Is the pictured gap the dishwasher, or...? Are you limiting yourself to just this cabinet maker? If so, why?

You will need filler strips or more cabinets in narrower sizes to make up the distance and eliminate the open shelving to make this work better . I don’t see the full measurement of the wall but maybe removing the ones above the hood fan will help to arrange the cabinets better in fact I would remove those anyway.What is going under the cabinets on the left?

Have you looked at StarMark Cabinetry? They build custom and deliver pre-assembled - may be a good in-between solution.

The gap is the corner base cabinet that didn't appear when I printed. The budget is somewhat limiting us. I'm open to customizing the upper 12" high cabinets if that's the only thing we see as working. Also, we wanted the upper 12" to be open like the photo below.

I've heard good things about Conestoga on this forum. For the budget conscious they have RTA units also.

You can get them thru various retailers or order online

http://www.conestogawood.com/products/rta-cabinets.html

http://cabinetauthority.com/index.php?campaign=1&gclid=Cj0KEQiAjMC2BRC34oGKqY27jtkBEiQAwSXzfllnsJxabxXybfRqNe-jNKayi3nR3wA3XhSZgnQp0o8aAhHS8P8HAQ

It sounds like you're settled with the manufacturer but are just looking to improve this elevation. If your cabinets are painted it may be pretty straight-forward for a custom shop to work-in a few pieces to fit at the top. I would put a 36" unit centered on the hood, that is the focal point and the 5" filler that is there I think will really stick out. In perspective (as opposed to straight-on elevation as shown in your drawing) the lack of "lining up exactly" may be less offensive to you. You may be able to order a drawer front in a different width that matches the height and use it as a door... again, the grain direction will be an issue if you are using stained cabinets but check with the designer... he/she should be able to let you know if a deep drawer front is available in the same height as your 12" cabinet doors, allowing you some more flexibility...you'll still have to do some carpentry however.

Avoid going so very narrow on your uppers - I'm talking specifically the double mullion doors that measure 24" on the left side. Symmetry will be your friend here so make sure that both those uppers measure 30" wide. The other problem is the very narrow base units 9" wide. They would look better wider - try 12 or thereabouts. And the 12" bank of uppers really are not working here, but that's just me. Best of luck!

Thank you everyone for all of your ideas and suggestions.

The look you want is a very hard installation. And very expensive. The picture you have shown is probably one of the most expensive kitchens I have seen here. I would get better cabinets, 42", with nice trim above and light it. Then you could have your stove vent go all the way to the ceiling. It would be very hard to "stack" cabinets and then have the seam, between them, look good. If you look at your picture there is a "solid" piece between the cabinets. You will not have room for that. Also, the cabinets that you are ordering probably do not have a "furniture" or finished bottom. So you would have to finish it with something and they are not flat bottoms...

Agreed Waco. The sample kitchen looks good with those glass uppers because they are all symmetrical and perfectly spaced. Nice wide stiles, no fussy routed profiles. But the full inset doors are tricky to pull off. We nixed inset doors because without perfect alignment and no shifting over time they can go sideways on you* Partial overlay doors are easier to get right, and face framed looks great with a more traditional vibe.

*But don't take my word for it, read this thread for more information on overlay VS. inset:

[https://www.houzz.com/discussions/full-overlay-or-inset-kitchen-cabinets-dsvw-vd~746975[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/full-overlay-or-inset-kitchen-cabinets-dsvw-vd~746975)

Nope. Upper 12" should be an extension of the lower cabinets. Try 15" high with 39".

I've done this sort of thing with less expensive cabinets, but I am a seasoned kitchen designer, and solve these dilemmas all the time. I agree that running that second row is maybe not ideal. Besides if ceiling is 108", then you are going to set a better proportional look with 36" cabinet + 15" top + 3" crown..

here is a photo where I did this sort of thing and another kitchen from an inexpensive manufacturer. Below was 30" + 12" and 42" on sides.

I know everyone is DIY here, but some things are better done by a designer. Trust designers! Hire designers!

Aggie, no not everyone is DIY here. The OP has posted their kitchen and it looks generated by whatever "designer" their cabinetmaker had on hand. Now some kid at the local big box retailer running CAD is not a designer of your caliber clearly, but the fact remains that there are some pretty half baked designs generated by kitchen pros. One has to exercise some due diligence. It like the old saying: "what do you call a medical student who graduates at the bottom of their class?"..."Doctor".

