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abigailbw

Recommendations? A vine for a large pine snag

9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago

Good evening,

I've enjoyed and learned from the posts in this forum for several years, but this is my first time posting. Sadly, today we had one of three very large white pines tree taken down in our backyard. The tree leaned over our house and had a very large hole in the main trunk. For years, the tree was inhabited by honeybees and I resisted cutting it down for that reason. The bees do not appear to have made it through the winter and my husband and I decided it was time. Over the winter, Pileated woodpeckers started to peck large holes in the upper portion of the trunk that leaned the worst. We are bird lovers and appreciate the woodpeckers, but this was further indication that the tree was compromised. Anyway, for the bees, and bugs, and birds we decided to leave a good portion of the trunk standing. We also cut out a buckthorn (invasive) that was adjacent to the tree. Around the trunk are some peonys that came with the house. They are beautiful... for about a week, maybe two if there's no rain. They are healthy and can stay. I am going to replace the buckthorn with a Serviceberry (Amelanchier sp.), widen out the bed a little, make it not so round, and edge it with a gap so it's tidier and the lawn doesn't creep in.

The reason for the post is that I was thinking about some type of vine to train up the left side of the trunk. I favor plants that have 3- or 4-season interest, especially if they are attractive to birds. The only hard rule is that they are not invasive. A seedling here or there is not a big deal, and I can deal with some suckering, I just don't want to burden the neighbors or the woodland!

We are seacoast NH, 6a/5b, area is full or near-full sun. The "after" photo below looking at the east side of the tree. Further east into the yard is a low, wet spot that is wet in spring or after rain, the property slopes up from there and the west side of the tree tends to be very dry. Our soil is heavy clay in most places, but there may have had some other soil brought in around this area in the past, maybe when the former owner planted the peonies. The soil here is slightly sandy, dry silty, and maybe low nutrient. It's been naturally "mulched" with pine needles (from the tree).

Any ideas? I want to break up the stark edge of that thicker trunk and help it to not look "bleak" while sheltering. The height is 20 or 25 feet. It will need to be something hardy, as I will only be able to excavate so large of a planting hole amidst the pine roots. See below, before and after, from the tree operation. The right hand trunk stayed as-is in the picture, the left hand trunk was shortened to the height of the climber. The photo with the dogs shows the bed last fall, buckthorn on the SE side of the tree. The "before" is looking east (west side of tree), yesterday evening. The tree is to the left.

Comments (9)

  • 9 years ago

    So glad you've joined the discussion, Abigail! IME the pine may rot sooner than some other types of trees, especially if the pileateds continue to pull chunks out of it, so you may find in 10 years or so that it's really crumbling. One vine that does well on tree trunks is climbing hydrangea, but it takes 5 years or so to get going and start blooming IME so I am not sure if it will be a good choice for your soon-to-be-crumbling trunks. Virginia creeper (a native) has berries for the birds, and since you mow the lawn around it, its tendency to sucker should be kept under control by the mowing. Both these plants climb by clinging with adventitious roots or holdfasts, both of which will cling to a broad surface link a tree trunk. VA creeper has lovely red fall color.

    Twining vines will want supports attached to the tree trunk to allow them to climb. Lonicera sempervirens is a native honeysuckle that the hummingbirds like. It twines its stems around supports, and there are several different selections available. Clematis twine their leaf stems (petioles) and come in a wide range of flower types (large or small open flowers or bells) and various colors. Insects like my bell clematis flowers, but I don't see a lot of insects on the more open clematis flowers.

    Avoid Euonymus since they can be invasive, and though it's a native with berries the birds enjoy, I assume you don't want poison ivy!

  • 9 years ago

    I have no recommendations for vines (not really knowing enough about them) but I enjoyed your photos. That was a grand old tree, and I love that you left the trunk. I thought that I was the only one to ever do that.

    I posted a photo biography of our quaking aspen that went the same way as your lovely old pine:

    http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/3767068/m=23/the-lifetime-of-a-quaking-aspen-tree-in-pictures

    I hope you post more photos when you find a suitable vine to cover the trunk. Will you also be planting a replacement pine?

  • 9 years ago

    Grape?

  • 9 years ago

    If you decide on Margarita, let me know - I'll give you mine. It is really too cold here for it so it never blooms, but it hasn't died yet. I travel to Durham for work, so we could probably find a spot to meet up.

  • 9 years ago

    Babs, just curious about why your Margarita doesn't bloom. Does it even form buds? Mine are just showing small flower buds, and in a few weeks will be in full bloom. The fact that yours survives is encouraging though. Does it stay green throughout winter there?


  • 9 years ago

    No, Bill, it really doesn't stay green through the winter. I planted it against the uninsulated foundation, figuring warm granite would help it out when combined with snow cover, but it just starts getting growing after being knocked back hard each winter when it gets cold again. So in October it will have reached a couple of feet, but then winter comes, and it's back to ground level by spring. It might be fine in a true 5a and probably has few issues in 5b and 6a, but it really limps along here. I was somewhat overly optimistic, but I figured if I didn't try, I'd never know. It's probably an issue of how cold it stays for how long here. It's perfectly common for it to stay below zero for a week or so most winters, and most winters it reaches within 3 degrees over or under -20 for at least a night or two, though this winter was surprisingly warm. I've considered trying it in a pot.

  • 9 years ago

    I have a 10 year old climbing hydrangea growing on an very tall dead ash with multiple trunks. No way was I going to take down a vine that took about 5 years to bloom and several more to reallly head up the trunk. Theash had been dying for years but when the branches starting falling off in high winds it was time for it to go.

  • 9 years ago

    Babs, it's great that you tried, but of course your zone really is too cold for "Margarita", as it's usually only rated to zone 6, or maybe 5b. I "push" a lot of plants even here in 6B/7A, but there are consequences. This year my camellias took quite a hit. I am pruning back the biggest "April Blush" from about 7 feet high down to at least 4 feet. I will have to prune back dead wood on the others as well, but I know they will all grow back. Still, there was significant damage, and nearly every bud was killed, so no flowers this year. I think the 9 below zero on Valentine's Day was one problem, but even more so was the very mild weather that persisted all through the fall and right into January. Then, the "real" winter weather came in all at once, and the plants didn't have a chance to adapt. Strangely, my gardenia "Frostproof" only suffered some damage, but 75% of it is green and looks fine. The southern evergreen magnolia "Bracken's Brown Beauty" is totally unharmed. Go figure!


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