Hi Ubro,

thanks for your help!!!

So if you don't use landscape fabric what is your solution for weeding?I already spend a lot of time weeding the vegetable field....

And about direct sow in row you always have to thin out seedlings after?

I know weeding can be a pain, and I have seen others use landscape fabric successfully. They take landscape fabric, melt holes in it with a small torch ( so the edges don't fray), at intervals then lay it down and plant their flowers in the holes. In the fall they pull the whole thing up and store it. My problem was pulling it up at the end of the season, a back breaking chore because the plants are now very large and the roots don't come back out of the holes I planted them in. But it all depends on the type of work you want to do, for me I just use a gas tiller and I find if I hoe in the spring when the weeds are small I don't seem to need to hoe later in the summer. Are your seasons long? if so the landscape fabric might be good for you.

When I direct sow I take my time and space the seeds accordingly, I plant 3 sunflowers to a hill and space them about 30cm. I soak my sunflower seeds in water for 4 days (changing the water each day) until they show a root so I know that they have germinated and then only plant those.

I do have to thin some of my flowers but I now start many of these plants first in the house for two reasons 1) It lets me make sure that I have live plants incase germination is low. 2) I can start my plants at 2 week intervals so I have blossoms all thru the season not just at one time

I make my flower beds 100cm. wide and have 3 , 4 or even 5 rows in them this lets me put more flower plants in a smaller area to weed.

What zone are you in Ananas? Any idea what area of the U.S. your climate might be similar to?

My hardiness zone here in Italy is 8b that is beetween -9,4 °C -6,7 °C, my first frost is on 11-20 of November and my last frost is on 21-31 of March.

I'm grow on a small scale. I haven't used landscape fabric but it appears that many flower farmers do. I will be trying it out next year for sure! I don't see why you can't do it on any plants. Maybe trial it on heat loving flowers like zinnias/sunflowers/cosmos to get an idea of how effective it is first?

I would talk to the florist and ask what they have demand for. If you grow a bunch of zinnias but the florists designs are more sophisticated you won't have a market. I love zinnias but I try to limit myself to only 15% of my product because it's not very lucrative. Lower price per stem. I'm very glad to see icelandic poppies and sweet peas on your list, they should easily sell for $1 per stem, not sure what US dollars to Italian currency is. Florists love them for weddings! Also consider growing more foliages, Bells of Ireland is great but there are many other great ones - Basil was a favorite of the florists I sold to this year, they loved the greenery and aroma! Great vase life as well in the "Lime Basil" variety.

My soil is a heavier clay so I find it very difficult to germinate direct sown seeds, I almost always start in either 1 gallon jugs using the winter sowing method or plug type starters. Deep root development is VERY important for the sweet peas. You NEED to have at the very LEAST 6" of soil depth for their young roots to develop.

Nigella is one of the few where I've experience direct sown is more successful. You'll need to prepare a seed starting bed with very loose soil for the delicate plants to push through. I would assume ammi and bachelors button are similar. I haven't grown them yet.

Anther thing to consider is fall sowing hardy annuals. Higgedly Gardens in the UK is in a similar zone and swears by it for early, super strong flowers. You might be able to start your sweet peas now, Flower Farmers in the Pacific Northwest (climate similar to yours) swear by it, my climate zone 5b/6a is to cold so they would die =(

Great climate to be growing in! also curious, is your summer very very hot? or more mild? I would suggest you read a little bit more over the winter. Time is most certainly in your favor. Your questions are great but there is a LOT more to it. Georgie Newbury from Common Farm Flowers has a book titled "The Flower Farmers Year" that has helped me a ton and she's releasing a new one soon, mid-november. She is also growing in a zone similar to yours. Floret Flower Farm is another one you should check out. She has some great Flower Focus posts on her website/blog for free. I'll paste the links directly below. She also has a book that I love for reference, "Fresh From the Field Wedding Flowers" by Erin Benzakein is her name.

LINKS:

http://www.floretflowers.com/2014/01/icelandic-poppy-primer/

http://www.floretflowers.com/2014/01/growing-great-sweet-peas-part-1/

http://www.floretflowers.com/2014/01/growing-great-sweet-peas-part-2/

http://www.floretflowers.com/2014/03/flower-focus-favorite-foliages-and-fillers/

http://www.floretflowers.com/2014/02/flower-focus-growing-great-dahlias-part-1/

http://www.floretflowers.com/2014/02/flower-focus-growing-great-dahlias-part-2/

http://www.floretflowers.com/2014/03/flower-focus-growing-great-zinnias/

http://www.floretflowers.com/2014/01/flower-focus-chinese-forget-me-nots/

Here are a few of my dahlias. Consider growing them! They should be hardy in your zone and they're really spectacular, florists should pay $$$. The tubers can be pricey but you can start with just a couple and divide them every year to get more! Simple to propagate.

So excited for your new adventure! I would love to see photos of your fields every season next year! keep asking questions!

Sure I will study hard this winter, I'm really excited too, and this forum is really helpful for me, here in Italy I have no other support....

I was looking for a good book to study, I find also The Flower Farmer by Lynn Byczynski, and Specialty Cut Flower by Allan Armitage, and also Common Farm Flowers as you say....but I have to choose one....

Our summer are mild they reach max 30° C.

But every year is different now for example it's 20°C, so really hot for November. So also if I'd prefer to stard in October, I will try a fall sowing in this day, I have to finish soil prep but is almost done. I try with sweet pea and also nigella, centaurea and scabious.

But I have some question: Why I have to thin out my seedlings, if I have to thin to about 25 cm, I can't space my seed at this distance, like two or tree seed for each plant.

And what are your showing methods? What you mean with "1 gallon jugs using the winter sowing method or plug type starters".

Thanks a lot for all suggestion, and sorry for my bad english!!!!

If you have to chose only one book make it Allan Armitage. As your own knowledge grows you will not outgrow this book. It actually tells you what each flower needs from seed to final harvest. Lynn's book is good but not enough detailed growing instructions. I have been growing cut flowers for years, and I still use Allan's book and never need to consult Lynn"s.

We're glad to help!

Allan Armitage's book looks GREAT for very specific scientific information on growing flowers. Looks like a flower growers bible.

Common Farm Flowers walks you through more about which flowers to choose to grow and why with a more brief explanation about how she grows them successfully. There are no temperatures for germination or days to germination.

Very different books, both with their merit. It sounds like you know how to grow things so Allan Armitage's book shouldn't be overwhelming to you.

You really do have the PERFECT climate. Floret Flower Farm is located in an EXTREMELY similar climate in Washington State USA. The owner, Erin Benzakein, is coming out with a new book soon but I'm not sure of the exact date. Maybe later this winter?

As for your question: "Why I have to thin out my seedlings, if I have to thin to about 25 cm, I can't space my seed at this distance, like two or tree seed for each plant." I understand what you're saying, some seeds are expensive!!! Many times I look at the standard germination rates of flowers and decide if I want to put one seed per hole or two seeds per hole. If something has a 100-75% germination rate I will put one per hole. 75% or less I put 2 per hole.

I primarily start my seeds, the two methods I prefer are

1. http://www.agardenforthehouse.com/2012/11/winter-sowing-101-6/

2. in recycled nursery pots that allow for some root development

Your english is great, better than my italian =P Give yourself some credit!