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tyepps37

Help tomato plants are sick?!

10 years ago

A week or two ago my plants were nice and healthy and now they look like this. The bottom leaves were the first to go, and now the top ones are getting these spots and starting to curl up. The tips on all the leaves have turned yellow. Help I don't know what to do?

Comments (7)

  • 10 years ago

    I agree that your plants are quite leggy. They are not getting nearly enough light and haven't been for some time.

    But see the raised puffy places on the leaves? Assuming there are no aphids on the underside of the leaves (which you'd see), that is called leaf edema and is usually caused by over-watering. The leaf cells absorb too much water, puff up, the cells rupture, and you get the dead brown spots. Over-watering also causes yellow and faded color and root rot which then leads to the shriveled leaves.

    Over-watering doesn't just mean you are pouring too much water into the pot at one time. It can also mean you are doing it too often. It can also result from poor/slowly draining soil. So much more info is needed.

    Trying to grow tomato plants in containers, especially small containers like yours, is a real challenge. Trying to do it indoors or in a sheltered area complicates it even more.

    To salvage the plants we'd need all the details on your growing conditions, potting mix, variety names of the plants, watering practices, ambient temps, etc. etc.

    Dave

    tyepps37 thanked digdirt2
  • 10 years ago

    Okay, so my plants are in botanicare ready gro potting soil from the hydroponics shop.

    The pot is a six inch pot, I planed on transferring them once they get a little bigger and it gets warmer, to a bigger pot.

    The tomato seeds just came from heirloom tomatoes from walmart, it started out as an expiriment but now they are so tall I want to see it all the way through if possible.

    They have never been fertilized.

    As for my watering practices I give it about a cup or a cup and a half every week to week and a half. I water them when the first few inches of the soil are dry.

    The tempature is always about 70 to 75 degrees on the window sill where they are at, it does not fluctuate at all.

    Overall they were doing pretty well for about a month and a half, then this happened. I now plan on getting a supplemental light, but as for watering conditions what would you recommend for how much to and how often to water them?

    Any input or advice would be much appreciated as I am a newbie and I am still learning.

    Thank You


  • 10 years ago

    Are the spots raised? How do the roots look?

    Don't put your plants on an irrigation schedule. Let them pretty much dry completely out before watering. Even if they wilt just a tiny bit before watering, that is ok.

    tyepps37 thanked ncrealestateguy
  • 10 years ago

    So you are using a soil, a hydroponics medium but in a container. First quideline in container growing is no soil. Soil-less mixes only. Any soil mix compacts,drains poorly and causes root rot and water ponding and retention. You use soil-less potting mixes only in containers and any number of brands of it are available.

    Using the window in the pic for scale then you plants are well past any life in a 6" pot but it is hard to be accurate of that since the internode length on them is so extra long. So how tall is the plant? It is is more than 6" tall then it is getting rootbound in that size pot.

    Young seedlings can grow in a 6" pot but not a tomato plant. If it is one of the so-called "heirloom" varieties from that pack (I've seen the plants it lists) then it is an indeterminate plant which would normally grow to approx. 6-8' tall and approx. 3 foot wide. Such varieties require at least a 10 gallon pot and 15 gallons is better.

    Fertilizer - container plants require regular feedings of a well-balanced fertilizer - preferably a liquid one every 7-14 days. The nutrients wash out every time you water and have to be replaced.

    Window light, even in a greenhouse, is never enough light this time of year and supplemental lighting is needed from day 1. It is too late now for this plant as the stem is already compromised.

    Watering isn't, as NC said, a schedule thing with plants. It is done as the plants need it. Plants in the ground can go much longer between water than any container plant can. Containers, depending on the mix in them, the air temps, and the size of the container can require water anytime from multiple times per day to once every 3-4 days. So you have to learn how 'read' your soil and your plant, watch its signs for limp leaves, stick your fingers down into the soil etc.

    So if you can either get this plant much more light or put it outside then it isn't worth saving IMO. If you can do that then you need to get a BIG container, fill it with quality potting mix, transplant the plant into it DEEP - burying most all that stem as deep as possible at the same time. New roots will develop all along the buried stem.

    Hope this helps some.

    Dave

    tyepps37 thanked digdirt2
  • 10 years ago

    Thanks for the input Dave, this helps A LOT.

    So what I'm getting from this is that if I want to have any remote chance of saving it, I would need to get supplemental lighting until it warms up and I can put it ouside. I also need to upgrade my pot size to a 15 gallon, and refine my watering times, along with changing the soil to a soil-less mix and adding nutrients to its diet?




  • 10 years ago

    I suspected few things :

    -- blotches caused by fertilizer burn.

    -- yellowing is indicative of (a) too much water (b) too little fertilizer ( c) not enough light.

    Let the top of soil to dry between watering. Depending on the pot size and room temperature, I would water about in 5 to 7 days.

    Sey

    tyepps37 thanked Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
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