Call in a drywall repair specialist.

Sometimes I do just cut out the failing areas of tape and then just fill with mud. The idea behind doing this is so that when there is movement again, you get just some hairline cracks instead of tape falling out.

To the person that said call in a drywall specialist, I did. And they used tape. And now I have to fix it a year later. I clearly asked for thoughts on Alternative solutions. Why waste your time responding if you provide nothing of value?

To the other responder, that's part of my plan.

"I hired a couple of painters too correct it"

Sounds to me like you hired painters and not drywall specialists.

Apologies - I should have been more clear, I used a drywall specialist who also painted the room afterwards. Do you have any thoughts on the question?

Try a better dry wall guy. Maybe a plaster guy instead. In my area plaster guys are different than dry wallers. Also I would have used mesh tape instead of paper tape.

Did they use mesh tape and apply at least two layers of joint compound over it?

I am not an expert AT ALL, but any crack that I have applied mesh tape to in my house has not separated again. (Some walls have buckled a little, but that's a different issue.) Mesh tape is made of some sort of plastic - not paper.

Another option may be to apply some type of moulding over it. I went ahead and installed crown moulding after I scraped the popcorn ceiling because I didn't want to deal with the tape near the walls. If you don't have right angles you might be able to bevel moulding or 1x4s with a table saw, or combine a couple of different pieces.

Yes, they applied two layers. I thought about molding, but would be difficult because of the greater angle. I tried searching alternative solutions but didn't really find anything.

mesh tape would be absolutely the wrong tape to use, and any good drywall person

Maybe...but I have mesh on my wall with the same angle and absolutely no issues. How is it absolutely wrong to use?

Most painters are good at doing drywall repairs. Simply saying hire a drywall guy or a better drywall guy is not really the solution. If there is movement behind the wall where two sheets of drywall meet, how is hiring a better drywall guy going to fix that? A better drywall guy cannot stop the earth from rotating and he cannot improve the design of the home either. Some houses have areas that continue to move and therefore will continue to crack and separate no matter if you use tape or mesh and no matter who you hire to fix it.

Here's a tip. Sometimes the drywall guy leaves the ceiling sheet loose at the edge. Lunch break or text messages, etc. I was in a 1988 house yesterday that had very few screws near the edge. I could push the edge up when rolling near the edge of the ceiling. That may or may not be your case, but it's worth an inspection.

I apologize for misreading " I hired a couple of painters too correct it, the painters did a great job, used tape, etc." instead of "I hired a drywall specialist to correct it".

I'll take a look at the drywall and see if there is any give, but I don't remember it moving much when I inspected it a few weeks ago although I didn't apply that much pressure.

I think I am going to try my method and see how it works.

Speaking of that, I have noticed in all of my paining adventures that the way the house is framed, there isn't always a stud directly behind corners like that. There will be one at the top of the wall of course, but on the ceiling part it's just dead space. You will have a stud every 16 inches but in between two studs is where you may have that movement. Most times when we see reoccurring drywall issues, it's on vaulted areas or areas that are not 90° angles .

There might be many reasons but there is 90% chance it will
be one of the 3 below.

1. Do you have rafter vents in the attic? Those are
   polystyrene foam panels
   installed between rafters. They allow air movement from soffit to your attic. If
   they are not there, you are getting moisture and tape will fall off each time.
   Drywall guys will not help here. Just look in the attic and see if you have
   them between rafters, it’s going to be either pink or yellow, can’t miss them.
2. Same thing as Brushworks mentioned, drywall panel
   not screwed correctly. Just push on it and if moves, you know the answer.
3. When drywall was installed, it was installed too
   tight on the seam, now when walls and the roof work with temp and humidity
   changes, panels push each other and crack. That would be easy fix, just pull
   old tape, cut pieces of drywall out and re-tape.

Wow - awesome response, thank you!
I looked into the rafter vents previously. I do not have rafter vents and because of the way my attic is finished which is butting against the rafters (I still have unfinished attic space and can get up there to check), I was told that installing them would be a significant project.

I don't think they are too tight because I believe the separation during winter months is what's causing the tape to "pop".

Without seeing in person hard to
tell but I am almost positive we found the answer. If it happens in winter, it’s
not due to a movement but moisture. When tape falls off like in your case, it’s
because of the moisture most of the time. Moisture collects in the winter as
your home is heated up and it’s cold outside.

In regards to the project size,
that is not a huge deal. They cost about $1.80 per two at HD or Lowe’s. All you
have to do is move insulation away, slide it in and put insulation back. Make
sure they go all the way down. Not hard just “crappy” job.

Cut it out. Find out if there is anything supporting the drywall. It could just be floating. Use some scrap pine to make a good backing for your new drywall.