Run them the same way you would run actual hardwood, so run them from the front door through to the back of the house (not crosswise).

Run the "length of tile" in the same direction as the "length of the house". This looks the most natural.

Going diagonal is also a 'fun' way of doing things. It requires 20%-25% more product and costs more for labour (add another 10% for labour). I'm not a fan of it but many people use diagonal installs to add "energy" to a space.

Lengthwise to the longest axis of the home. And you can change directions at the doorways just like you would with real wood. The biggest thing to watch out for is that the stagger can be no more than 1/3 offset. You MUST use medium bed mortar (not thinset) and the grout line should be around 3/16. The floor prep for this is critical, and often takes longer to do correctly than laying the tile. That subfloor MUST be flat.

I love the diagonal look and I also love a herringbone pattern. It really adds interest.

@sophie nailed it. FLAT!! No two ways about it. 1/3 off set or standard pattern. The way the most experienced setters get it flat with zero lip page is to set the tile with a lash type system. A cheaper 'tile guy' is not going to have this capability. A well rounded 'tile setter' will be able to pull this off no problem. I'd be more concerned with whom you hire.

My tiler has done the rest of the house using relatively large format tiles (2'x2' and 18"x36") and has done an excellent job thus far. To date he has laid everything by hand but the tiles have been very level ands straight.

Herringbone in the foyer area then straight on the longest existing axis.