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charlieboring

Yard Long Beans

11 years ago

Each year I plant a row of yard-long beans against by fence and use string to allow them to climb up the fence. We always get lots of beans throughout the growing season. For the next growing season I am going to install a rain gutter garden across the top of the fence and allow the bean plants to trail down over the sides instead of climbing. When I beging the project, I will post pictures. Has anyone tried this? Any suggestions?

Comments (5)

  • 11 years ago

    I wonder if the gutters will have adequate soil for good growth.

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I'm not too sure it'll work. They grow upwards naturally. When my beans hit the top of their supports some draped back down until they found either the twine or themselves again then grew back up. I think that trying to keep them trailing downwards would be a never ending battle.

    Edit: After rereading your post I think I get what you mean. You have a wooden fence with nothing they'll be able to grab onto to climb back up, correct? If so then I suppose it might work.

    Rodney

  • 11 years ago

    Having given the projeact additional thought, here are my intentions.

    I usually plant a row of yard-long climbing beans against my fence and allow them to climb string up the fence. This procedure works well; but I lose the back row that could be used for other crops. This coming year I want to build a planter box to mount on the top of the fence and allow the beans to trail down instead of climb.

    Material: The box will be made from treated wood (though many are against use of treated wood since it has poinson in it to protect from insect damage). The poison is arsenic which occurs in minute levels in the soil. I do not believe that edible plants will absorb the arsenic.

    Size: I will use 2"X10"X10' boards so the size of the box will be 10 inches deep, 10 inches across and 10 feet long (or the appropriate length between fence posts).

    Mounting: I am going to attach the box to each fence post at each end of the box with wood screws and to the 2X4 cross-piece on the fence with the same screws.

    Soil and Drainage: I will drill 1/2 inch holes in the bottom of the box every 6 inches to allow good drainage. In the bottom of the box I will place a layer of small rocks to support drainage without loss of soil. I will make my on soil from 1 part garden soil (purchase on sale from Home Depot, ussually about $2.50 a cubic foot), 1 part humus (purchase on sale from Home Depot, ussually about $2.37 a cubic foot), 1 part top soil (purchase on sale from Home Depot, ussually about $1.37 a cubic foot), and 1 part leaf-mold compost (free from the transfer center).

    Planting: I will plant two rows of beans staggered, since I want both rows to trail over the same side of the box. The rows will be 3-iches apart and each bean4 inches apart.

    Underneath the box I will plant a row of bush beans.

  • 11 years ago

    My guess is they will go down on their own weight.

  • 10 years ago

    I have two rows bed - just 2.5 ' wide. I have trellis along one side of the bed with metal fencing mesh on them. I always plant climbing beans right along that trellis and another row of bush beans in front of the first one. It works well for me.