You need a different cabinet designer and different cabinet line. That is just plain bad.

LOLz

A person trapped at a big box retailer store is at best a designer apprentice, maybe? I've worked "complimentary" design jobs at showroom, and that's where you'll get the best experience, that's where they expect you to run the showroom, but also be at the jobsite at the same time ;) on Christmas Eve.

True, not everyone who calls themselves a designer is a designer or has the "flare", or "flair" for it. What is it I am confused! I am just looking at the threads today and it's one rookie mistake after another. I figured at least with a designer it will be half way better? 50% better is much better than 0, and thousands of dollars down the drain, I can't belie the people are doing this. They are clearly not millionaires, but even bad work is not cheap. Why not save the money and spend it a few years down the road with a professional contractor and a designer.

But yeah, I know what you mean. Thank you for your support. Your write-up blurb is pretty hilarious.

You can't (or shouldn't) fit 42 + 12 uppers with a 9' ceiling. Even if you didn't want crown, you would have to allow for the unevenness of the ceiling and floor without sacrificing the 18" space between the counter and bottom of the wall cabinets. I would allow at least 6" for a two piece crown and ditch the top cabinets. Or do 36 + 12 if you really want them.

Frankly I'm puzzled. On one hand you say you are limited by budget and can't afford custom--in fact it appears your brand has limited sizes. On the other hand, this is a hugely expensive kitchen.

Inset cabinets are typically more than full overlay and standard overlay.
Glass doors with matching interiors adds more cost.
Then the stacked cabinets.
Every single cabinet means more installation cost.
Every single cabinet means extra cost for product. For example, one 30" wide cabinet is typically less expensive than two 15" wide cabinets.

Overall this is bad design. Even worse it is expensive bad design.
Many better cabinet brands have double deck wall cabinets. Instead of for example a 36" tall and an 18" tall stacked, they have a single cabinet box 54" tall that is divided into two compartments but looks like two cabinets. Typically saves money on both the cabinets and the install.

Even my Conestoga RTA cabinets have that stacked cabinet option.

If this is the best your KD can do, then you need a different KD and probably a different brand of cabinets.

This is a classic example of why many people don't use/distrust kitchen designers: poor design that is not budget friendly. Else you could afford both a better KD and better cabinets.

Improvement

No. The stack is disproportionate.

The ideal proportions are 2/3 topped with 1/3. For a 9' ceiling, you have 54" to work with. That would be 6" of molding and either a 30" with a glass 18" on top or a 33" with a glass 15" on top. I personally prefer the 30+18 because that is much easier to find in lower cost cabinet lines. Also, if someone is on a budget, it is fairly easy to do "standard" 30" H cabinets and in a few years time add the 18" and molding on top.

And the glass doors are wrong next to the range. Too many skinny doors too.

get rid of those open boxes on both sides and maybe you have something. If this is a cheap cabinet line those open box cabinets will look atrocious.

when you get them

On the 9' ceiling we usually do 36+15+ crown. Or 39"+12" That gives you total

36 base Cab w/counter top +18" BK SPL+36"+15" Stacked Cab = 105+ crown.

9' ceiling is 108 5/8" - so with 105 you left just the right amount for crown molding.

If you do 42" plus stacked cabinet, you left with nothing... no room for molding at all. Any other configuration other than 36+15 or 39+12 you will have to build up with fillers and run your crown.

Thank you GN Builders!! I'm liking this look and it's 36+15.

Yes, that's the best combination, the upper cabinets have lots of glass especially if you put lights inside. Also when your backsplash is open like this, you have lots of options how to make that area the focal point of your kitchen with a nice inlay.Here is one of the designs I did for someone a while back just to give you an idea...The inlay can be glass, metal, granite, etc. it will bring that whole kitchen out.

Good luck

GAM: I'm liking your latest version much better without those odd narrow open uppers flanking the range hood, but I would eliminate the stacked shelves entirely. It looks clean, open and uncluttered - Much more pleasing to the eye. I would still widen the narrow lower base units that are 9" however. Great advice from GN builders with respect to the stacked cabinets. Hopefully this all works out and the kitchen comes together.

