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Create Small Fruit Trees with This Pruning Method

10 years ago
last modified: 10 years ago

I found this link in the Topiary section but it deserves a place here, in this forum.

Create Small Fruit Trees with This Pruning Method

Comments (11)

  • 10 years ago

    nice :)

    tete_a_tete thanked Francesco Delvillani
  • 10 years ago

    Even though I have a small yard, I couldn't bear to plant my trees on dwarf rootstock. Dwarf rootstock is really not good for the trees, and will shorten their lifespan. There will always be that level of incompatibility (which is why the trees are dwarfed in the first place). I see trees as a living entity, and hate to set them up for the rest of their lives to struggle. This pruning routine could be a great alternative to relying on dwarf rootstock.

    tete_a_tete thanked parker25mv
  • 10 years ago

    Well this technique is good, but nothing new. It's been around for around a decade. I first tried it 4 years ago. Works well.

    tete_a_tete thanked drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
  • 10 years ago

    No, it's nothing new, but it explains everything so well and shows how anyone, even a mug like me, can do it.

    'Dwarf rootstock is really not good for the trees, and will shorten their lifespan. There will always be that level of incompatibility... '

    Exactly, parker.

  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    Yes, good article. But I disagree with that statement. Cherry dwarfing rootstock does not reduce the life of the tree. Some others might, not all though. it is very desirable to use cherry dwarfing rootstock like the Gisela series of rootstocks. Awesome rootstocks that put trees into production years ahead of non-dwarfing rootstock. I would not buy a cherry tree not on Gisela or the Zaiger cherry dwarfing rootstock.

    Some full size rootstocks are good too for sure. I just think it's a lot better to stick with the dwarfing rootstocks for cherries. Pruning is easier, production quicker, and fruit load is tremendous. Often these out produce regular rootstock. Even commercial operations are going to the dwarfing rootstocks. Much more productive per acre than full size trees. Less labor, and safer conditions for the workers too.

    The article may be referring to apple rootstocks. I don't grow apples and know little about the rootstocks.

    tete_a_tete thanked drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a
  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    I don't like dwarfing either, can't see a advantage of that stubby short apple tree shown in link, [guess this tree was pushed extremely low to the ground at 5 years old] ...lots of wasted dead space above! The short trees grown on wire,..well, good for high volume commercial, run on high maintenance and labor,..you're constantly throwing some out and replace. I don't want to be bothered with it as a hobby grower.

    tete_a_tete thanked Konrad..just outside of Edmonton Alberta
  • 10 years ago

    Dwarfs are usually from weak roots not incompatibilities. Which is why many dwarfs need perminate staking.

    tete_a_tete thanked pip313
  • 10 years ago

    I was once carried off with the idea of pruning the tree this way. But in our reality it did not work at all. The main reason is RABITTS. They were happily munching on the branches which were positioned so conveniently low to the ground. This battle was impossible to win. I do like the dwarf trees though. The first branches should be formed way higher off the ground, then the single trunk can be easily protected from creatures. Also during the cold winter the temperatures on the snow surface are the coldest, so the trunk and the branches which happened to positioned at that level and were not protected can be winter damaged more easily.

    tete_a_tete thanked antmary_Omaha_NE_5b
  • 10 years ago
    last modified: 10 years ago

    The only reason stone fruit trees are more "productive" on rootstock is that all that growth goes to the fruit instead of growing the tree. The same is true if you add too much nitrogen fertilizer to the soil, the tree will be less likely to produce fruit. Think about it: the leaves are producing energy but the soil is not drawing in as much nutrients. So if the tree can't grow, where is all that energy going to go to? Into producing fruit. Making fruit is a very energy-intensive process for the tree (all those sugars), but consumes relatively minor nutrients (compared to producing leaves/branches). Ultra-dwarf fruit trees can begin producing in as few as 2-4 years after they are planted.

    A cherry tree grown on its own roots can live well over a 100 years. They also grow very thick trunks, just like a real tree does. But you never see own-root cherry trees for sale, because they would take 12-15 years before they even started producing fruit. People don't want to wait that long. And commercial growers do not want to have to use a cherry picker crane to harvest the fruit.

    tete_a_tete thanked parker25mv
  • 10 years ago

    I guess it depends where you live on how long a tree will live. No trees 100 years old here at all, not even close. Most die within 5 years unless cared for.

    Disease pressure is high here. I'm talking sweet cherries. Tart cherries are completely different. Many tart cherry trees are very old here. Some I would guess are 100 years old.

    tete_a_tete thanked drew51 SE MI Z5b/6a