works for you. I think it will feel too much like a barrier so the positives of having that counter space will be outweighed by the feeling of congestion in the work area. Also it will hide The Tulip. But the best way to know is to test it out.

Some people will suggest just putting painter's tape on the floor but this does not give you the true picture as the space is still open without the bulk of the item giving you a true feel for how it will work in your space. So, no tape test, OK?