It's a very pretty kitchen....my only comment is that if you actually cook, those open shelves will quickly get icky....

GN Builders...what program did you use to create the kitchen?

Rusty: The 9" base are spice racks. So, those serve their purpose there. As for stacked shelves, those are a must because my husband's pet peeve is seeing open space above cabinets. It grosses him out to think of all the dust that collects up there and having to clean it. =) We are trying to minimize the dust allergens that could collect in the kitchen. So, those open shelves are probably not going to be part of the final design.

Much better... if your husband doesn't like dust eliminate the open shelves flanking the hood, not only will they be dusty, but likely greasy... plan some stunning tile and skip the shelves. It will create a dramatic focal point and with all the tile options available, easy to clean and potentially less money than the shelves.

Thanks Delicious Kitchens! I am already looking for tile for the backsplash and like the French cut pattern on the left.

no please no

Upfront the latest design is MUCH better than the original.
A top view would help. Here are a few pet peeves:

1) The upper left cabinet is not the same size as the other uppers. My read is that it is 36" wide vs 30" for the others. The stove wall is the "show " wall. Not saying the 6" difference is gross bad but it will be very noticeable. I suspect the reason for the 36" upper is to align with a 36" base corner (perhaps a Lazy Susan?). 24" to line up with cabinet run perpendicular to the stove wall and 12" for access. I get it. It's logical. But I think you can do better.

2). A book has been about the open shelves flanking the range hood.

3). Your oven is crowding the right wall. Sometimes there is not a great place for an appliance. But you still need a few inches between the oven and wall. Imagine a DW in the same location and how awkward it would be reaching the far side. Now imagine trying to get hot food out of the oven. You just need a few inches for elbow room.

4). It's a virtual certainty your walls are not plumb or straight. They never are, even in a brand new house. The cabinet housing the oven is going to need to be scribed to the wall to prevent gaps of 1/8" to even 1/4" because of walls that aren't plumb. So you need either an extended stile on your oven cabinet (to be scribed) or a filler to be scribed. Will need scribing for stacked cabinet above oven cabinet.

5). Bottom line is you need to lose 6" on the upper left cabinet and reallocate much of that for stiles for scribing to the right of the oven. Since your uppers do not seem to turn the corner to the left (they seem to end flush against the left wall) you will need extended stiles/filler there for scribing as well. So I would tweak your uppers to allow for the extra stiles, which might mean shifting cabinets and range hood a few inches.

6). To accommodate extra stiles to the right of your oven, your base cabinets need to be tweaked. Instead of the 36" corner base, I would use a blind corner cabinet that opens on the left wall (Rev a Shelf has a great storage device for blind corners). That will free up 12" on base cabinets, some of which can be reallocated to the stile right of the oven. This could be another base pullout adjacent to the blind corner (would need a stile so pullout would miss handles on the door to the blind cabinet.

HBC is making some valid suggestions, but I would avoid a blind corner cabinet at any cost, and use a 33" corner instead or 36" with a lazy susan if you need to pick up additional 3". Most manufacturers make 33" corners and they are great in many situations, specially when you working with limited space.

Good luck

I've designed a few kitchens where the cabinets stopped short of the ceiling and there was a gap to fill. We filled the space with a drywall bulkhead painted out white to match the ceiling and it looked very nice. Cheaper solution than extra cabinets.

Hal and GN, thank you for the suggestions. The cabinet makers only make a 36" corner or 42" blind corner. So, here is the latest with your suggestions.

Blind corner or a regular corner is largely a matter of personal preference and what works best on the two walls in the grand scheme of things.
For example, I would never recommend a blind corner with just shelves. My MIL hates Lazy Susans for fear of stuff falling off.

Reconfiguring to use a blind corner in her U shaped kitchen, we were able to flank her sink with a 3-drawer base on each side.

Rev a Shelf has a nice sliding solution for blind corners. Need to check your opening to see if it will work. Available in two sizes.

To me the drawing to the left has a cleaner look. HUGE difference this iteration than the original post.

Thank you. I will check out Rev a Shelf. I have learned a lot from all of your suggestions.

@GN Builders L.L.C, you've added very useful content here, and I'm finding it very helpful all these years later when faced with similar design considerations for my build, so thanks!!!

@Gin Maranan, where's the pic of the final product so we can see what you decided?? :)